Ingredients in Skincare

Probiotics

Probiotics

Probiotics can be defined as living bacteria which are good for the skin, and are useful to include in skincare formulations in order to populate a healthy microbiome (the ecosystem of bacteria on the skin). A diverse breadth in the strains of bacteria living on the skin results in a healthy microbiome, and some early research has linked certain imbalances in this microbiome to skin conditions such as acne, eczema and psoriasis. Probiotics are a class of ingredients which can be found on ingredients lists as bifida ferment lysate, lactobacillus ferment, and lactococcus ferment lysate.

Lactococcus Ferment Lysate

Lactococcus Ferment Lysate

Lactococcus Ferment Lysate is a post-biotic ingredient derived from Gram-positive bacteria, Lactococcus lactis. It is used in skincare for its ability to increase the speed of epidermal growth, leading to a thicker stratum corneum (outermost layer of the skin), and in turn better barrier function. This is seen as healthier-looking, more hydrated and supple skin. Lactococcus ferment lysate sits in a class of probiotic ingredients which can be found on ingredients lists as bifida ferment lysate and lactobacillus ferment.

Myristol Pentapeptide

Myristoyl pentapeptide is an anti-aging peptide that promotes cell regeneration and is used in skincare to treat fine lines and wrinkles. It is in a class of ingredients also found on ingredients lists as acetylarginyltryptophyl diphenylglycine, acetyl tetrapeptide, arginine/lysine polypeptide, azelaoyl bis-dipeptide, copper heptapeptide-14 pantothenate, dipeptide, dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, ferric hexapeptide, heptapeptide-15, palmitate, myristol hexapeptide, myristoyl nonapeptide, myristoyl pentapeptide, oligopeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl decapeptide, palmitoyl heptapeptide, palmitoyl hexapeptide, palmitoyl nonapeptide, palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl pentapeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, pentapeptide, sh-oligopeptide, tetrapeptide and copper palmitoyl heptapeptide.

Linoleic Acid

Linoleic Acid

Linoleic Acid is an Omega 6 essential fatty acid (EFA), found in many plant oils: corn, safflower & sunflower. Linoleic acid forms the fatty acid based of Ceramides EOH, EOS and EOP, which are essential for the normal functioning of the skin barrier. Applying linoleic acid topically helps to support ceramide functioning within the skin, leading to improved skin hydration and smoothness. Research also shows that sebum in acne-prone skin can be lacking in Omega 6 (with too much Omega 3), so there is evidence to suggest applying this topically can help to balance the sebum composition and in turn reduce acne lesions. Linoleic Acid is in the class of essential lipids, and can be found on ingredient lists as caprooyl phytosphingosine, caprooyl sphingosine, cholesterol, glycolipids, glycoproteins, glycosphingolipids, Lecithin, linolenic acid, phospholipids and phytosphingosine.

L-Ascorbic Acid

L-Ascorbic Acid

Part of the Vitamin C family of ingredients, L-ascorbic acid is Vitamin C in its purest form, and the active form required by the body to result in the many skin skin benefits of Vitamin C. The issue with L-ascorbic acid is in the delivery, as it is very unstable in water, and needs a pH 4 or below for it to penetrate the skin. That being said, when it can be stabilised in a formula and is able to penetrate the skin, it provides the highest potency of any form of Vitamin C currently available. Vitamin C can also be found on ingredients lists as ascorbic acid, ascorbyl glucoside, ascorbyl palmitate, ethyl ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate and tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate.

Neoglucosamine

A patented non-amino acid sugar which gently exfoliates the skin, reduces fine lines and wrinkles and evens out skin tone. It is also a building block of our skin’s natural hyaluronic acid so helps to plump and firm the skin.

Pseudoalteromonas Exopolysaccharides

Pseudoalteromonas Exopolysaccharides

Pseudoalteromonas Exopolysaccharides are biotechnological marine alternatives to famous IT-moisturiser and humectant hyaluronic acid (HA). It is obtained by the fermentation of a marine bacterial strain. It is in the class of Algae Extract which also include ahnfeltia concinna extract, alaria esculenta extract, algae exopolysaccharides, algin, alteromonas ferment extract, ascophyllum nodosum extract, asparagopsis armata extract, chlorella protothecoides, chlorella vulgaris extract, dunaliella salina (green algae) extract, hydrolyzed f-fucoidan, laminaria ochroleuca (kelp) extract, macrocystis pyrifera (kelp) extract, marine extract, parachlorella beijerinckii exopolysaccharides, plankton extract, porphyridium cruentum extract, padina pavonica thallus extract, tripleurospermum maritimum extract, vibrio alginolyticus ferment filtrate, chlorella protothecoides oil

Saccharomyces Cerevisiae (Yeast) Extract

Saccharomyces Cerevisiae (Yeast) Extract

Yeast extract (e.g. Saccharomyces Cerevisiae) is used in skincare for its benefits as a moisturising and soothing agent. It has strong antioxidant properties to protect against free radical damage and its fermented nature means it also functions as a prebiotic on the skin (meaning it acts as a food source for beneficial skin bacteria to thrive). Prebiotics are in a class of ingredients that can be found on ingredients lists as alpha-glucan oligosaccharide, fructooligosaccharides, lactobacillus extract filtrate and rhamnose.

Lactobionic Acid

Lactobionic acid is a non-irritating poly hydroxy acid (PHA) derived from natural sugars. PHAs provide a gentle exfoliation of the skin, encouraging dead cells to be shed from the surface, and new cells to be produced in the basal layer of the epidermis. This process leads to smoother, less congested & more radiant skin, whilst reducing discolouration & fine lines to provide visible anti-ageing results. Lactobionic acid is also an antioxidant, protecting skin from harmful effects of free radicals within the body, as well as inhibiting specific enzymes which lead to degradation of our skin proteins, so this mechanism keeps skin more youthful. Lactobionic acid also has humectant qualities, meaning it is able to draw water molecules to it, plumping & hydrating the area which it is applied. It was patented in 2000 by Neostrata, as one of their ‘Bionic acids’. Lactobionic acid is in a class of polyhydroxy acid ingredients also known by gluconolactone and maltobionic acid.

Trehalose

Trehalose is in a class of ingredients that can be found on ingredients lists as natural moisturising factors, sodium lactate or sodium pca.

Glycine

Glycine

Glycine is an amino acid that is found in glycerine and collagen, which are ingredients in many skincare products. Glycine can improve the visible signs of aging, moisture retention, collagen production and regeneration. Amino acids are a class of ingredients. They can also be found on ingredients lists as acetyl glucosamine,acetyl tyrosinamide, alanine, arginine hcl, arginine pca, histidine, isoleucine, lysine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine and valine and yeast amino acids.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl tripeptide-1 is a synthetic fatty acid-linked peptide that can help repair visible skin damage and strengthen skin’s underlying supportive elements. It is from a class of ingredients also found on ingredients lists as acetyl hexapeptide, acetyl tetrapeptide, acetylarginyltryptophyl diphenylglycine, arginine/lysine polypeptide, azelaoyl bis-dipeptide, copper heptapeptide-14 pantothenate, dipeptide, dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, ferric hexapeptide, heptapeptide-15, palmitate, myristol hexapeptide, myristol pentapeptide, myristoyl nonapeptide, myristoyl pentapeptide, oligopeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl decapeptide, palmitoyl heptapeptide, palmitoyl nonapeptide, palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl pentapeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, pentapeptide, sh-oligopeptide, tetrapeptide and copper palmitoyl heptapeptide.

Mango Seed Butter

Mango seed butter, also known as mango kernel butter or mango butter, is a rich and creamy emollient derived from the seeds of the mango fruit (Mangifera indica). In skincare, it is used for its excellent moisturizing, nourishing, and skin-conditioning properties.

Chlorella Vulgaris Extract

Chlorella Vulgaris Extract

In skin care products, algae extract has several functions, including as a thickening agent, water-binding agent, and antioxidant. Chlorella vulgaris extract has been shown to stimulate collagen synthesis. It is in the class of Algae Extract which also include ahnfeltia concinna extract, alaria esculenta extract, algae exopolysaccharides, algin, alteromonas ferment extract, alteromonas ferment extract, ascophyllum nodosum extract, asparagopsis armata extract, chlorella protothecoides, dunaliella salina (green algae) extract, hydrolyzed f-fucoidan, laminaria ochroleuca (kelp) extract, macrocystis pyrifera (kelp) extract, and marine extract.

Retinyl Retinoate

Retinyl Retinoate (8X More Powerful Than Retinol)

Retinyl retinoate is a part of the vitamin A family of ingredients, which combines retinol with retinoic acid. Research shows that this makes it more stable in the delivery (a common problem with either active alone), as well as more potent and less irritating. It is broken down by the body in two stages - first into retinol and retinoic acid, then the retinol is broken down again into retinoic acid, so essentially packing double the punch. Studies carried out comparing this to pure retinol showed significantly more effective and faster results, with comparable side effects. It is part of a family of ingredients also found on ingredients lists as encapsulated retinaldehyde, hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinaldehyde, retinyl palmitate and retinyl propionate.