Ingredients in Skincare

Retinyl Propionate

Retinyl Propionate

Retinyl Propionate is a part of the vitamin A family of ingredients and is an ester of retinol and propionic acid. It is designed to have better skin tolerability vs. retinol. Once absorbed, it is broken down in the body to retinol, then into retinaldehyde, and then again into retinoic acid, the active form recognised by the body to trigger it’s skin benefits. Studies have shown levels of 0.3% or higher are required to see benefits comparable with retinol. It is part of a family of ingredients also found on ingredients lists as encapsulated retinaldehyde, hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinaldehyde, retinyl palmitate, retinyl propionate and retinyl retinoate (8x more powerful than retinol)

Laminaria Ochroleuca (Kelp) Extract

Laminaria Ochroleuca (Kelp) Extract

A type of kelp that helps soothe skin and offers hydration-enhancing properties, it can also play a role in reinforcing skin’s barrier and warding off environmental stressors. Researchers note that this ingredient is particularly useful for those prone to sensitive skin. It is in the class of Algae Extract which also include ahnfeltia concinna extract, alaria esculenta extract, algae exopolysaccharides, algin, alteromonas ferment extract, alteromonas ferment extract, ascophyllum nodosum extract, asparagopsis armata extract, chlorella protothecoides, chlorella vulgaris extract, dunaliella salina (green algae) extract, hydrolyzed f-fucoidan, macrocystis pyrifera (kelp) extract, and marine extract.

Taurine

Taurine

In skin care, taurine is a powerful form of anti-fatigue. When applied topically, taurine re-energises skin to minimise the signs of fatigue whilst helping with rehydration. Amino acids are a class of ingredients. They can also be found on ingredients lists as acetyl glucosamine,acetyl tyrosinamide, alanine, arginine hcl, arginine pca, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, proline, serine, threonine and valine and yeast amino acids.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide

Categorized as a “messenger peptide” because of its ability to “tell” skin how to look better, specifically regarding reducing signs of sun damage like wrinkles and rough texture. Some research has shown that palmitoyl tripeptide has similar anti-aging benefits to retinol.

Linoleic Acid

Linoleic Acid

Linoleic Acid is an Omega 6 essential fatty acid (EFA), found in many plant oils: corn, safflower & sunflower. Linoleic acid forms the fatty acid based of Ceramides EOH, EOS and EOP, which are essential for the normal functioning of the skin barrier. Applying linoleic acid topically helps to support ceramide functioning within the skin, leading to improved skin hydration and smoothness. Research also shows that sebum in acne-prone skin can be lacking in Omega 6 (with too much Omega 3), so there is evidence to suggest applying this topically can help to balance the sebum composition and in turn reduce acne lesions. Linoleic Acid is in the class of essential lipids, and can be found on ingredient lists as caprooyl phytosphingosine, caprooyl sphingosine, cholesterol, glycolipids, glycoproteins, glycosphingolipids, Lecithin, linolenic acid, phospholipids and phytosphingosine.

Sodium PCA

Sodium PCA

Sodium PCA is in a class of ingredients that can be found on ingredients lists as natural moisturising factors, sodium lactate or trehalose.

Phenylalanine

Phenylalanine

An essential amino acid that the body cannot produce itself but has to take from the diet. Combined with UVA exposure, phenylalanine is used in the treatment of vitiligo (a pigmentation disorder where patches of the skin lose the pigment). Amino acids are a class of ingredients. They can also be found on ingredients lists as acetyl glucosamine,acetyl tyrosinamide, alanine, arginine hcl, arginine pca, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine and valine and yeast amino acids.

Indian Gooseberry

Indian gooseberry (also known as amla) has one of the highest concentrations of any fruit, of antioxidants such as gallic acid and quercetin. Studies have also shown this fruit to have great results in reducing signs of sensitivity and redness.

Lactobionic Acid

Lactobionic acid is a non-irritating poly hydroxy acid (PHA) derived from natural sugars. PHAs provide a gentle exfoliation of the skin, encouraging dead cells to be shed from the surface, and new cells to be produced in the basal layer of the epidermis. This process leads to smoother, less congested & more radiant skin, whilst reducing discolouration & fine lines to provide visible anti-ageing results. Lactobionic acid is also an antioxidant, protecting skin from harmful effects of free radicals within the body, as well as inhibiting specific enzymes which lead to degradation of our skin proteins, so this mechanism keeps skin more youthful. Lactobionic acid also has humectant qualities, meaning it is able to draw water molecules to it, plumping & hydrating the area which it is applied. It was patented in 2000 by Neostrata, as one of their ‘Bionic acids’. Lactobionic acid is in a class of polyhydroxy acid ingredients also known by gluconolactone and maltobionic acid.

Yeast Amino Acids

Yeast Amino Acids

Yeast amino acids help to stimulate the skin’s cellular renewal, soothe skin, and increase oxygen flow to skin cells. It is also believed that yeast amino acids can stimulate collagen production. Amino acids are a class of ingredients. They can also be found on ingredients lists as acetyl glucosamine,acetyl tyrosinamide, alanine, arginine hcl, arginine pca, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, proline, serine and yeast amino acids.

Palmitoyl Decapeptide

Palmitoyl oligopeptides are peptide or small proteins, characterized by a generic structure of a string of amino acids. Generally, palmitoyl oligopeptides have similar uses in skincare, and cosmetic formulations are often used as an anti-aging ingredient. They are thought to be beneficial in anti-aging formulations due to their potential to help stimulate collagen production and promote healthy cell functioning. It is in a class of ingredients also found on ingredients lists as acetylarginyltryptophyl diphenylglycine, acetyl tetrapeptide, arginine/lysine polypeptide, azelaoyl bis-dipeptide, copper heptapeptide-14 pantothenate, dipeptide, dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, ferric hexapeptide, heptapeptide-15, palmitate, myristol hexapeptide, myristol pentapeptide, myristoyl nonapeptide, myristoyl pentapeptide, oligopeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl heptapeptide, palmitoyl hexapeptide, palmitoyl nonapeptide, palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl pentapeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, pentapeptide, sh-oligopeptide, tetrapeptide and copper palmitoyl heptapeptide.

Chlorella Protothecoides Oil

Chlorella Protothecoides Oil

Chlorella vulgaris is a green eukaryotic microalgae that was first discovered in 1890. In skin care products, Chlorella vulgaris extract has been shown to stimulate collagen synthesis. Since collagen and elastin are responsible for the strength and elasticity of skin, preventing the degradation of these proteins is important for maintaining a youthful complexion. It is in the class of Algae Extract which also include ahnfeltia concinna extract, alaria esculenta extract, algae exopolysaccharides, algin, alteromonas ferment extract, ascophyllum nodosum extract, asparagopsis armata extract, chlorella protothecoides, vibrio alginolyticus ferment filtrate, dunaliella salina (green algae) extract, hydrolyzed f-fucoidan, laminaria ochroleuca (kelp) extract, macrocystis pyrifera (kelp) extract, marine extract, parachlorella beijerinckii exopolysaccharides, padina pavonica thallus extract, plankton extract, porphyridium cruentum extract, pseudoalteromonas exopolysaccharides, chondrus crispus, tripleurospermum maritimum extract and vibrio alginolyticus ferment filtrate.

Macrocystis Pyrifera (Kelp) Extract

Macrocystis Pyrifera (Kelp) Extract

Macrocystis pyrifera extract is a type of seaweed rich in multiple beneficial ingredients. Its primary value in skin care comes from its antioxidant properties. It is in the class of Algae Extract which also include ahnfeltia concinna extract, alaria esculenta extract, algae exopolysaccharides, algin, alteromonas ferment extract, alteromonas ferment extract, ascophyllum nodosum extract, asparagopsis armata extract, chlorella protothecoides, chlorella vulgaris extract, dunaliella salina (green algae) extract, hydrolyzed f-fucoidan, laminaria ochroleuca (kelp) extract, and marine extract.

Neoglucosamine

A patented non-amino acid sugar which gently exfoliates the skin, reduces fine lines and wrinkles and evens out skin tone. It is also a building block of our skin’s natural hyaluronic acid so helps to plump and firm the skin.

Glycolipids

Glycolipids

Glycolipids are made up of a sugar monomer (monosaccharide) and a lipid. This is the umbrella term encompassing ceramides, sphingoids & sterols. Glycolipids is in the class of essential lipids, it can be found on ingredient lists as caprooyl phytosphingosine, caprooyl sphingosine, cholesterol, glycoproteins, glycosphingolipids, lecithin, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, phospholipids and phytosphingosine.