Ingredients in Skincare

Squalane

Squalane

Squalane is a natural substance usually derived from olives. It is structurally very similar to our skin’s own sebum, so is a great ingredient to support our own natural skin processes. In drier skin, which is naturally lacking in natural sebum, it helps to support the skin barrier to prevent water loss, which results in more hydrated, smooth and plump skin. Due to its sebum-mimicking structure, it is non-comedogenic, meaning it won't cause breakouts, so is also suitable for oily and acne-prone skin. It can be a great option to reduce any over-stimulation of the sebaceous glands, which can occur with excess cleansing (and make breakouts worse). It also works to support the skin barrier to combat any drying effects caused by ingredients commonly associated with acne treatment, so is a great ingredient for all skin types.

Ceramides

Ceramides

Ceramides are a class of ingredients, which includes ceramide ap, ceramide 3, ceramide eop, ceramide eos, ceramide ng, ceramide np, ceramide ns and ceramide 6-ll. Their function is to hold the skin cells together by creating a barrier against water-loss from the inside-out, and external aggressors from the outside-in. They make up almost 50% of our skins composition, but they can be depleted by UV, free radicals & pollution, and their production also naturally slows with age. Applying ceramides topically can increase the levels of ceramides in the epidermis, and therefore supports the natural healthy functioning of the skin.

Glycerin

Glycerin is a humectant present in all natural lipids. It works to attract water molecules towards it, plumping & hydrating the applied area, resulting in smooth, soft, hydrated skin. It is one of the most widely used humectants in skincare, due to its high performance and broad availability (making it very cost-effective). Recent research has shown that its ability to penetrate the layers of the skin is superior to that of low molecular weight hyaluronic acid, making it a brilliant choice for overall skin hydration, and suitable for all skin types.

Algae Exopolysaccharides

Algae Exopolysaccharides

Exopolysaccharides (EPS) are phytochemicals produced by Algae to protect from external stressors: UV radiation, oxidation (from free radicals) and temperature, so these provide skin-protecting benefits in skincare. Being a polysaccharide, this also offers humectant qualities, meaning it can draw water to it, plumping & hydrating the area it is applied to. It is in the class of Algae Extract which also include ahnfeltia concinna extract, alaria esculenta extract, algae extract, algin, alteromonas ferment extract, ascophyllum nodosum extract, asparagopsis armata extract, chlorella protothecoides, chlorella vulgaris extract, dunaliella salina (green algae) extract, hydrolyzed f-fucoidan, laminaria ochroleuca (kelp) extract, macrocystis pyrifera (kelp) extract, and marine extract.

Willow Bark Extract

Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract

Willow bark contains naturally-occurring salicylic acid. Salicylic acid works as an exfoliating acid to dissolve the keratin that binds the outermost layers of the skin, encouraging the natural exfoliation process of the skin. Due to its oil-soluble form, salicylic acid can penetrate inside the pore, to clear out dead skin cell build up and prevent comedones (blocked pores) from occurring, or acne-causing bacteria to overpopulate within the pore. This C. Acnes bacteria is anaerobic so needs an oxygen-free environment to thrive, and thus require a pore to be blocked.

Acetyl Tetrapeptide

Acetyl Tetrapeptide

Acetyl tetrapeptide is a string of peptides used in skincare products to reduce the appearance of wrinkles brought on by repeated facial expressions. It is in a class of ingredients also found on ingredients lists as acetylarginyltryptophyl diphenylglycine, acetyl tetrapeptide, arginine/lysine polypeptide, azelaoyl bis-dipeptide, copper heptapeptide-14 pantothenate, dipeptide, dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, ferric hexapeptide, heptapeptide-15, palmitate, myristol hexapeptide, myristol pentapeptide, myristoyl nonapeptide, myristoyl pentapeptide, oligopeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl decapeptide, palmitoyl heptapeptide, palmitoyl hexapeptide, palmitoyl nonapeptide, palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl pentapeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, pentapeptide, sh-oligopeptide, tetrapeptide and copper palmitoyl heptapeptide.

Bisabolol

Bisabolol

Bisabolol is a naturally-occurring active found in the chamomile plant, although it can also be created synthetically. Its key properties are as an anti-inflammatory and soothing agent, with some studies also showing it to have a brightening effect on the skin. Bisabolol is a rich source of panthenol (vitamin B5), which acts as a humectant, meaning it draws water molecules towards it to plump and hydrate the area. Studies have also shown that bisabolol can enhance the penetration of other actives into the skin, so is great when used in combination with other actives designed to work at the basal layer of the epidermis, or in fact the dermis.

Dioic Acid

Octadecenedioic Acid

Dioic acid is a naturally-occurring acid found in plant and animal fats/oils. It is used in skincare for its ability to regulate sebum production in the skin, as well as its antibacterial action against acne-causing C. Acnes bacteria. It has also been shown to visibly reduce hyperpigmentation, with results being comparable to that of hydroquinone (the gold standard prescription for treating hyperpigmentation).

Centella Asiatica

Centella Asiatica

Centella asiatica promotes wound healing and skin repair, helping to accelerate the recovery process. It exhibits anti-inflammatory effects, reducing redness, irritation, and inflammation and provides soothing and calming benefits, making it beneficial for sensitive or compromised skin.

Vitamin C

Vitamin C has many skin benefits, including its action as an antioxidant, to neutralise free radicals (reactive molecules with an unpaired electron), preventing them from causing damage to cells within the body. Vitamin C is also involved in the collagen-production process, so provides anti-wrinkle activity through this mechanism. Lastly, Vitamin C inhibits the enzyme tyrosinase, which is involved in melanin-synthesis, and can therefore visibly reduce areas of hyperpigmentation in the skin. Vitamin C is a family of ingredients also known as ascorbic acid, ascorbyl glucoside, ascorbyl palmitate, ethyl ascorbic acid, l-ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate and tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate.

Lactic Acid

Lactic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), which occurs naturally in the body, as well as being found in dairy products, but is typically derived synthetically for cosmetics today. AHAs work by dissolving the keratin binding the outermost layer of skin cells, speeding up the skin’s natural exfoliation process. This leads to smoother, brighter, clearer skin, whilst reducing skin discolouration & fine lines/wrinkles with continued use. it is a family of ingredients also seen on ingredients lists as potassium lactate.

Aquagenium

Aquagenium

A Bioderma exclusive ingredient, which is a blend of niacinamide and apple extract, which works to stimulate the expression of aquaporins (proteins which are responsible for water transfer between cells). Aquagenium works to stimulate the movement of water in order to deliver deep hydration to the skin.

Vitamin E

Vitamin E is a fat-soluble Vitamin contained in many plant oils, or can also be produced synthetically. Vitamin E is found naturally in our own skin, and its main benefit is to offer powerful antioxidant protection against pollution and free radical damage. It also helps to support our skin’s natural lipid barrier, which in turn improves the hydration levels within the epidermis, as water loss through the skin is minimised. Vitamin E is a family of ingredients also known as alpha tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopheryl (vitamin e) acetate, tocopheryl glucoside or tocopheryl linoleate/oleate.

Beta Glucan

Beta-Glucan

Beta Glucans are polysaccharides found naturally in oats, fungi, seaweed and yeast. It is best known for its skin-soothing properties, showing excellent effects at reducing redness and other symptoms of sensitive skin. They do this via barrier-supporting properties, as they form a film on the skin’s surface to offer protection against daily environmental stressors, which can aggravate sensitive skin. They also stimulate macrophage function in the body (immune cells which fight invading bacteria), so offer added benefit to those with already compromised skin barriers more susceptible to bacterial infection, for example eczema-prone or drier skin types. Their polysaccharide nature makes them an effective humectant, meaning they can draw water molecules towards them to plump and hydrate the area.

Anti-Ageing Peptides

Many peptides function as anti-ageing ingredients in skincare, due to their ability to fit specific receptors in the body to trigger anti-ageing responses. This includes mechanisms like collagen production, cell regeneration or even blocking muscle contractions to smooth expression lines. Peptides are a class of ingredients also found on ingredients lists as acetyl hexapeptide, acetyl tetrapeptide, acetylarginyltryptophyl diphenylglycine, arginine/lysine polypeptide, azelaoyl bis-dipeptide, copper heptapeptide-14 pantothenate, dipeptide, dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, ferric hexapeptide, heptapeptide-15, palmitate, myristol hexapeptide, myristol pentapeptide, myristoyl nonapeptide, myristoyl pentapeptide, oligopeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl decapeptide, palmitoyl heptapeptide, palmitoyl hexapeptide, palmitoyl nonapeptide, palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl pentapeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, pentapeptide, sh-oligopeptide, tetrapeptide and copper palmitoyl heptapeptide.