Retinyl Palmitate is a part of the vitamin A family of ingredients. It is broken down in the body to retinol, and then into retinaldehyde, then again into retinoic acid, the active form recognised by the body to trigger its skin benefits.

It is part of a family of ingredients also found on ingredients lists as encapsulated retinaldehyde, hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinaldehyde, retinol, retinyl propionate and retinyl retinoate (8x more powerful than retinol)

Renude

dark circles

undereye wrinkles

I have chosen this nut-free eye cream for you to target dark circles and fine lines. It includes a wealth of brightening and hydrating ingredients alongside antioxidants to protect the delicate eye area.

Algae is an incredibly interesting natural ingredient source. It is essentially an underwater plant, designed to get its food from sunlight, much like any other plants, although from much more challenging conditions. There are many types of algae (kelp, laminaria, microalgae), but in general in all its forms it acts as a powerful antioxidant, protecting from free radical damage, as well as being able to hydrate the skin and deliver naturally-occurring vitamins into the skin.

algae extract

alpha arbutin

Arbutin can be derived from the bearberry plant, or made synthetically, and is used in skincare to lighten dark spots. It works by breaking down in the body into hydroquinone, which can inhibit tyrosinase, an enzyme responsible for producing melanin. It is one of the most well-researched actives for lightening pigmentation, with better skin tolerability vs. prescription hydroquinone.

Bisabolol is a naturally-occurring active found in the chamomile plant, although this can also be created synthetically. It’s key properties are as an anti-inflammatory and soothing agent, with some studies also showing it to have a brightening effect on the skin. Bisabolol is also a rich source of Panthenol (Vitamin B5), which acts as a humectant, meaning it draws water molecules towards it to plump and hydrate the area. Studies have also shown that bisabolol can enhance the penetration of other actives into the skin, so is great when used in combination with other actives designed to work at the basal layer of the epidermis, or in fact the dermis.

bisabolol

camellia sinensis (green tea) leaf extract

Green Tea is a natural plant extract, rich in polyphenols, also known as catechins. Green Tea is particularly high in the catechin Epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG), which is a powerful antioxidant, meaning it can neutralise free radicals to prevent them causing damage within the skin. It is one of the most well researched natural plant extracts used in skincare, with studies also showing it to have an anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial effect.

chrysanthemum parthenium (feverfew) extract

Feverfew is a flower species, belonging to the daisy family, rich in active flavonoids and alpha-pinene. It has been used in ancient medicine for centuries to treat everything from headaches, constipation, vertigo, worms, spasms & arthritis. One of the oil-soluble flavonoids, Tanetin, has been shown to modulate inflammatory responses in the body, whilst other flavonoids provide antioxidant protection. Alpha-pinene provides anti-inflammatory benefits, as well as exhibiting powerful antimicrobial activity.

glycyrrhiza glabra (licorice) root extract

Liquorice is a legume which grows in the Mediterranean, the Middle East & Russia. It contains the active constituent glabridin, which has been shown to prevent and reverse UV-induced skin damage, to provide visible skin-lightening properties to the skin.

Its second active component, Glycyrrhetinic acid is used in skincare for its anti-inflammatory benefits. It works by inhibiting the production of inflammatory substances, such as cortisone, within the body, with some research showing results to be comparable to prescription hydrocortisone cream.

Niacinamide, also known as Vitamin B3 and Nicotinamide, has many skincare benefits. Firstly, it regulates sebum production in the skin, which in turn reduces blemishes and visible pore size. It also reduces facial redness by improving microcirculation, which means moving the blood inside the capillaries away from the face to reduce visible redness. It also has the ability to strengthen the natural lipid barrier of the skin by encouraging ceramide production (the building blocks which seal our skin cells together), which in turn increases the hydration within the epidermis. Lastly, niacinamide works to help reduce hyperpigmentation by blocking melanin from being deposited on the skin cells.

niacinamide

Vitamin A derivative. It is broken down in the body to retinol, and then into retinaldehyde, then again into retinoic acid, the active form recognised by the body to trigger it’s skin benefits.

retinyl palmitate

Vitamin A, aka Retinol, is one of the most well-researched actives used in skincare today. Retinol and all of its derivatives are broken down within the skin first into retinaldehyde, then into retinoic acid, the active form recognised by the body to trigger it’s skin benefits.

Retinoic acid (aka tretinoin) is the gold standard of anti-ageing and works in a number of ways. Firstly, it blocks the production of collagen-degrading enzymes, meaning collagen does not get broken down as quickly in the skin. After prolonged use (6M+), it has also been shown to stimulate the production of type I and type III collagen, reducing wrinkles and improving skin firmness. It has been shown to protect against UV-induced damage, as well as reducing the appearance of hyperpigmentation in the skin. Skin treated with retinoids is smoother, more even-toned, firmer and younger looking.

Re-energise your eyes with the First Aid Beauty 5-in-1 Eye Cream. Ideal for all skin types, its moisturising, anti-ageing formula combines soothing bisabolol with brightening alpha arbutin to effectively care for and revitalise your eyes. Ultra-nourishing, the cream helps reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles around the delicate eye area whilst firming, brightening and evening out skin tone. Expect hydrated eyes with a youthful radiance.

barrier support

dehydrated skin

fine lines

redness

ultra dry skin

I have chosen this barrier-supporting serum to improve skin hydration, reduce redness, and provide daily antioxidant protection to the skin.

Amino acids are the small building blocks that make up peptides, and proteins. Each amino acid has a unique structure, and as such plays a specific role within the body. There are around 20 different types considered to be most important for human health. In the outer layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, they are present in the ‘natural moisturising factors’, our skin’s own moisturising mechanism, and they help to support water transport between skin cells to keep our surface smooth and hydrated.

alanine

L-ascorbic acid is Vitamin C in its purest form, and the active form required by the body to result in the many skin skin benefits of Vitamin C. The issue with L-ascorbic acid is in the delivery, as it is very unstable in water, and needs a pH 4 or below for it to penetrate the skin. That being said, when it can be stabilised in a formula and is able to penetrate the skin, it provides the highest potency of any form of Vitamin C currently available.

ascorbic acid

Vitamin C has many skin benefits, including its action as an antioxidant, to neutralise free radicals (reactive molecules with an unpaired electron), preventing them from causing damage to cells within the body. Vitamin C is also involved in the collagen-production process, so provides anti-wrinkle activity through this mechanism. Lastly, Vitamin C inhibits the enzyme tyrosinase, which is involved in melanin-synthesis, and can therefore visibly reduce areas of hyperpigmentation in the skin.

Many peptides function as anti-ageing ingredients in skincare, due to their ability to fit specific receptors in the body to trigger anti-ageing responses. This includes mechanisms like collagen production, cell regeneration or even blocking muscle contractions to smooth expression lines. Peptides are made up of amino acids, and are unique in shape, with a huge variety available to target specific responses in the body.

copper palmitoyl heptapeptide

Epigallocatechin Gallate (EGCG) is a catechin found naturally in abundance within green tea. It has a number of skin benefits, firstly as a powerful antioxidant, meaning it can neutralise free radicals before they can cause damage to skin cells. Studies have also shown it to encourage the production of the skin’s natural moisturising factor (NMF), in turn increasing the skin’s ability to retain moisture, which results in more hydrated, plump, smoother skin. There is some research to show that EGCG can also reduce visible hyperpigmentation by inhibiting the production of melanin in the skin.

epigallocatechin gallate

heptapeptide-15 palmitate

hydrolyzed oat protein

Oat extract is known to have soothing, anti-inflammatory effects in the skin, and is a popular active for treating symptoms of dry skin. It also has antioxidant properties so is able to protect the skin against free radicals caused by pollution and UV.

isoleucine

parachlorella beijerinckii exopolysaccharides

proline

serine

Sodium PCA is the sodium salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA), which is found naturally in the body, and in the skin’s natural moisturising factor (NMF). PCA acts as a humectant, meaning it draws water to it, plumping and hydrating the area. The skin’s NMF ensures adequate hydration of the stratum corneum, which also works to support the overall barrier function of the skin, regulating trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL). Including Sodium PCA in skincare supports this natural mechanism of the skin.

sodium pca

Natural moisturising factor (NMF) is a substance produced by the body, made up of minerals, lactate, urea, amino acids & humectants, which coats the surface skin cells to keep them moisturised. NMF increases the skin’s ability to retain moisture, which results in more hydrated, plump, smoother skin.

threonine

valine

An anti-oxidant rich, fortifying serum is formulated to help defend the skin barrier against pollutants and environmental aggressors.

This anti-oxidant rich, fortifying serum is formulated to help defend the skin barrier against pollutants and environmental aggressors. Formulated with the highest concentration of Alguronic Acid from algae, our benefit-boosting ingredient, this fortifying serum combines with nutrient-rich niacinamide (Vitamin B3) and an anti-oxidant power house: Phloretin (from apple wood) and Ergothioneine (from mushroom). Skin barrier is fortified to help improve the appearance of dullness, redness, discoloration, lines, and skin tone.

blackheads

blemishes

dull skin

enlarged pores

pigmentation

This lightweight moisturising gel is great for skin prone to acne or rosacea. It contains azelaic acid, alongside tranexamic acid to target hyperpigmentation, niacinamide to regulate sebum and support the natural skin barrier, and vitamins b5 and e to provide antioxidant protection to the skin.

Azelaic acid is found naturally in grains such as barley, wheat and rye, but can also be produced commercially in the lab. It has several benefits in skincare including as an anti-inflammatory, with evidence showing great results in treating rosacea symptoms (swelling & redness) via this mechanism.

Azelaic also has an anti-blemish activity - firstly, it is an antibacterial which works to kill acne-causing bacteria, P.Acnes. Secondly, it prevents pores becoming blocked by the skin’s natural shedding process, which makes it harder for this bacteria to populate inside the pore to cause a blemish (it needs an oxygen-free environment to thrive).

Studies have also shown azelaic acid to inhibit melanogenesis (production of melanin), so also has benefits in treating hyperpigmentation and post-inflammatory acne scarring. It has good skin tolerability, so can be used to treat more sensitive skin types in concentrations of around 10%.

azelaic acid

Hyaluronic acid is a polysaccharide which occurs naturally in the body. Hyaluronic acid works as an extremely powerful humectant, able to attract 1000x its own weight in water, to immediately plump and hydrate the area it is applied to. The body’s own production of hyaluronic acid slows with age, so supplementing this ingredient in topical formulations helps to support the skin’s natural moisture-binding, anti-ageing mechanisms.

hyaluronic acid

Panthenol is a form of Vitamin B5, which is converted into Pantothenic acid within the epidermis when applied topically. Its main benefit in cosmetics is as a humectant, meaning it can draw water molecules to it, hydrating and plumping the area it has been applied to.

Panthenol also supports the natural lipid barrier of the skin, by encouraging the production of a precursor to fatty acids & sphingolipids, both of which are essential parts of the skin barrier. This mechanism helps to moisturise the skin by reducing trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), therefore retaining more moisture within the skin. This also helps to reduce inflammation in dry or broken skin, as an intact skin barrier will prevent potential irritants from getting into the epidermis.

panthenol

Vitamin B5 is as a humectant, meaning it can draw water molecules to it, hydrating and plumping the area it has been applied to. It also supports the natural lipid barrier of the skin, by encouraging the production of a precursor to fatty acids & sphingolipids, both of which are essential parts of the skin barrier. This mechanism helps to moisturise the skin by reducing trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), therefore retaining more moisture within the skin. This also helps to reduce inflammation in dry or broken skin, as an intact skin barrier will prevent potential irritants from getting into the epidermis.

Phytosphingosine (PS) is a lipid which naturally occurs in the stratum corneum (the top, visible layer of our epidermis). This acts as a precursor for ceramide synthesis, meaning it encourages the skin to produce ceramides naturally.

Studies have also shown PS to offer anti-acne benefits, it is believed by reinforcing the protective barrier, and therefore reducing specific abnormalities in the skin functioning that lead to acne (invading inflammatory bacteria, increased keratinization, increased sebaceous gland activity).

phytosphingosine

Our outer layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, has a multilamellar structure (essentially a fine membrane), made up of lipids (fats), to form a non-permeable barrier. This keeps water inside the skin, and acts as the first defense against external aggressors. The lipids which make up the majority of this are known as ceramides, which are produced naturally in the body from a range of other naturally-occurring lipids, which we class here as essential lipids (not the same as essential fatty acids, which are deemed ‘essential’ as the body cannot produce these naturally.) Using these lipids in skincare helps to support the natural skin barrier, preventing water-loss to keep skin hydrated and balanced.

silybum marianum (milk thistle) fruit extract

Milk thistle extract is used in skincare for it’s soothing and skin-restoring abilities, as well as its antioxidant abilities.

Tocopherol, aka Vitamin E, is a fat-soluble Vitamin contained in many plant oils, or can also be produced synthetically. Vitamin E is found naturally in our own skin, and it’s main benefit is to offer powerful antioxidant protection against pollution and free radical damage. It also helps to support our skin’s natural lipid barrier, which in turn improves the hydration levels within the epidermis, as water loss through the skin is minimised.

tocopherol

Vitamin E is a fat-soluble Vitamin contained in many plant oils, or can also be produced synthetically. Vitamin E is found naturally in our own skin, and it’s main benefit is to offer powerful antioxidant protection against pollution and free radical damage. It also helps to support our skin’s natural lipid barrier, which in turn improves the hydration levels within the epidermis, as water loss through the skin is minimised.

Tranexamic acid is a synthetic derivative of the amino acid lysine, which is used in skincare to treat hyperpigmentation & post-inflammatory acne scarring. Studies have shown this to be as effective as the gold standard prescription ingredient hydroquinone, without any of the associated irritation, based on a panel with medium-toned skin (50 women of Iranian descent). It is believed to work by suppressing some of the mechanisms in the skin, which lead to the production of excess melanin.

tranexamic acid

Hydrating gel, light and of excellent tolerance due to its pH 5.5. Azeloglicina combines the properties of azelac acid and moisturizing action of glycine. It has a calming and anti-radical action, fights redness and impurities that accompanies couperosis. Sebumregulator action, decreasing the secretion of sebum and helps to diminish pimples. Inhibits the synthesis of tyrosine, homogenizing the skin color. Increases skin hydration and elasticity. The phytosphingosine natural skin lipid and part in the constitution of most of the ceramides. It has a natural action that reduces irritation. The Silybum marianum has a calming, soothing and antioxidant effect, camouflaging the redness of the skin prone to couperosis.

These formulas contain a high concentration of azelaic acid, which has proven effectiveness in treating redness, blemishes and hyperpigmentation.

Azelaic acid treatment picks

This 10% Azelaic acid booster is combined with salicylic acid to support breakout prone skin. The formula is a creamy texture, which absorbs instantly without dry out the skin.

This milky serum contains15% azelaic acid, in combination with salicylic acid, zinc and niacinamide. These ingredients work in combination to reduce inflammation, regulate oil production and provide antibacterial action to redness blemishes and post-inflammatory marks.

This lightweight moisturising gel contains azelaic acid, alongside tranexamic acid to target hyperpigmentation, niacinamide to regulate sebum and support the natural skin barrier, and vitamins b5 and e to provide antioxidant protection to the skin.

This water-based serum uses 12% of a derivative of azelaic acid known as Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate rather than the active itself (as it's notoriously difficult to formulate with and get a killer texture). This derivative delivers all the amazing benefits of azelaic acid as well as hydrating the skin, so this is a fantastic product for the price.

This creamy serum formula contains azelaic acid which acts as an antibacterial and anti-inflammatory to calm breakouts. Zinc PCA helps to regulate oil production while natural plant extracts provide antioxidant protection.

Dermatologist founder

I have chosen this soothing oil-free formula for you, to support the skin's natural barrier without any heaviness. This texture is great for combination and oily skin types, and has a wealth of antioxidant, barrier-supporting and soothing actives.

Allantoin occurs naturally in the body, but can also be derived from the root of the Comfrey plant or Chamomile, or produced synthetically. It is used in skincare for its ability to promote wound healing and healthy tissue growth, by stimulating the fibroblasts in the dermis to produce collagen and elastin fibres, essential tissues for skin regeneration and healing. Allantoin has also been shown to have soothing and anti-irritant properties, which is thought to be down to its ability to form complexes with irritating agents, thus preventing them from activating inflammatory mechanisms within the skin.

allantoin

Ascorbyl palmitate is an oil-soluble Vitamin C ester, produced by the reaction of ascorbic acid and palmitic acid. This oil-soluble form works to improve stability against oxidation (something L-ascorbic acid is notorious for), as well as improve skin affinity to allow the ingredient to penetrate further.

ascorbyl palmitate

camellia oleifera leaf extract

ceramide

Ceramides are long chains of lipids, which occur naturally within the epidermis. Their function is to hold the skin cells together by creating a barrier against water-loss from the inside-out, and external aggressors from the outside-in. They make up almost 50% of our skins composition, but they can be depleted by UV, free radicals & pollution, and their production also naturally slows with age. This leads to an impaired skin barrier, which results in dry, rough skin with more visible wrinkling and redness. Applying ceramides topically can increase the levels of ceramides in the epidermis, and therefore supports the natural healthy functioning of the skin.

Cholesterol is a fatty acid which occurs naturally in the skin’s lipid barrier. Applying cholesterol topically supports the skin barrier, reducing trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), and maintaining healthy skin functioning. Strengthening this lipid barrier also leads to improved skin hydration, which in turn leads to smoother, plumper, younger-looking skin.

cholesterol

Glycyrrhetinic acid is an active constituent derived from liquorice, used in skincare for its anti-inflammatory benefits. It works by inhibiting the production of inflammatory substances, such as cortisone, within the body, with some research showing results to be comparable to prescription hydrocortisone cream.

glycyrrhetinic acid

Lactic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), which occurs naturally in the body, as well as being found in dairy products, but is typically derived synthetically for cosmetics today.

AHAs work by dissolving the keratin binding the outermost layer of skin cells, speeding up the skin’s natural exfoliation process. This leads to smoother, brighter, clearer skin, whilst reducing skin discolouration & fine lines/wrinkles with continued use.  

lactic acid

Linoleic is an Omega 6 essential fatty acid (EFA), found in many plant oils: corn, safflower & sunflower. Linoleic acid forms the fatty acid based of Ceramides EOH, EOS and EOP, which are essential for the normal functioning of the skin barrier. Applying linoleic acid topically helps to support ceramide functioning within the skin, leading to improved skin hydration and smoothness.

Research also shows that sebum in acne-prone skin can be lacking in Omega 6 (with too much Omega 3), so there is evidence to suggest applying this topically can help to balance the sebum composition and in turn reduce acne lesions.

linoleic acid

Alpha Linolenic Acid (ALA) is a plant-based Omega 3 fatty acid, found in plant oils such as flaxseed and soy. ALA provides anti-inflammatory effects by inhibiting the production of inflammatory mediators in the body. ALA also supports healthy skin barrier functioning, by inhibiting levels of trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), and therefore maintaining adequate levels of hydration in the epidermis, resulting in smooth, soft & moisturised skin.

linolenic acid

Essential lipids act as a precursor for ceramide synthesis, meaning it encourages the skin to produce ceramides naturally. The function of ceramides is to hold the skin cells together by creating a barrier against water-loss from the inside-out, and external aggressors from the outside-in. They make up almost 50% of our skins composition, but they can be depleted by UV, free radicals & pollution, and their production also naturally slows with age. This leads to an impaired skin barrier, which results in dry, rough skin with more visible wrinkling and redness. Encouraging the skin’s natural production of ceramides leads to an improved skin barrier, resulting in smoother, more hydrated, younger-looking skin.

Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA), which occurs naturally in willow bark. Salicylic acid works as an exfoliating acid to dissolve the keratin that binds the outermost layers of the skin, encouraging the natural exfoliation process of the skin.

Due to its oil-soluble form, salicylic acid can penetrate inside the pore, to clear out dead skin cell build up and prevent comedones (blocked pores) from occurring, or acne-causing bacteria to overpopulate within the pore. This P.Acnes bacteria is anaerobic so needs an oxygen-free environment to thrive, and thus require a pore to be blocked.

salicylic acid

Sodium lactate is a salt produced by the fermentation of lactic acid. It acts as a humectant in the skin, drawing water molecules from the atmosphere towards it to plump and hydrate. It is present in the skin’s natural moisturising factor (NMF), as both sodium and lactate. Studies have shown that lactate levels in the stratum corneum directly correlate with the hydration levels within the skin, with low levels resulting in dry, rough, flaky skin. Applying this ingredient topically helps the natural water-binding capacity of the epidermis, resulting in smoother, softer, more hydrated skin.

sodium lactate

Formulated with essential skin nutrients based uniquely on your personal skin condition, our silky-smooth emulsion strengthens and repairs your skin’s barrier function. This antioxidant and vitamin-infused formula locks in moisture while replenishing and repairing weakened skin for a softer, smoother appearance.

daily protection

I have chosen this mineral formula as your daily SPF step, to provide broad-spectrum protection against UV damage.

argania spinosa kernel oil

Argan oil is derived from the nut of the Argan tree which grows in Morocco. It is naturally high in Vitamin E and fatty acids, which work to nourish the skin, protect the natural lipid barrier and provide antioxidant protection against free radicals.

avena sativa (oat) kernel extract

taurine

Titanium dioxide is a naturally-occurring mineral found in abundance on earth. It is used as a UV filter in sun protection products, as it offers broad spectrum protection against both UVB and UVA wavelengths (although marginally less broad vs. zinc oxide)

It is a white powder, and works on the skin by creating a very fine film on the skin, which due to its colour, is able to reflect a broad spectrum of UV light, preventing it from entering the skin to cause any cell damage. It has great skin compatibility so is suitable for sensitive skin types.

titanium dioxide

Mineral UV filters are naturally-occurring mineral powders, used in sun protection products to deflect UV light. They work by forming a very fine layer over the skin, which is white and therefore able to reflect the full spectrum of UV light, to offer broad-spectrum sun protection. There are currently two mineral UV filters on the market: zinc oxide and titanium dioxide.

Tocopheryl acetate is a specific form of the fat-soluble Vitamin E, with improved stability vs. Tocopherol. Vitamin E is found naturally in our own skin, and it’s main benefit is to offer powerful antioxidant protection against pollution and free radical damage. It also helps to support our skin’s natural lipid barrier, which in turn improves the hydration levels within the epidermis, as water loss through the skin is minimised.

tocopheryl acetate

trehalose

Urea is humectant ingredient found in the skin’s natural moisturising factor (NMF), making up around 7-8% of the total composition. Its humectant properties mean it can bind to water molecules in the atmosphere, drawing them to it, and in turn plumping and hydrating the skin. Research also shows that Urea has a mild exfoliating action on the skin, encouraging the removal of dead cells which results in smoother, healthier, more hydrated skin.

urea

yeast amino acids

zinc oxide

A new level of skin protection. Ultra-light 100% mineral sunscreen with Environmental Protection Technology shields skin from 5 main causes of damage that accelerate signs of aging: UVA, UVB, pollution, blue light from devices, and infrared radiation. A polymer matrix helps inhibit adhesion and penetration of toxins. Color-correcting tint evens tone and boosts radiance.

scarring

I have chosen this exfoliating gel cleanser for you, to resurface and refine the skin, reducing the appearance of enlarged pores, blackheads and blemishes, whilst giving the skin an overall radiance.

Asiatic acid is one of the active constituents found in Centella Asiatica (also known as Gotu Kola or Tiger grass). This plant has been used for centuries in Eastern medicine for it’s healing properties.

asiatic acid

Centella Asiatica (also known as Gotu Kola or Tiger grass) has been used for centuries in Eastern medicine for its healing properties. It contains phytochemicals which research shows can stimulate blood flow, strengthen the skin and provide antioxidant protection, all of which combined accelerate the wound healing process.

It is also believed to have the ability to stimulate the fibroblasts to produce type 1 collagen, which further supports wound healing as well as providing anti-ageing benefits. Collagen is also a protein whose production decreases with age, and is essential for maintaining skin firmness & smoothness, so this collagen-boosting property gives the added benefit of reducing wrinkles and firming the skin. It has also been shown to stimulate the production of hyaluronic acid in the skin, another molecule whose production slows with age, but is essential for keeping skin looking hydrated, plump & youthful.

Asiaticoside is one of the active constituents found in Centella Asiatica (also known as Gotu Kola or Tiger grass). This plant has been used for centuries in Eastern medicine for it’s healing properties.

asiaticoside

camellia sinensis leaf extract

White tea is a potent antioxidant, so is able to help protect against free radical damage. It is also thought to have anti-ageing properties by inhibiting the action of collagen and elastin-degrading enzymes in the skin.

Matricaria Chamomilla, also known as German Chamomile, is a plant highly concentrated in two active components: bisabolol and chamazulene. Bisabolol has a number of well-researched skin benefits, including as an anti-inflammatory agent, and also in promoting wound healing. Chamazulene has been shown to provide an anti-inflammatory effect by inhibiting the production of inflammatory chemicals in the body, in addition to providing antioxidant benefits to protect skin from damage from free radicals.

chamomilla recutita (matricaria) flower extract

Chamomile contains high levels of naturally-occurring compounds called terpenoids, the most famous being bisabolol. Bisabolol is known for its soothing properties, so including Chamomile extract in skincare can also provide this benefit.

Madecassic acid, a pentacyclic triterpene by classification, is one of the active constituents found in Centella Asiatica (also known as Gotu Kola or Tiger grass). This plant has been used for centuries in Eastern medicine for it’s healing properties.

madecassic acid

The name for a group of lipids comprising of a fatty acid, glycerol & phosphate. Lecithin in an example of a phospholipid.

phospholipids

Sugar Cane extract is a natural ingredient that works as a humectant when applied to the skin, meaning it draws water molecules towards it, plumping & hydrating the area. It is also the natural plant from which glycolic acid is derived, so it is thought to have some degree of exfoliating & brightening action, although there is currently insufficient research proving this.

saccharum officinarum (sugar cane) extract

Salix Alba (white willow) bark extract, is a plant extract containing naturally-occurring salicylic acid as it’s active constituent.

Salicylic acid works as an exfoliating acid to dissolve the keratin that binds the outermost layers of the skin, encouraging the natural exfoliation process of the skin. Due to its oil-soluble form, salicylic acid can penetrate inside the pore, to clear out dead skin cell build up and prevent comedones (blocked pores) from occurring, or acne-causing bacteria to overpopulate within the pore. This P.Acnes bacteria is anaerobic so needs an oxygen-free environment to thrive, and thus require a pore to be blocked.

salix alba (willow) bark extract

Willow bark contains naturally-occurring salicylic acid. Salicylic acid works as an exfoliating acid to dissolve the keratin that binds the outermost layers of the skin, encouraging the natural exfoliation process of the skin. Due to its oil-soluble form, salicylic acid can penetrate inside the pore, to clear out dead skin cell build up and prevent comedones (blocked pores) from occurring, or acne-causing bacteria to overpopulate within the pore. This P.Acnes bacteria is anaerobic so needs an oxygen-free environment to thrive, and thus require a pore to be blocked.

This clear, lightweight cleansing gel is powerful, yet gentle enough for hypersensitive skin. CLEANSING COMPLEX incorporates a balance of bio-nutrients, antioxidants, and mild resurfacing ingredients that thoroughly cleanse the surface and pores of the skin without stripping essential natural oils, leaving skin soft and smooth. CLEANSING COMPLEX is excellent as a treatment step in professional facials and is very effective for removing makeup. Excellent for all skin types and all ages, this product even helps with blemish-prone skin.

These cleansers will exfoliate the skin, decongest pores, minimise breakouts and blackheads, leaving skin clearer, smoother & more even-toned.

Resurfacing cleanser picks

A cult classic, this potent foaming gel cleanser includes sugarcane, bilberry and willowbark extracts, containing naturally-occurring AHAs and BHAs (glycolic, lactic & salicylic acids), to resurface the skin, deep clean pores and leaving the skin smoother, brighter and clearer. Fragrance free.

Designed for oily and congested skin types, this foaming gel cleanser contains a blend of PHAs (3% gluconolactone), BHAs (5% salicylic acid), and AHAs (mandelic acid) to deep the clean the skin, removing dead cell build up from the pores, and in turn reducing blemishes and blackheads.

Containing a blend of AHAs (lactic & mandelic acid), and BHAs (salicylic acid), this best-selling foaming gel formula works to exfoliate the skin, deep cleaning pores and targeting blemishes, blackheads and enlarged pores. Essential oils provide a delicate scent.

A 5* rated, creamy foaming cleanser, this formula contains 0.5% salicylic acid alongside tea tree oil as an antibacterial and prebiotics to balance the skin and further reduce blemishes.

Cruelty free

Awarded

Unfragranced

Vegan

I have chosen this ultra nourishing moisturiser for your daily routine to hydrate and plump the skin, whilst providing daily antioxidant protection. The formula is full of active Vitamins to address these skin concerns. alongside barrier-supporting and soothing actives to nourish dry skin and support the natural lipid barrier.

aloe barbadensis leaf juice

Aloe vera has been used for millennia as a natural medicine across many regions of the world, with references as early as Cleopatra using it as part of her beauty routine. It contains around 75 active constituents, including Vitamins A,C & E to provide antioxidant protection, 8 enzymes to inhibit inflammatory processes in the body and 9 different minerals to support the body’s natural functioning. It also includes sugars to provide hydrating humectant properties, fatty acids to provide anti-inflammatory & antiseptic properties, and hormones to promote wound healing. 

Sodium hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid (a polysaccharide which occurs naturally in the body), created to improve the ingredient stability. It works as an extremely powerful humectant, able to attract 1000x its own weight in water, to immediately plump and hydrate the area it is applied to. The body’s own production of hyaluronic acid slows with age, so supplementing this ingredient in topical formulations helps to support the skin’s natural moisture-binding, anti-ageing mechanisms.

sodium hyaluronate

Squalane is a natural substance usually derived from olives. It is structurally very similar to our skin’s own sebum, so is a great ingredient to support our own natural skin processes. In drier skin, which is naturally lacking in natural sebum, it helps to support the skin barrier to prevent water loss, which results in more hydrated, smooth and plump skin. Due to its sebum-mimicking structure, it is non-comedogenic, meaning it won’t cause breakouts, so is also suitable for oily and acne-prone skin. It can be a great option to reduce any over-stimulation of the sebaceous glands, which can occur with excess cleansing (and make breakouts worse). It also works to support the skin barrier to combat any drying effects caused by ingredients commonly associated with acne treatment, so is a great ingredient for all skin types.

squalane

tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate

tocopheryl linoleate/oleate

Ultra rich moisturizer helps prevent moisture loss and improves skin smoothness to restore your skin's natural beauty.

Provides intense skin hydration
Helps replenish moisture
Improves smoothness

firmness

wrinkles

This formula contains everything you need as your daily hydrator and protection step. It includes Vitamin C to help protect against UV and free radical damage and encourage collagen production in the skin to help reduce fine lines and wrinkles. It also includes broad-spectrum UV protection to reduce any further damage from sunlight.

amino acids

ginkgo biloba leaf extract

Ginkgo Biloba is a tree native to Asia, one of the oldest plant species on the planet, and rich in flavonoids and terpenoids. These provide powerful antioxidant protection, reducing potential damage caused by reactive free radicals. Studies have also shown Gingko Biloba to provide skin-smoothing and hydrating properties. 

vitis vinifera (grape) seed extract

Resveratrol in a polyphenol most famously found in the skin of red grapes, but also occurs naturally in peanuts and certain fruits such as blueberries and cranberries. It is included in skincare for its powerful antioxidant abilities - with research showing it can protect against free radicals, as well as oxidative damage caused by UV. 

Improve your skin’s defence barrier and maintain optimal hydration with Murad Enviramental Shield Essential C Day Moisture SPF 30. This powerful antioxidant-rich sunscreen shields and restores environmentally stressed skin. The increased vitamin C and SPF in Murad Enviramental Shield Essential C Day Moisture SPF 30 provides powerful protection against harmful UVA/UVB rays and free radical damage. This protective lotion features the patented Skin Repair System which improves radiance, firmness and elasticity, leaving your skin looking wonderful whilst keeping it fully protected.

I have chosen this nourishing moisturiser for your daily routine to tackle the ageing concerns you mention. Patented marine extracts work in the formula, alongside a Vitamin A derivative and a wealth of natural actives, to firm, smooth and plump the skin.

ceramide np

This luxurious cream is formulated with Alguronic Acid, nourishing Microalgae Oil, and a plant-based collagen; all naturally-sourced and sustainably produced. This vegan formula helps visibly restore the skin resiliency and elasticity. Delivering a firmer, tighter, and more toned appearance. It visibly strengthens the most fragile skin texture and softens facial contours, minimizing the appearance of fine lines and deep wrinkles to unveil skin’s youthful radiance.

I have chosen this transforming cleanser for you to remove all traces of make-up and surface debris, without disrupting the natural lipid barrier. This balm to oil to milk cleanser can be used all over the face, including the eye area to melt away make-up and leave skin feeling clean yet nourished.

Exopolysaccharides (EPS) are phytochemicals produced by Algae to protect from external stressors: UV radiation, oxidation (from free radicals) and temperature, so these provide skin-protecting benefits in skincare. Being a polysaccharide, this also offers humectant qualities, meaning it can draw water to it, plumping & hydrating the area it is applied to.

algae exopolysaccharides

chlorella protothecoides oil

This unique, luxurious melting cleanser is the best of biotechnology and offers an unparalleled sensorial experience. The powerful formula combines both Alguronic Acid, a patented anti-aging breakthrough, and a new source of nourishing oil, Microalgae Oil, to visibly replenish and smooth skin. This transforming cleanser melts into a silky oil to gently and effectively lift away all traces of long-wearing makeup. Upon contact with water, this lightweight oil turns into a milky emulsion and rinses clean to wash away impurities leaving skin beautifully cleansed, soft and radiant looking.

Oil cleansers are great for dissolving spf, impurities and make-up (including waterproof mascara) without disrupting the natural lipid barrier.

Oil cleanser picks

This gel to oil cleanser is high in avocado and sweet almond oils, to melt away all traces of makeup and spf. The brands signature Alguronic acid and Microalgae oil are also included int he formula to nourish the skin further.

uneven texture

I have chosen this gentle exfoliating cleanser to provide a gentle resurfacing action, to decongest the skin whilst adding hydration and soothing inflammation.

lactic acid - 13% combined

The Gentle Cleanser LCA fx110 from PRIORI is the ultimate smart, adaptive cleanser for all skin types. Rich and complex, this impressive formula removes impurities and debris while expertly exfoliating the surface of the skin to improve its overall tone and texture. Not only that, this innovative formula also enhances the skin’s barrier functions to improve its environmental defences. A specialist Anti-Irritant Complex calms and soothes the skin, while LCA Complex provides hydration, renewal and antioxidant protection in one.

I have chosen this resurfacing formula for your evening routine, to address some of the ageing concerns you mention. It has a high level of acids to encourage the skins natural exfoliation process, which promotes new cells to be generated underneath. It also includes a host of Vitamins (A,C,E), to provide antioxidant protection to the skin.

lca complex 16% - sodium lactate

Lactic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), which occurs naturally in the body, as well as being found in dairy products, but is typically derived synthetically for cosmetics today.

AHAs work by dissolving the keratin binding the outermost layer of skin cells, speeding up the skin’s natural exfoliation process. This leads to smoother, brighter, clearer skin, whilst reducing skin discolouration & fine lines/wrinkles with continued use. 

Silk protein is used in skincare to add hydration to the skin. It also contains antioxidants which offer protection against free radicals.

sericin

The perfect face, neck and décolleté cream that adapts to your lifestyle and delivers results at the cellular level. The ultimate resurfacing, retexturing skin corrector that provides exactly what your skin needs to boost collagen production, deep hydration and skin renewal. Wrinkles and fine lines appear visually plumped while your complexion looks more radiant. This corrective treatment is also great for sun damaged skin, acne scars or whenever your skin needs a healthy boost or stress relief.

Counter Culture

lack of radiance

loss of firmness

rough skin

This gel-to-oil cleanser effectively removes impurities and makeup while brightening and nourishing the skin. Enriched with vitamins and enzymes, it helps improve skin texture, tone, and elasticity. Ideal for brightening the skin, and improving overall moisture balance.

Oskia Renaissance Cleansing Gel 200ml.
 With Vitamins C & E, Omega 6, Starflower Oil, Pumpkin Enzymes, Chamomile & Rose
 The cult and original gel-to-oil cleanser. Melts beautifully into skin to quickly and gently remove impurities and makeup while actively illuminating and nourishing to reveal balanced, clean, fresh, radiant skin that feels soft and smooth. Wonderfully rich in vitamins and enzymes.
 A lovely deep-pink rich balmy gel-to-oil that smells of delicious Chamomile, Geranium & Rose and melts into skin. It has a fresh rose perfume, not a powdery rose tone. It turns milky when splashed with water to lift away dirt and cleanly wash away.
 Best for
 
 
 All skin types and ages. Wonderful for a gentle daily enzyme cleanser for brighter skin.
 
 
 Key benefits
 
 
 
 
 
 The original gel-oil cleanser.
 Deeply cleanses pores.
 Removes makeup and daily grime.
 Thoroughly removes dull and dead skin cells without irritation for a balanced complexion.
 Improves the appearance of sun damaged, dry and mature skin to reveal soft, supple texture.
 Fortifies and protects the skin against free radical & environmental damage.
 Improves elasticity & firmness.
 Enhances the lipid barrier to soften and nourish.
 
 Great for...
 
 Dry skin
 Dull Skin
 Pigmentation
 Acne scars
 Combination skin
 Blemished skin
 Oily skin (use with a muslin cloth)

Retinyl Palmitate

What is Retinyl Palmitate?

What does Retinyl Palmitate do?

Who is Retinyl Palmitate good for?

Who should avoid Retinyl Palmitate?

Retinyl Palmitate

What is Retinyl Palmitate?

What does Retinyl Palmitate do?

Who is Retinyl Palmitate good for?

Who should avoid Retinyl Palmitate?

Cleansers (3)

Treatments (2)

Hydrators (1)