Ingredients in Skincare

Cholesterol

Cholesterol

Cholesterol is a fatty acid which occurs naturally in the skin’s lipid barrier. Applying cholesterol topically supports the skin barrier, reducing trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), and maintaining healthy skin functioning. Strengthening this lipid barrier also leads to improved skin hydration, which in turn leads to smoother, plumper, younger-looking skin. cholesterol is in the class of essential lipids, it can be found on ingredient lists as caprooyl phytosphingosine, caprooyl sphingosine, glycolipids, glycoproteins, glycosphingolipids, lecithin, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, phospholipids and phytosphingosine.

Dioic Acid

Octadecenedioic Acid

Dioic acid is a naturally-occurring acid found in plant and animal fats/oils. It is used in skincare for its ability to regulate sebum production in the skin, as well as its antibacterial action against acne-causing C. Acnes bacteria. It has also been shown to visibly reduce hyperpigmentation, with results being comparable to that of hydroquinone (the gold standard prescription for treating hyperpigmentation).

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine is a broad-spectrum synthetic (or chemical) UV filter, protecting across the whole UVA and UVB wavelength range (280-400 nm). Others in the class of synthetic filters include butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyl triazone, homosalate, octinoxate, octisalate, octocrylene and triazine diethyl butamidotriazone.

Zinc Gluconate

Zinc Gluconate

Zinc gluconate is known to have antibacterial effects, and is used in skincare as a preservative to protect the user from harmful bacteria exposure, as well as potential imparting some anti-blemish effects via its antibacterial activity. Zinc is a family of ingredients that can also be found on ingredients lists as zinc pca, zinc sulfate and zinc sulphate.

Centella Asiatica

Centella Asiatica

Centella asiatica promotes wound healing and skin repair, helping to accelerate the recovery process. It exhibits anti-inflammatory effects, reducing redness, irritation, and inflammation and provides soothing and calming benefits, making it beneficial for sensitive or compromised skin.

Yerba Mate Extract

Yerba Mate Extract

Yerba Mate Extract is derived from the leaves of the Ilex paraguariensis plant, native to South America. In skincare, it is used for its potential antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin-soothing properties. It contains various natural compounds, including polyphenols, xanthines (such as caffeine), and vitamins, which contribute to its skincare benefits.

Bisabolol

Bisabolol

Bisabolol is a naturally-occurring active found in the chamomile plant, although it can also be created synthetically. Its key properties are as an anti-inflammatory and soothing agent, with some studies also showing it to have a brightening effect on the skin. Bisabolol is a rich source of panthenol (vitamin B5), which acts as a humectant, meaning it draws water molecules towards it to plump and hydrate the area. Studies have also shown that bisabolol can enhance the penetration of other actives into the skin, so is great when used in combination with other actives designed to work at the basal layer of the epidermis, or in fact the dermis.

Gluconolactone

Gluconolactone is a poly hydroxy acid (PHA). PHAs work by gently dissolving the keratin that binds our outermost layer of skin cells, encouraging the natural exfoliation process of the skin, leading to smoother, clearer skin. This process also encourages new skin cell generation in the basal layer of the epidermis, a process which naturally slows with age, so with repeated use this can have an overall anti-ageing effect on the skin. Gluconolactone has also been shown to inhibit the enzyme elastase, which breaks down elastin in the skin (an essential protein produced by the fibroblasts), leading to sagging of the skin. PHAs are much larger in molecular weight vs AHAs so they cannot penetrate the skin as fast or as far, which therefore makes more gentle & suitable for more sensitive skin types, including those with rosacea-prone skin. Gluconolactone is also especially good for drier skin types as it also has natural humectant qualities, meaning it draws water towards it, hydrating the skin from within. Gluconolactone is in a class of polyhydroxy acid ingredients also known by lactobionic acid, and maltobionic acid.

Arbutin

Arbutin

Arbutin, also known as alpha arbutin, can be derived from the bearberry plant, or made synthetically, and is used in skincare to lighten dark spots. It works by breaking down in the body into hydroquinone, which can inhibit tyrosinase, an enzyme responsible for producing melanin. It is one of the most well-researched actives for lightening pigmentation, with better skin tolerability vs. prescription hydroquinone.

Willow Bark Extract

Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract

Willow bark contains naturally-occurring salicylic acid. Salicylic acid works as an exfoliating acid to dissolve the keratin that binds the outermost layers of the skin, encouraging the natural exfoliation process of the skin. Due to its oil-soluble form, salicylic acid can penetrate inside the pore, to clear out dead skin cell build up and prevent comedones (blocked pores) from occurring, or acne-causing bacteria to overpopulate within the pore. This C. Acnes bacteria is anaerobic so needs an oxygen-free environment to thrive, and thus require a pore to be blocked.

Aquagenium

Aquagenium

A Bioderma exclusive ingredient, which is a blend of niacinamide and apple extract, which works to stimulate the expression of aquaporins (proteins which are responsible for water transfer between cells). Aquagenium works to stimulate the movement of water in order to deliver deep hydration to the skin.

Anti-Ageing Peptides

Many peptides function as anti-ageing ingredients in skincare, due to their ability to fit specific receptors in the body to trigger anti-ageing responses. This includes mechanisms like collagen production, cell regeneration or even blocking muscle contractions to smooth expression lines. Peptides are a class of ingredients also found on ingredients lists as acetyl hexapeptide, acetyl tetrapeptide, acetylarginyltryptophyl diphenylglycine, arginine/lysine polypeptide, azelaoyl bis-dipeptide, copper heptapeptide-14 pantothenate, dipeptide, dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, ferric hexapeptide, heptapeptide-15, palmitate, myristol hexapeptide, myristol pentapeptide, myristoyl nonapeptide, myristoyl pentapeptide, oligopeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl decapeptide, palmitoyl heptapeptide, palmitoyl hexapeptide, palmitoyl nonapeptide, palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl pentapeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, pentapeptide, sh-oligopeptide, tetrapeptide and copper palmitoyl heptapeptide.

Beta Glucan

Beta-Glucan

Beta Glucans are polysaccharides found naturally in oats, fungi, seaweed and yeast. It is best known for its skin-soothing properties, showing excellent effects at reducing redness and other symptoms of sensitive skin. They do this via barrier-supporting properties, as they form a film on the skin’s surface to offer protection against daily environmental stressors, which can aggravate sensitive skin. They also stimulate macrophage function in the body (immune cells which fight invading bacteria), so offer added benefit to those with already compromised skin barriers more susceptible to bacterial infection, for example eczema-prone or drier skin types. Their polysaccharide nature makes them an effective humectant, meaning they can draw water molecules towards them to plump and hydrate the area.

Amino Acids

Amino Acids are the small building blocks that make up peptides, and proteins. Each amino acid has a unique structure, and as such plays a specific role within the body. There are around 20 different types considered to be most important for human health. Amino acids are a class of ingredients. They can also be found on ingredients lists as acetyl glucosamine, acetyl tyrosinamide, alanine, arginine, arginine hcl, arginine pca, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, lysine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine and valine and yeast amino acids.

Acetyl Glucosamine

Acetyl Glucosamine

Acetyl Glucosamine is an amino acid sugar. It increases hyaluronic acid production in the skin, repairs sun damage, improves skin tone & hydration, and reduces the appearance of wrinkles. Amino acids are a class of ingredients. They can also be found on ingredients lists as acetyl tyrosinamide, alanine, arginine, arginine hcl, arginine pca, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, lysine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine and valine and yeast amino acids.