Ingredients in Skincare

Glycolic Acid

Glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), derived from sugar cane. AHAs work by dissolving the keratin binding the outermost layer of skin cells, speeding up the skin’s natural exfoliation process. This leads to smoother, brighter, clearer skin, whilst reducing skin discolouration & fine lines/wrinkles with continued use. Glycolic acid has the smallest molecular weight of all the AHAs, meaning it can penetrate the skin quickest, producing the fastest results, but also most likely to cause skin sensitivity, so it is best for those with fairly tolerant skin types.

Zinc PCA

Zinc PCA

Zinc PCA is a component of the skin’s natural moisturising factor (NMF), which acts as a humectant to draw water to it, and when synthesized with zinc, it can actually improve the efficacy of zinc, by making it more bioavailable and easily-absorbed. Studies have also shown that zinc PCA can inhibit the activity of destructive enzymes within the skin, therefore providing a protective, anti-ageing mechanism to the skin. Zinc is a family of ingredients that can also be found on ingredients lists as zinc gluconate, zinc sulfate and zinc sulphate.

Lily Extract

Lilium Candidum Flower Extract

Lily extract is derived from various species of lilies, particularly Lilium candidum (also known as Madonna lily) or Lilium longiflorum. In skincare, lily extract is used for its potential skin-soothing, moisturizing, and brightening properties.

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane / Avobenzone is a synthetic sunscreen filter used in skin care to protect against damage from UVA light. Other ingredients in the class of synthetic filters include bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyl triazone, homosalate, octinoxate, octisalate, octocrylene and triazine diethyl butamidotriazone.

Mandelic Acid

Mandelic Acid

Mandelic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), derived from bitter almonds. AHAs work by dissolving the keratin binding the outermost layer of skin cells, speeding up the skin’s natural exfoliation process. This leads to smoother, brighter, clearer skin, whilst reducing skin discolouration & fine lines/wrinkles with continued use. Mandelic acid has a larger molecular weight vs. other acids in the AHA category. It is twice the molecular weight of glycolic acid for example (the smallest AHA on the market), so it tends to be better tolerated than smaller AHAs, which penetrate the skin much faster. Research also shows that mandelic acid is particularly effective at improving some forms of pigmentation, compared with other AHAs.

Polyhydroxy Acids

Polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) work by gently dissolving the keratin that binds our outermost layer of skin cells, encouraging the natural exfoliation process of the skin, leading to smoother, clearer skin. This process also encourages new skin cell generation in the basal layer of the epidermis and with repeated use this can have an overall anti-ageing effect on the skin. PHAs are much larger in molecular weight vs AHAs so they cannot penetrate the skin as fast or as far, which therefore makes more gentle & suitable for more sensitive skin types, including those with rosacea-prone skin. Gluconolactone is also especially good for drier skin types as it also has natural humectant qualities, meaning it draws water towards it, hydrating the skin from within. Polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) are a class of ingredients also known by gluconolactone, lactobionic acid, lactobionic acid (pha) and maltobionic acid.

Apple Stem Cells

Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract

Apple stem cells, also known as malus domestica fruit cell culture extract, occur naturally within plants to help regenerate cells after stress or injury, and studies show this can encourage similar regenerating mechanisms in human skin. Apple stem cells have been shown to increase synthesis of collagen & elastin to achieve visible anti-ageing results in the skin.

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine is a broad-spectrum synthetic (or chemical) UV filter, protecting across the whole UVA and UVB wavelength range (280-400 nm). Others in the class of synthetic filters include butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyl triazone, homosalate, octinoxate, octisalate, octocrylene and triazine diethyl butamidotriazone.

Copper Peptide

Copper Tripeptide

Copper peptides are a family of ingredients also known as copper tripeptide growth factor, tripeptide and copper peptide. They are used in skincare as an anti-ageing ingredient. As with most peptides, it works by activating a receptor in the skin to perform a certain function, e.g. produce more collagen. Studies have shown copper peptide to have a positive impact on skin density, firmness and depth of fine lines and wrinkles.

Alanine

Alanine

Amino acids like Alanine are the small building blocks that make up peptides, and proteins. Alanine is part of a class of Amino Acids. They can also be found on ingredients lists as acetyl glucosamine, acetyl tyrosinamide, arginine, arginine hcl, arginine pca, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, lysine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine and valine and yeast amino acids.

Zinc Gluconate

Zinc Gluconate

Zinc gluconate is known to have antibacterial effects, and is used in skincare as a preservative to protect the user from harmful bacteria exposure, as well as potential imparting some anti-blemish effects via its antibacterial activity. Zinc is a family of ingredients that can also be found on ingredients lists as zinc pca, zinc sulfate and zinc sulphate.

Cholesterol

Cholesterol

Cholesterol is a fatty acid which occurs naturally in the skin’s lipid barrier. Applying cholesterol topically supports the skin barrier, reducing trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), and maintaining healthy skin functioning. Strengthening this lipid barrier also leads to improved skin hydration, which in turn leads to smoother, plumper, younger-looking skin. cholesterol is in the class of essential lipids, it can be found on ingredient lists as caprooyl phytosphingosine, caprooyl sphingosine, glycolipids, glycoproteins, glycosphingolipids, lecithin, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, phospholipids and phytosphingosine.

Glycerin

Glycerin is a humectant present in all natural lipids. It works to attract water molecules towards it, plumping & hydrating the applied area, resulting in smooth, soft, hydrated skin. It is one of the most widely used humectants in skincare, due to its high performance and broad availability (making it very cost-effective). Recent research has shown that its ability to penetrate the layers of the skin is superior to that of low molecular weight hyaluronic acid, making it a brilliant choice for overall skin hydration, and suitable for all skin types.

Algae Exopolysaccharides

Algae Exopolysaccharides

Exopolysaccharides (EPS) are phytochemicals produced by Algae to protect from external stressors: UV radiation, oxidation (from free radicals) and temperature, so these provide skin-protecting benefits in skincare. Being a polysaccharide, this also offers humectant qualities, meaning it can draw water to it, plumping & hydrating the area it is applied to. It is in the class of Algae Extract which also include ahnfeltia concinna extract, alaria esculenta extract, algae extract, algin, alteromonas ferment extract, ascophyllum nodosum extract, asparagopsis armata extract, chlorella protothecoides, chlorella vulgaris extract, dunaliella salina (green algae) extract, hydrolyzed f-fucoidan, laminaria ochroleuca (kelp) extract, macrocystis pyrifera (kelp) extract, and marine extract.

Squalane

Squalane

Squalane is a natural substance usually derived from olives. It is structurally very similar to our skin’s own sebum, so is a great ingredient to support our own natural skin processes. In drier skin, which is naturally lacking in natural sebum, it helps to support the skin barrier to prevent water loss, which results in more hydrated, smooth and plump skin. Due to its sebum-mimicking structure, it is non-comedogenic, meaning it won't cause breakouts, so is also suitable for oily and acne-prone skin. It can be a great option to reduce any over-stimulation of the sebaceous glands, which can occur with excess cleansing (and make breakouts worse). It also works to support the skin barrier to combat any drying effects caused by ingredients commonly associated with acne treatment, so is a great ingredient for all skin types.