Ingredients in Skincare

Lactic Acid

Lactic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), which occurs naturally in the body, as well as being found in dairy products, but is typically derived synthetically for cosmetics today. AHAs work by dissolving the keratin binding the outermost layer of skin cells, speeding up the skin’s natural exfoliation process. This leads to smoother, brighter, clearer skin, whilst reducing skin discolouration & fine lines/wrinkles with continued use. it is a family of ingredients also seen on ingredients lists as potassium lactate.

Vitamin E

Vitamin E is a fat-soluble Vitamin contained in many plant oils, or can also be produced synthetically. Vitamin E is found naturally in our own skin, and its main benefit is to offer powerful antioxidant protection against pollution and free radical damage. It also helps to support our skin’s natural lipid barrier, which in turn improves the hydration levels within the epidermis, as water loss through the skin is minimised. Vitamin E is a family of ingredients also known as alpha tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopheryl (vitamin e) acetate, tocopheryl glucoside or tocopheryl linoleate/oleate.

Arbutin

Arbutin

Arbutin, also known as alpha arbutin, can be derived from the bearberry plant, or made synthetically, and is used in skincare to lighten dark spots. It works by breaking down in the body into hydroquinone, which can inhibit tyrosinase, an enzyme responsible for producing melanin. It is one of the most well-researched actives for lightening pigmentation, with better skin tolerability vs. prescription hydroquinone.

Aquagenium

Aquagenium

A Bioderma exclusive ingredient, which is a blend of niacinamide and apple extract, which works to stimulate the expression of aquaporins (proteins which are responsible for water transfer between cells). Aquagenium works to stimulate the movement of water in order to deliver deep hydration to the skin.

Apple Extract

Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract

Apple extract, also known as pyrus malus extract, is used in cosmetics for its antioxidant abilities, as it is very high in polyphenols. This means it is able to help protect the skin from free radical damage, one of the largest external factors which contributes to ageing of the skin (after UV light).

Meadowfoam Seed Oil

Meadowfoam seed oil is a luxurious and lightweight oil derived from the seeds of the meadowfoam plant (Limnanthes alba). In skincare, it is used for its excellent moisturizing, nourishing, and skin-protecting properties.

Vitamin C

Vitamin C has many skin benefits, including its action as an antioxidant, to neutralise free radicals (reactive molecules with an unpaired electron), preventing them from causing damage to cells within the body. Vitamin C is also involved in the collagen-production process, so provides anti-wrinkle activity through this mechanism. Lastly, Vitamin C inhibits the enzyme tyrosinase, which is involved in melanin-synthesis, and can therefore visibly reduce areas of hyperpigmentation in the skin. Vitamin C is a family of ingredients also known as ascorbic acid, ascorbyl glucoside, ascorbyl palmitate, ethyl ascorbic acid, l-ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate and tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate.

Spent Grain Wax

Spent Grain Wax

Spent Grain Wax is a natural wax derived from the spent grains of malted barley, typically leftover from the brewing process in beer production. In skincare, it is used for its potential emollient, moisturizing, and skin-conditioning properties.

Acetyl Glucosamine

Acetyl Glucosamine

Acetyl Glucosamine is an amino acid sugar. It increases hyaluronic acid production in the skin, repairs sun damage, improves skin tone & hydration, and reduces the appearance of wrinkles. Amino acids are a class of ingredients. They can also be found on ingredients lists as acetyl tyrosinamide, alanine, arginine, arginine hcl, arginine pca, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, lysine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine and valine and yeast amino acids.

Wild Cherry Extract

Prunus Serotina

Wild cherry is a natural fruit extract, rich in plant antioxidants and vitamin c which help to protect the skin from free radical damage. It may also offer skin calming benefits.

Amino Acids

Amino Acids are the small building blocks that make up peptides, and proteins. Each amino acid has a unique structure, and as such plays a specific role within the body. There are around 20 different types considered to be most important for human health. Amino acids are a class of ingredients. They can also be found on ingredients lists as acetyl glucosamine, acetyl tyrosinamide, alanine, arginine, arginine hcl, arginine pca, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, lysine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine and valine and yeast amino acids.

Azelaic Acid

Azelaic Acid

Azelaic acid is found naturally in grains such as barley, wheat and rye, but can also be produced commercially in the lab. It has several benefits in skincare including as an anti-inflammatory, with evidence showing great results in treating rosacea symptoms (swelling & redness) via this mechanism. Azelaic also has an anti-blemish activity - firstly, it is an antibacterial which works to kill acne-causing bacteria, P.Acnes. Secondly, it prevents pores becoming blocked by the skin’s natural shedding process, which makes it harder for this bacteria to populate inside the pore to cause a blemish (it needs an oxygen-free environment to thrive). Studies have also shown azelaic acid to inhibit melanogenesis (production of melanin), so also has benefits in treating hyperpigmentation and post-inflammatory acne scarring. It has good skin tolerability, so can be used to treat more sensitive skin types in concentrations of around 10%. It is a family of ingredients, the other ingredient including Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate.

Glycerin

Glycerin is a humectant present in all natural lipids. It works to attract water molecules towards it, plumping & hydrating the applied area, resulting in smooth, soft, hydrated skin. It is one of the most widely used humectants in skincare, due to its high performance and broad availability (making it very cost-effective). Recent research has shown that its ability to penetrate the layers of the skin is superior to that of low molecular weight hyaluronic acid, making it a brilliant choice for overall skin hydration, and suitable for all skin types.

Algin

Algin

Algin, also known as sodium alginate, is a large sugar molecule/polysaccharide that is used as a gelling agent in cosmetics, and is derived from brown seaweed. It is used in cosmetics for its hydrating and soothing properties, and in formulations as a binding and thickening agent. It is in the class of Algae Extract which also include ahnfeltia concinna extract, alaria esculenta extract, algae exopolysaccharides, alteromonas ferment extract, ascophyllum nodosum extract, asparagopsis armata extract, chlorella protothecoides, chlorella vulgaris extract, dunaliella salina (green algae) extract, hydrolyzed f-fucoidan, laminaria ochroleuca (kelp) extract, macrocystis pyrifera (kelp) extract, and marine extract.

Vitamin A

Retinoic acid (aka tretinoin) is the gold standard of anti-ageing and works in a number of ways. Firstly, it blocks the production of collagen-degrading enzymes, meaning collagen does not get broken down as quickly in the skin. After prolonged use (6M+), it has also been shown to stimulate the production of type I and type III collagen, reducing wrinkles and improving skin firmness. It has been shown to protect against UV-induced damage, as well as reducing the appearance of hyperpigmentation in the skin. Skin treated with retinoids is smoother, more even-toned, firmer and younger looking. Vitamin A is a family of ingredients also known as retinol, retinaldehyde, encapsulated retinaldehyde, Retinoic acid (aka tretinoin), hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinyl palmitate, retinyl propionate or retinyl retinoate (8x more powerful than retinol). Vitamin A is one of the most well-researched actives used in skincare today. Retinol and all of It's derivatives are broken down within the skin first into retinaldehyde, then into retinoic acid, the active form recognised by the body to trigger it’s skin benefits.