Ingredients in Skincare

Ceramides

Ceramides

Ceramides are a class of ingredients, which includes ceramide ap, ceramide 3, ceramide eop, ceramide eos, ceramide ng, ceramide np, ceramide ns and ceramide 6-ll. Their function is to hold the skin cells together by creating a barrier against water-loss from the inside-out, and external aggressors from the outside-in. They make up almost 50% of our skins composition, but they can be depleted by UV, free radicals & pollution, and their production also naturally slows with age. Applying ceramides topically can increase the levels of ceramides in the epidermis, and therefore supports the natural healthy functioning of the skin.

Chemical UV Filters

Chemical UV filters are a family of ingredients also known as bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyl triazone, homosalate, octinoxate, octisalate, octocrylene and triazine diethyl butamidotriazone. They work by absorbing UVB light in the outer layers of the epidermis, then converting it into heat (to neutralise the energy which otherwise can lead to cell damage), and scattering it away from the body.

Willow Bark Extract

Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract

Willow bark contains naturally-occurring salicylic acid. Salicylic acid works as an exfoliating acid to dissolve the keratin that binds the outermost layers of the skin, encouraging the natural exfoliation process of the skin. Due to its oil-soluble form, salicylic acid can penetrate inside the pore, to clear out dead skin cell build up and prevent comedones (blocked pores) from occurring, or acne-causing bacteria to overpopulate within the pore. This C. Acnes bacteria is anaerobic so needs an oxygen-free environment to thrive, and thus require a pore to be blocked.

Meadowfoam Seed Oil

Meadowfoam seed oil is a luxurious and lightweight oil derived from the seeds of the meadowfoam plant (Limnanthes alba). In skincare, it is used for its excellent moisturizing, nourishing, and skin-protecting properties.

Palmitoyl Glycine

Palmitoyl Glycine

A key amino acid in the formation of collagen, this ingredient works to increase microcirculation, improving oxygen flow to the skin, as well as reducing inflammation to result in firmer skin and reduced wrinkle visibility.

Alanine

Alanine

Amino acids like Alanine are the small building blocks that make up peptides, and proteins. Alanine is part of a class of Amino Acids. They can also be found on ingredients lists as acetyl glucosamine, acetyl tyrosinamide, arginine, arginine hcl, arginine pca, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, lysine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine and valine and yeast amino acids.

Acetyl Tetrapeptide

Acetyl Tetrapeptide

Acetyl tetrapeptide is a string of peptides used in skincare products to reduce the appearance of wrinkles brought on by repeated facial expressions. It is in a class of ingredients also found on ingredients lists as acetylarginyltryptophyl diphenylglycine, acetyl tetrapeptide, arginine/lysine polypeptide, azelaoyl bis-dipeptide, copper heptapeptide-14 pantothenate, dipeptide, dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, ferric hexapeptide, heptapeptide-15, palmitate, myristol hexapeptide, myristol pentapeptide, myristoyl nonapeptide, myristoyl pentapeptide, oligopeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl decapeptide, palmitoyl heptapeptide, palmitoyl hexapeptide, palmitoyl nonapeptide, palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl pentapeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, pentapeptide, sh-oligopeptide, tetrapeptide and copper palmitoyl heptapeptide.

Dioic Acid

Octadecenedioic Acid

Dioic acid is a naturally-occurring acid found in plant and animal fats/oils. It is used in skincare for its ability to regulate sebum production in the skin, as well as its antibacterial action against acne-causing C. Acnes bacteria. It has also been shown to visibly reduce hyperpigmentation, with results being comparable to that of hydroquinone (the gold standard prescription for treating hyperpigmentation).

Glyceryl Glucoside

Glyceryl Glucoside is used in skincare for its hydrating abilities. It works by stimulating the production of Aquaporin 3, a natural substance found in the epidermis to regulate the movement of water between cells. An increased level of Aquaporin 3 in the skin results in improved hydration throughout the surface, and deeper layers, of the skin.

Ahnfeltia Concinna Extract

Ahnfeltia Concinna Extract

Ahnfeltia concinna extract, or red marine algae extract, is an algae which provides skin soothing and antioxidant properties for the skin. Being a polysaccharide, it is also an excellent thickener when used in formulations a has great humectant properties, able to draw and bind water to the areas it is applied. It is in the class of Algae Extract which also include, alaria esculenta extract, algae exopolysaccharides, algae extract, algin, alteromonas ferment extract, ascophyllum nodosum extract, asparagopsis armata extract, chlorella protothecoides, chlorella vulgaris extract, dunaliella salina (green algae) extract, hydrolyzed f-fucoidan, laminaria ochroleuca (kelp) extract, macrocystis pyrifera (kelp) extract, and marine extract.

Squalane

Squalane

Squalane is a natural substance usually derived from olives. It is structurally very similar to our skin’s own sebum, so is a great ingredient to support our own natural skin processes. In drier skin, which is naturally lacking in natural sebum, it helps to support the skin barrier to prevent water loss, which results in more hydrated, smooth and plump skin. Due to its sebum-mimicking structure, it is non-comedogenic, meaning it won't cause breakouts, so is also suitable for oily and acne-prone skin. It can be a great option to reduce any over-stimulation of the sebaceous glands, which can occur with excess cleansing (and make breakouts worse). It also works to support the skin barrier to combat any drying effects caused by ingredients commonly associated with acne treatment, so is a great ingredient for all skin types.

Lactic Acid

Lactic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), which occurs naturally in the body, as well as being found in dairy products, but is typically derived synthetically for cosmetics today. AHAs work by dissolving the keratin binding the outermost layer of skin cells, speeding up the skin’s natural exfoliation process. This leads to smoother, brighter, clearer skin, whilst reducing skin discolouration & fine lines/wrinkles with continued use. it is a family of ingredients also seen on ingredients lists as potassium lactate.

Centella Asiatica

Centella Asiatica

Centella asiatica promotes wound healing and skin repair, helping to accelerate the recovery process. It exhibits anti-inflammatory effects, reducing redness, irritation, and inflammation and provides soothing and calming benefits, making it beneficial for sensitive or compromised skin.

Polyhydroxy Acids

Polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) work by gently dissolving the keratin that binds our outermost layer of skin cells, encouraging the natural exfoliation process of the skin, leading to smoother, clearer skin. This process also encourages new skin cell generation in the basal layer of the epidermis and with repeated use this can have an overall anti-ageing effect on the skin. PHAs are much larger in molecular weight vs AHAs so they cannot penetrate the skin as fast or as far, which therefore makes more gentle & suitable for more sensitive skin types, including those with rosacea-prone skin. Gluconolactone is also especially good for drier skin types as it also has natural humectant qualities, meaning it draws water towards it, hydrating the skin from within. Polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) are a class of ingredients also known by gluconolactone, lactobionic acid, lactobionic acid (pha) and maltobionic acid.

Spent Grain Wax

Spent Grain Wax

Spent Grain Wax is a natural wax derived from the spent grains of malted barley, typically leftover from the brewing process in beer production. In skincare, it is used for its potential emollient, moisturizing, and skin-conditioning properties.