Ingredients in Skincare

Chemical UV Filters

Chemical UV filters are a family of ingredients also known as bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyl triazone, homosalate, octinoxate, octisalate, octocrylene and triazine diethyl butamidotriazone. They work by absorbing UVB light in the outer layers of the epidermis, then converting it into heat (to neutralise the energy which otherwise can lead to cell damage), and scattering it away from the body.

Algae Exopolysaccharides

Algae Exopolysaccharides

Exopolysaccharides (EPS) are phytochemicals produced by Algae to protect from external stressors: UV radiation, oxidation (from free radicals) and temperature, so these provide skin-protecting benefits in skincare. Being a polysaccharide, this also offers humectant qualities, meaning it can draw water to it, plumping & hydrating the area it is applied to. It is in the class of Algae Extract which also include ahnfeltia concinna extract, alaria esculenta extract, algae extract, algin, alteromonas ferment extract, ascophyllum nodosum extract, asparagopsis armata extract, chlorella protothecoides, chlorella vulgaris extract, dunaliella salina (green algae) extract, hydrolyzed f-fucoidan, laminaria ochroleuca (kelp) extract, macrocystis pyrifera (kelp) extract, and marine extract.

Alanine

Alanine

Amino acids like Alanine are the small building blocks that make up peptides, and proteins. Alanine is part of a class of Amino Acids. They can also be found on ingredients lists as acetyl glucosamine, acetyl tyrosinamide, arginine, arginine hcl, arginine pca, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, lysine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine and valine and yeast amino acids.

Zinc Gluconate

Zinc Gluconate

Zinc gluconate is known to have antibacterial effects, and is used in skincare as a preservative to protect the user from harmful bacteria exposure, as well as potential imparting some anti-blemish effects via its antibacterial activity. Zinc is a family of ingredients that can also be found on ingredients lists as zinc pca, zinc sulfate and zinc sulphate.

Copper Peptide

Copper Tripeptide

Copper peptides are a family of ingredients also known as copper tripeptide growth factor, tripeptide and copper peptide. They are used in skincare as an anti-ageing ingredient. As with most peptides, it works by activating a receptor in the skin to perform a certain function, e.g. produce more collagen. Studies have shown copper peptide to have a positive impact on skin density, firmness and depth of fine lines and wrinkles.

Lily Extract

Lilium Candidum Flower Extract

Lily extract is derived from various species of lilies, particularly Lilium candidum (also known as Madonna lily) or Lilium longiflorum. In skincare, lily extract is used for its potential skin-soothing, moisturizing, and brightening properties.

Spent Grain Wax

Spent Grain Wax

Spent Grain Wax is a natural wax derived from the spent grains of malted barley, typically leftover from the brewing process in beer production. In skincare, it is used for its potential emollient, moisturizing, and skin-conditioning properties.

Gluconolactone

Gluconolactone is a poly hydroxy acid (PHA). PHAs work by gently dissolving the keratin that binds our outermost layer of skin cells, encouraging the natural exfoliation process of the skin, leading to smoother, clearer skin. This process also encourages new skin cell generation in the basal layer of the epidermis, a process which naturally slows with age, so with repeated use this can have an overall anti-ageing effect on the skin. Gluconolactone has also been shown to inhibit the enzyme elastase, which breaks down elastin in the skin (an essential protein produced by the fibroblasts), leading to sagging of the skin. PHAs are much larger in molecular weight vs AHAs so they cannot penetrate the skin as fast or as far, which therefore makes more gentle & suitable for more sensitive skin types, including those with rosacea-prone skin. Gluconolactone is also especially good for drier skin types as it also has natural humectant qualities, meaning it draws water towards it, hydrating the skin from within. Gluconolactone is in a class of polyhydroxy acid ingredients also known by lactobionic acid, and maltobionic acid.

Acetyl Tetrapeptide

Acetyl Tetrapeptide

Acetyl tetrapeptide is a string of peptides used in skincare products to reduce the appearance of wrinkles brought on by repeated facial expressions. It is in a class of ingredients also found on ingredients lists as acetylarginyltryptophyl diphenylglycine, acetyl tetrapeptide, arginine/lysine polypeptide, azelaoyl bis-dipeptide, copper heptapeptide-14 pantothenate, dipeptide, dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, ferric hexapeptide, heptapeptide-15, palmitate, myristol hexapeptide, myristol pentapeptide, myristoyl nonapeptide, myristoyl pentapeptide, oligopeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl decapeptide, palmitoyl heptapeptide, palmitoyl hexapeptide, palmitoyl nonapeptide, palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl pentapeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, pentapeptide, sh-oligopeptide, tetrapeptide and copper palmitoyl heptapeptide.

Yerba Mate Extract

Yerba Mate Extract

Yerba Mate Extract is derived from the leaves of the Ilex paraguariensis plant, native to South America. In skincare, it is used for its potential antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin-soothing properties. It contains various natural compounds, including polyphenols, xanthines (such as caffeine), and vitamins, which contribute to its skincare benefits.

Natural Moisturising Factors

They are a substance produced by the body, made up of minerals, lactate, urea, amino acids & humectants, which coats the surface skin cells to keep them moisturised. NMF increases the skin’s ability to retain moisture, which results in more hydrated, plump, smoother skin. Natural moisturising factor (NMF) are a class of ingredients that can also be known by sodium lactate, sodium pca and trehalose.

Glycolic Acid

Glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), derived from sugar cane. AHAs work by dissolving the keratin binding the outermost layer of skin cells, speeding up the skin’s natural exfoliation process. This leads to smoother, brighter, clearer skin, whilst reducing skin discolouration & fine lines/wrinkles with continued use. Glycolic acid has the smallest molecular weight of all the AHAs, meaning it can penetrate the skin quickest, producing the fastest results, but also most likely to cause skin sensitivity, so it is best for those with fairly tolerant skin types.

Mandelic Acid

Mandelic Acid

Mandelic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), derived from bitter almonds. AHAs work by dissolving the keratin binding the outermost layer of skin cells, speeding up the skin’s natural exfoliation process. This leads to smoother, brighter, clearer skin, whilst reducing skin discolouration & fine lines/wrinkles with continued use. Mandelic acid has a larger molecular weight vs. other acids in the AHA category. It is twice the molecular weight of glycolic acid for example (the smallest AHA on the market), so it tends to be better tolerated than smaller AHAs, which penetrate the skin much faster. Research also shows that mandelic acid is particularly effective at improving some forms of pigmentation, compared with other AHAs.

Cholesterol

Cholesterol

Cholesterol is a fatty acid which occurs naturally in the skin’s lipid barrier. Applying cholesterol topically supports the skin barrier, reducing trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), and maintaining healthy skin functioning. Strengthening this lipid barrier also leads to improved skin hydration, which in turn leads to smoother, plumper, younger-looking skin. cholesterol is in the class of essential lipids, it can be found on ingredient lists as caprooyl phytosphingosine, caprooyl sphingosine, glycolipids, glycoproteins, glycosphingolipids, lecithin, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, phospholipids and phytosphingosine.

Apple Stem Cells

Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract

Apple stem cells, also known as malus domestica fruit cell culture extract, occur naturally within plants to help regenerate cells after stress or injury, and studies show this can encourage similar regenerating mechanisms in human skin. Apple stem cells have been shown to increase synthesis of collagen & elastin to achieve visible anti-ageing results in the skin.