Ingredients in Skincare

Copper Peptide

Copper Tripeptide

Copper peptides are a family of ingredients also known as copper tripeptide growth factor, tripeptide and copper peptide. They are used in skincare as an anti-ageing ingredient. As with most peptides, it works by activating a receptor in the skin to perform a certain function, e.g. produce more collagen. Studies have shown copper peptide to have a positive impact on skin density, firmness and depth of fine lines and wrinkles.

Polyhydroxy Acids

Polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) work by gently dissolving the keratin that binds our outermost layer of skin cells, encouraging the natural exfoliation process of the skin, leading to smoother, clearer skin. This process also encourages new skin cell generation in the basal layer of the epidermis and with repeated use this can have an overall anti-ageing effect on the skin. PHAs are much larger in molecular weight vs AHAs so they cannot penetrate the skin as fast or as far, which therefore makes more gentle & suitable for more sensitive skin types, including those with rosacea-prone skin. Gluconolactone is also especially good for drier skin types as it also has natural humectant qualities, meaning it draws water towards it, hydrating the skin from within. Polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) are a class of ingredients also known by gluconolactone, lactobionic acid, lactobionic acid (pha) and maltobionic acid.

Glycolic Acid

Glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), derived from sugar cane. AHAs work by dissolving the keratin binding the outermost layer of skin cells, speeding up the skin’s natural exfoliation process. This leads to smoother, brighter, clearer skin, whilst reducing skin discolouration & fine lines/wrinkles with continued use. Glycolic acid has the smallest molecular weight of all the AHAs, meaning it can penetrate the skin quickest, producing the fastest results, but also most likely to cause skin sensitivity, so it is best for those with fairly tolerant skin types.

Carnosine

Carnosine is a peptide used in skincare as an antioxidant and a soothing agent. Research also shows this also has an effect against glycation (a process which accelerates ageing).

Acetyl Tetrapeptide

Acetyl Tetrapeptide

Acetyl tetrapeptide is a string of peptides used in skincare products to reduce the appearance of wrinkles brought on by repeated facial expressions. It is in a class of ingredients also found on ingredients lists as acetylarginyltryptophyl diphenylglycine, acetyl tetrapeptide, arginine/lysine polypeptide, azelaoyl bis-dipeptide, copper heptapeptide-14 pantothenate, dipeptide, dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, ferric hexapeptide, heptapeptide-15, palmitate, myristol hexapeptide, myristol pentapeptide, myristoyl nonapeptide, myristoyl pentapeptide, oligopeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl decapeptide, palmitoyl heptapeptide, palmitoyl hexapeptide, palmitoyl nonapeptide, palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl pentapeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, pentapeptide, sh-oligopeptide, tetrapeptide and copper palmitoyl heptapeptide.

Arbutin

Arbutin

Arbutin, also known as alpha arbutin, can be derived from the bearberry plant, or made synthetically, and is used in skincare to lighten dark spots. It works by breaking down in the body into hydroquinone, which can inhibit tyrosinase, an enzyme responsible for producing melanin. It is one of the most well-researched actives for lightening pigmentation, with better skin tolerability vs. prescription hydroquinone.

Zinc Gluconate

Zinc Gluconate

Zinc gluconate is known to have antibacterial effects, and is used in skincare as a preservative to protect the user from harmful bacteria exposure, as well as potential imparting some anti-blemish effects via its antibacterial activity. Zinc is a family of ingredients that can also be found on ingredients lists as zinc pca, zinc sulfate and zinc sulphate.

Acetyl Tyrosinamide

N-Acetyl L-Tyrosinamide

Acetyl tyrosinamide is an effective moisturising ingredient that also has been shown to be effective in evening out the skin tone and reducing hyperpigmentation. Amino acids are a class of ingredients. They can also be found on ingredients lists as acetyl glucosamine, alanine, arginine, arginine hcl, arginine pca, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, lysine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine and valine and yeast amino acids.

Arginine/Lysine Polypeptide

Arginine/Lysine Polypeptide

Arginine/lysine polypeptide is a skin care ingredient that slows down aging processes in the skin and boosts regeneration. It is in a class of ingredients also found on ingredients lists as acetyl hexapeptide, acetyl tetrapeptide, acetylarginyltryptophyl diphenylglycine, azelaoyl bis-dipeptide, copper heptapeptide-14 pantothenate, dipeptide, dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, ferric hexapeptide, heptapeptide-15, palmitate, myristol hexapeptide, myristol pentapeptide, myristoyl nonapeptide, myristoyl pentapeptide, oligopeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl decapeptide, palmitoyl heptapeptide, palmitoyl hexapeptide, palmitoyl nonapeptide, palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl pentapeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, pentapeptide, sh-oligopeptide, tetrapeptide and copper palmitoyl heptapeptide.

Acetyl Glucosamine

Acetyl Glucosamine

Acetyl Glucosamine is an amino acid sugar. It increases hyaluronic acid production in the skin, repairs sun damage, improves skin tone & hydration, and reduces the appearance of wrinkles. Amino acids are a class of ingredients. They can also be found on ingredients lists as acetyl tyrosinamide, alanine, arginine, arginine hcl, arginine pca, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, lysine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine and valine and yeast amino acids.

Niacinamide

Niacinamide, also known as Vitamin B3 and Nicotinamide, has many skincare benefits. Firstly, it regulates sebum production in the skin, which in turn reduces blemishes and visible pore size. It also reduces facial redness by improving microcirculation, which means moving the blood inside the capillaries away from the face to reduce visible redness. It also has the ability to strengthen the natural lipid barrier of the skin by encouraging ceramide production (the building blocks which seal our skin cells together), which in turn increases the hydration within the epidermis. Lastly, niacinamide works to help reduce hyperpigmentation by blocking melanin from being deposited on the skin cells.

Beta Glucan

Beta-Glucan

Beta Glucans are polysaccharides found naturally in oats, fungi, seaweed and yeast. It is best known for its skin-soothing properties, showing excellent effects at reducing redness and other symptoms of sensitive skin. They do this via barrier-supporting properties, as they form a film on the skin’s surface to offer protection against daily environmental stressors, which can aggravate sensitive skin. They also stimulate macrophage function in the body (immune cells which fight invading bacteria), so offer added benefit to those with already compromised skin barriers more susceptible to bacterial infection, for example eczema-prone or drier skin types. Their polysaccharide nature makes them an effective humectant, meaning they can draw water molecules towards them to plump and hydrate the area.

Ceramides

Ceramides

Ceramides are a class of ingredients, which includes ceramide ap, ceramide 3, ceramide eop, ceramide eos, ceramide ng, ceramide np, ceramide ns and ceramide 6-ll. Their function is to hold the skin cells together by creating a barrier against water-loss from the inside-out, and external aggressors from the outside-in. They make up almost 50% of our skins composition, but they can be depleted by UV, free radicals & pollution, and their production also naturally slows with age. Applying ceramides topically can increase the levels of ceramides in the epidermis, and therefore supports the natural healthy functioning of the skin.

Aquagenium

Aquagenium

A Bioderma exclusive ingredient, which is a blend of niacinamide and apple extract, which works to stimulate the expression of aquaporins (proteins which are responsible for water transfer between cells). Aquagenium works to stimulate the movement of water in order to deliver deep hydration to the skin.

Natural Moisturising Factors

They are a substance produced by the body, made up of minerals, lactate, urea, amino acids & humectants, which coats the surface skin cells to keep them moisturised. NMF increases the skin’s ability to retain moisture, which results in more hydrated, plump, smoother skin. Natural moisturising factor (NMF) are a class of ingredients that can also be known by sodium lactate, sodium pca and trehalose.