Ingredients in Skincare

Urea

Urea is humectant ingredient found in the skin’s natural moisturising factor (NMF), making up around 7-8% of the total composition. Its humectant properties mean it can bind to water molecules in the atmosphere, drawing them to it, and in turn plumping and hydrating the skin. Research also shows that Urea has a mild exfoliating action on the skin, encouraging the removal of dead cells which results in smoother, healthier, more hydrated skin.

Green Tea

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Green Tea is a natural plant extract, rich in polyphenols, also known as catechins. Green Tea is particularly high in the catechin Epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG), which is a powerful antioxidant, meaning it can neutralise free radicals to prevent them causing damage within the skin.

Algae Exopolysaccharides

Algae Exopolysaccharides

Exopolysaccharides (EPS) are phytochemicals produced by Algae to protect from external stressors: UV radiation, oxidation (from free radicals) and temperature, so these provide skin-protecting benefits in skincare. Being a polysaccharide, this also offers humectant qualities, meaning it can draw water to it, plumping & hydrating the area it is applied to. It is in the class of Algae Extract which also include ahnfeltia concinna extract, alaria esculenta extract, algae extract, algin, alteromonas ferment extract, ascophyllum nodosum extract, asparagopsis armata extract, chlorella protothecoides, chlorella vulgaris extract, dunaliella salina (green algae) extract, hydrolyzed f-fucoidan, laminaria ochroleuca (kelp) extract, macrocystis pyrifera (kelp) extract, and marine extract.

Prebiotics

Prebiotics, can be classed as a food source that encourages the growth of good bacteria on the skin. The microbiome (the ecosystem of bacteria on the skin) is a relatively new discovery and we are learning that this is linked to many different aspects of our health, mood and appearance. Prebiotics are a class of ingredients which can be found on ingredients lists as alpha-glucan oligosaccharide, fructooligosaccharides, lactobacillus extract filtrate, rhamnose and saccharomyces cerevisiae (yeast) extract.

Cholesterol

Cholesterol

Cholesterol is a fatty acid which occurs naturally in the skin’s lipid barrier. Applying cholesterol topically supports the skin barrier, reducing trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), and maintaining healthy skin functioning. Strengthening this lipid barrier also leads to improved skin hydration, which in turn leads to smoother, plumper, younger-looking skin. cholesterol is in the class of essential lipids, it can be found on ingredient lists as caprooyl phytosphingosine, caprooyl sphingosine, glycolipids, glycoproteins, glycosphingolipids, lecithin, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, phospholipids and phytosphingosine.

Zinc

Zinc

It is known to regulate sebum production, as well as inhibit the growth of the C. Acnes bacteria to improve acne symptoms. Zinc is a family of ingredients also known as zinc gluconate, zinc pca, zinc sulfate and zinc sulphate.

Essential Lipids

The outer layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, has a multilamellar structure (essentially a fine membrane), made up of lipids (fats), to form a non-permeable barrier. This keeps water inside the skin, and acts as the first defense against external aggressors. Using lipids in skincare helps to support the natural skin barrier, preventing water-loss to keep skin hydrated and balanced. Essential lipids are a class of ingredients also known as caprooyl phytosphingosine, caprooyl sphingosine, cholesterol, glycolipids, glycoproteins, glycosphingolipids, lecithin, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, phospholipids and phytosphingosine.

Palmitoyl Glycine

Palmitoyl Glycine

A key amino acid in the formation of collagen, this ingredient works to increase microcirculation, improving oxygen flow to the skin, as well as reducing inflammation to result in firmer skin and reduced wrinkle visibility.

Chemical UV Filters

Chemical UV filters are a family of ingredients also known as bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyl triazone, homosalate, octinoxate, octisalate, octocrylene and triazine diethyl butamidotriazone. They work by absorbing UVB light in the outer layers of the epidermis, then converting it into heat (to neutralise the energy which otherwise can lead to cell damage), and scattering it away from the body.

Alanine

Alanine

Amino acids like Alanine are the small building blocks that make up peptides, and proteins. Alanine is part of a class of Amino Acids. They can also be found on ingredients lists as acetyl glucosamine, acetyl tyrosinamide, arginine, arginine hcl, arginine pca, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, lysine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine and valine and yeast amino acids.

Willow Bark Extract

Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract

Willow bark contains naturally-occurring salicylic acid. Salicylic acid works as an exfoliating acid to dissolve the keratin that binds the outermost layers of the skin, encouraging the natural exfoliation process of the skin. Due to its oil-soluble form, salicylic acid can penetrate inside the pore, to clear out dead skin cell build up and prevent comedones (blocked pores) from occurring, or acne-causing bacteria to overpopulate within the pore. This C. Acnes bacteria is anaerobic so needs an oxygen-free environment to thrive, and thus require a pore to be blocked.

Natural Moisturising Factors

They are a substance produced by the body, made up of minerals, lactate, urea, amino acids & humectants, which coats the surface skin cells to keep them moisturised. NMF increases the skin’s ability to retain moisture, which results in more hydrated, plump, smoother skin. Natural moisturising factor (NMF) are a class of ingredients that can also be known by sodium lactate, sodium pca and trehalose.

Acetyl Tetrapeptide

Acetyl Tetrapeptide

Acetyl tetrapeptide is a string of peptides used in skincare products to reduce the appearance of wrinkles brought on by repeated facial expressions. It is in a class of ingredients also found on ingredients lists as acetylarginyltryptophyl diphenylglycine, acetyl tetrapeptide, arginine/lysine polypeptide, azelaoyl bis-dipeptide, copper heptapeptide-14 pantothenate, dipeptide, dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, ferric hexapeptide, heptapeptide-15, palmitate, myristol hexapeptide, myristol pentapeptide, myristoyl nonapeptide, myristoyl pentapeptide, oligopeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl decapeptide, palmitoyl heptapeptide, palmitoyl hexapeptide, palmitoyl nonapeptide, palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl pentapeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, pentapeptide, sh-oligopeptide, tetrapeptide and copper palmitoyl heptapeptide.

Mandelic Acid

Mandelic Acid

Mandelic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), derived from bitter almonds. AHAs work by dissolving the keratin binding the outermost layer of skin cells, speeding up the skin’s natural exfoliation process. This leads to smoother, brighter, clearer skin, whilst reducing skin discolouration & fine lines/wrinkles with continued use. Mandelic acid has a larger molecular weight vs. other acids in the AHA category. It is twice the molecular weight of glycolic acid for example (the smallest AHA on the market), so it tends to be better tolerated than smaller AHAs, which penetrate the skin much faster. Research also shows that mandelic acid is particularly effective at improving some forms of pigmentation, compared with other AHAs.

Bisabolol

Bisabolol

Bisabolol is a naturally-occurring active found in the chamomile plant, although it can also be created synthetically. Its key properties are as an anti-inflammatory and soothing agent, with some studies also showing it to have a brightening effect on the skin. Bisabolol is a rich source of panthenol (vitamin B5), which acts as a humectant, meaning it draws water molecules towards it to plump and hydrate the area. Studies have also shown that bisabolol can enhance the penetration of other actives into the skin, so is great when used in combination with other actives designed to work at the basal layer of the epidermis, or in fact the dermis.