Ingredients in Skincare

Linolenic Acid

Linolenic Acid

Alpha Linolenic Acid (ALA) is a plant-based Omega 3 fatty acid, found in plant oils such as flaxseed and soy. ALA provides anti-inflammatory effects by inhibiting the production of inflammatory mediators in the body. ALA also supports healthy skin barrier functioning, by inhibiting levels of trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), and therefore maintaining adequate levels of hydration in the epidermis, resulting in smooth, soft & moisturised skin. Linolenic acid is in the class of essential lipids, and can be found on ingredient lists as caprooyl phytosphingosine, caprooyl sphingosine, cholesterol, glycolipids, glycoproteins, glycosphingolipids, Lecithin, linoleic acid, phospholipids and phytosphingosine.

Taurine

Taurine

In skin care, taurine is a powerful form of anti-fatigue. When applied topically, taurine re-energises skin to minimise the signs of fatigue whilst helping with rehydration. Amino acids are a class of ingredients. They can also be found on ingredients lists as acetyl glucosamine,acetyl tyrosinamide, alanine, arginine hcl, arginine pca, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, proline, serine, threonine and valine and yeast amino acids.

Ubiquinone

Coenzyme Q10

Ubiquinone, also known as CoEnzyme Q10, is a fat-soluble substance produced naturally in the body. It provides antioxidant protection against free radicals, to support the skin’s own anti-ageing defenses. With age, the body’s production of this vitamin-like substance decreases, so it can be applied topically to provide extra antioxidant activity. It has also been shown to support the synthesis of collagen and elastin, proteins which give skin structure & bounce, which also naturally decrease with age, so the inclusion of Ubiquinone in your routine can help to support youthful-looking skin.

Sh-Oligopeptide

In It's raw form, oligopeptide is a white powder. Most of the research has been conducted by the labs that manufacture it; however, there are promising studies showing it can help manage acne-causing bacteria, both on its own and in conjunction with anti-acne superstar exfoliant salicylic acid.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide

Categorized as a “messenger peptide” because of its ability to “tell” skin how to look better, specifically regarding reducing signs of sun damage like wrinkles and rough texture. Some research has shown that palmitoyl tripeptide has similar anti-aging benefits to retinol.

Lactobacillus Ferment

Lactobacillus Ferment

Lactobacillus ferment is a probiotic, with a number of skin benefits. It was first shown by Estee Lauder to protect against environmental aggressors by supporting DNA repair within the cell. It was later shown to have powerful anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial effects, with research indicating it being particularly beneficial for those with acne or rosacea. The manufacturer of the ingredient, Barnet, has confirmed the mechanism of this is by suppressing the growth of harmful bacteria associated with these conditions, and encouraging the diversity of growth of beneficial skin microbiota. Lactobacillus ferment sits in a class of probiotic ingredients which can be found on ingredients lists as bifida ferment lysate and lactococcus ferment lysate.

Retinyl Propionate

Retinyl Propionate

Retinyl Propionate is a part of the vitamin A family of ingredients and is an ester of retinol and propionic acid. It is designed to have better skin tolerability vs. retinol. Once absorbed, it is broken down in the body to retinol, then into retinaldehyde, and then again into retinoic acid, the active form recognised by the body to trigger it’s skin benefits. Studies have shown levels of 0.3% or higher are required to see benefits comparable with retinol. It is part of a family of ingredients also found on ingredients lists as encapsulated retinaldehyde, hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinaldehyde, retinyl palmitate, retinyl propionate and retinyl retinoate (8x more powerful than retinol)

Laminaria Ochroleuca (Kelp) Extract

Laminaria Ochroleuca (Kelp) Extract

A type of kelp that helps soothe skin and offers hydration-enhancing properties, it can also play a role in reinforcing skin’s barrier and warding off environmental stressors. Researchers note that this ingredient is particularly useful for those prone to sensitive skin. It is in the class of Algae Extract which also include ahnfeltia concinna extract, alaria esculenta extract, algae exopolysaccharides, algin, alteromonas ferment extract, alteromonas ferment extract, ascophyllum nodosum extract, asparagopsis armata extract, chlorella protothecoides, chlorella vulgaris extract, dunaliella salina (green algae) extract, hydrolyzed f-fucoidan, macrocystis pyrifera (kelp) extract, and marine extract.

Phytosphingosine

Phytosphingosine

Phytosphingosine (PS) is a lipid which naturally occurs in the stratum corneum (the top, visible layer of our epidermis). This acts as a precursor for ceramide synthesis, meaning it encourages the skin to produce ceramides naturally. Studies have also shown PS to offer anti-acne benefits, it is believed by reinforcing the protective barrier, and therefore reducing specific abnormalities in the skin functioning that lead to acne (invading inflammatory bacteria, increased keratinization, increased sebaceous gland activity). It is in the same class of essential lipids that include caprooyl phytosphingosine, caprooyl sphingosine, cholesterol, glycolipids, glycoproteins, glycosphingolipids, lecithin, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and phospholipids.

Glycolipids

Glycolipids

Glycolipids are made up of a sugar monomer (monosaccharide) and a lipid. This is the umbrella term encompassing ceramides, sphingoids & sterols. Glycolipids is in the class of essential lipids, it can be found on ingredient lists as caprooyl phytosphingosine, caprooyl sphingosine, cholesterol, glycoproteins, glycosphingolipids, lecithin, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, phospholipids and phytosphingosine.

Lactobionic Acid

Lactobionic acid is a non-irritating poly hydroxy acid (PHA) derived from natural sugars. PHAs provide a gentle exfoliation of the skin, encouraging dead cells to be shed from the surface, and new cells to be produced in the basal layer of the epidermis. This process leads to smoother, less congested & more radiant skin, whilst reducing discolouration & fine lines to provide visible anti-ageing results. Lactobionic acid is also an antioxidant, protecting skin from harmful effects of free radicals within the body, as well as inhibiting specific enzymes which lead to degradation of our skin proteins, so this mechanism keeps skin more youthful. Lactobionic acid also has humectant qualities, meaning it is able to draw water molecules to it, plumping & hydrating the area which it is applied. It was patented in 2000 by Neostrata, as one of their ‘Bionic acids’. Lactobionic acid is in a class of polyhydroxy acid ingredients also known by gluconolactone and maltobionic acid.

Palmitoyl Decapeptide

Palmitoyl oligopeptides are peptide or small proteins, characterized by a generic structure of a string of amino acids. Generally, palmitoyl oligopeptides have similar uses in skincare, and cosmetic formulations are often used as an anti-aging ingredient. They are thought to be beneficial in anti-aging formulations due to their potential to help stimulate collagen production and promote healthy cell functioning. It is in a class of ingredients also found on ingredients lists as acetylarginyltryptophyl diphenylglycine, acetyl tetrapeptide, arginine/lysine polypeptide, azelaoyl bis-dipeptide, copper heptapeptide-14 pantothenate, dipeptide, dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, ferric hexapeptide, heptapeptide-15, palmitate, myristol hexapeptide, myristol pentapeptide, myristoyl nonapeptide, myristoyl pentapeptide, oligopeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl heptapeptide, palmitoyl hexapeptide, palmitoyl nonapeptide, palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl pentapeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, pentapeptide, sh-oligopeptide, tetrapeptide and copper palmitoyl heptapeptide.

Phenylalanine

Phenylalanine

An essential amino acid that the body cannot produce itself but has to take from the diet. Combined with UVA exposure, phenylalanine is used in the treatment of vitiligo (a pigmentation disorder where patches of the skin lose the pigment). Amino acids are a class of ingredients. They can also be found on ingredients lists as acetyl glucosamine,acetyl tyrosinamide, alanine, arginine hcl, arginine pca, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine and valine and yeast amino acids.

Linoleic Acid

Linoleic Acid

Linoleic Acid is an Omega 6 essential fatty acid (EFA), found in many plant oils: corn, safflower & sunflower. Linoleic acid forms the fatty acid based of Ceramides EOH, EOS and EOP, which are essential for the normal functioning of the skin barrier. Applying linoleic acid topically helps to support ceramide functioning within the skin, leading to improved skin hydration and smoothness. Research also shows that sebum in acne-prone skin can be lacking in Omega 6 (with too much Omega 3), so there is evidence to suggest applying this topically can help to balance the sebum composition and in turn reduce acne lesions. Linoleic Acid is in the class of essential lipids, and can be found on ingredient lists as caprooyl phytosphingosine, caprooyl sphingosine, cholesterol, glycolipids, glycoproteins, glycosphingolipids, Lecithin, linolenic acid, phospholipids and phytosphingosine.

Plankton Extract

Plankton Extract

Plankton Extract has nourishing and hydrating properties which can benefit those with dry skin, and its gentle nature makes it a fitting choice for individuals with sensitive skin. It is in the class of Algae Extract which also include ahnfeltia concinna extract, alaria esculenta extract, algae exopolysaccharides, algin, alteromonas ferment extract, ascophyllum nodosum extract, asparagopsis armata extract, chlorella protothecoides, chlorella vulgaris extract, dunaliella salina (green algae) extract, hydrolyzed f-fucoidan, laminaria ochroleuca (kelp) extract, macrocystis pyrifera (kelp) extract, marine extract, parachlorella beijerinckii exopolysaccharides, parachlorella beijerinckii exopolysaccharides, porphyridium cruentum extract, pseudoalteromonas exopolysaccharides, tripleurospermum maritimum extract, vibrio alginolyticus ferment filtrate, chlorella protothecoides oil