Glycine is an amino acid that is found in glycerine and collagen, which are ingredients in many skincare products.  Glycine can improve the visible signs of aging, moisture retention, collagen production and regeneration.

Amino acids are a class of ingredients. They can also be found on ingredients lists as acetyl glucosamine,acetyl tyrosinamide, alanine, arginine hcl, arginine pca, histidine, isoleucine, lysine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine and valine and yeast amino acids.

Renude

barrier support

dull skin

fine lines

ultra dry skin

uneven texture

This overnight treatment is full of ingredients to hydrate the skin and support the skin barrier, so is a perfect add-on to your daily routine, to nourish your dry skin and leave it plump & hydrated.

Amino acids are the small building blocks that make up peptides, and proteins. Each amino acid has a unique structure, and as such plays a specific role within the body. There are around 20 different types considered to be most important for human health. In the outer layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, they are present in the ‘natural moisturising factors’, our skin’s own moisturising mechanism, and they help to support water transport between skin cells to keep our surface smooth and hydrated.

alanine

Arginine is an amino acid which occurs naturally within the human body. It is a popular ingredient in skincare for a number of reasons; it offers antioxidant protection, it hydrates the skin by stimulating the body's own production of humectants like urea and it can also repair visible skin damage.

arginine

ceramide ap

Ceramides are long chains of lipids, which occur naturally within the epidermis. Their function is to hold the skin cells together by creating a barrier against water-loss from the inside-out, and external aggressors from the outside-in. They make up almost 50% of our skins composition, but they can be depleted by UV, free radicals & pollution, and their production also naturally slows with age. This leads to an impaired skin barrier, which results in dry, rough skin with more visible wrinkling and redness. Applying ceramides topically can increase the levels of ceramides in the epidermis, and therefore supports the natural healthy functioning of the skin.

ceramide eop

ceramide np

Cholesterol is a fatty acid which occurs naturally in the skin’s lipid barrier. Applying cholesterol topically supports the skin barrier, reducing trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), and maintaining healthy skin functioning. Strengthening this lipid barrier also leads to improved skin hydration, which in turn leads to smoother, plumper, younger-looking skin.

cholesterol

Our outer layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, has a multilamellar structure (essentially a fine membrane), made up of lipids (fats), to form a non-permeable barrier. This keeps water inside the skin, and acts as the first defense against external aggressors. The lipids which make up the majority of this are known as ceramides, which are produced naturally in the body from a range of other naturally-occurring lipids, which we class here as essential lipids (not the same as essential fatty acids, which are deemed ‘essential’ as the body cannot produce these naturally.) Using these lipids in skincare helps to support the natural skin barrier, preventing water-loss to keep skin hydrated and balanced.

glycine

histidine

isoleucine

Phytosphingosine (PS) is a lipid which naturally occurs in the stratum corneum (the top, visible layer of our epidermis). This acts as a precursor for ceramide synthesis, meaning it encourages the skin to produce ceramides naturally.

Studies have also shown PS to offer anti-acne benefits, it is believed by reinforcing the protective barrier, and therefore reducing specific abnormalities in the skin functioning that lead to acne (invading inflammatory bacteria, increased keratinization, increased sebaceous gland activity).

phytosphingosine

proline

serine

Sodium hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid (a polysaccharide which occurs naturally in the body), created to improve the ingredient stability. It works as an extremely powerful humectant, able to attract 1000x its own weight in water, to immediately plump and hydrate the area it is applied to. The body’s own production of hyaluronic acid slows with age, so supplementing this ingredient in topical formulations helps to support the skin’s natural moisture-binding, anti-ageing mechanisms.

sodium hyaluronate

Hyaluronic acid is a polysaccharide which occurs naturally in the body. Hyaluronic acid works as an extremely powerful humectant, able to attract 1000x its own weight in water, to immediately plump and hydrate the area it is applied to. The body’s own production of hyaluronic acid slows with age, so supplementing this ingredient in topical formulations helps to support the skin’s natural moisture-binding, anti-ageing mechanisms.

Sodium PCA is the sodium salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA), which is found naturally in the body, and in the skin’s natural moisturising factor (NMF). PCA acts as a humectant, meaning it draws water to it, plumping and hydrating the area. The skin’s NMF ensures adequate hydration of the stratum corneum, which also works to support the overall barrier function of the skin, regulating trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL). Including Sodium PCA in skincare supports this natural mechanism of the skin.

sodium pca

Natural moisturising factor (NMF) is a substance produced by the body, made up of minerals, lactate, urea, amino acids & humectants, which coats the surface skin cells to keep them moisturised. NMF increases the skin’s ability to retain moisture, which results in more hydrated, plump, smoother skin.

Squalane is a natural substance usually derived from olives. It is structurally very similar to our skin’s own sebum, so is a great ingredient to support our own natural skin processes. In drier skin, which is naturally lacking in natural sebum, it helps to support the skin barrier to prevent water loss, which results in more hydrated, smooth and plump skin. Due to its sebum-mimicking structure, it is non-comedogenic, meaning it won’t cause breakouts, so is also suitable for oily and acne-prone skin. It can be a great option to reduce any over-stimulation of the sebaceous glands, which can occur with excess cleansing (and make breakouts worse). It also works to support the skin barrier to combat any drying effects caused by ingredients commonly associated with acne treatment, so is a great ingredient for all skin types.

squalane

threonine

valine

Forget complicated beauty jargon, The Inkey List are a no-funny-business brand who harness the power of science for effective skincare. Their Ceramide Night Treatment works to replicate the naturally occurring Ceramides in your skin, amplifying its ability to retain moisture overnight. Hydrated skin is happy skin, appearing smoother, plumper and softer. Including one of the most sought-after ingredients, hyaluronic acid, this mask offers pure hydration, locking moisture into your skin cells. What’s more, this formula fights signs of premature ageing, helping your complexion to stay youthful and supple.

Counter Culture

lack of radiance

pigmentation

rough skin

scarring

This cult hydrating serum is formulated to boost hydration, smooth texture and plump the skin. The multi-weight hyaluronic acid and Natural Moisturising Factors (NMF) provide deep hydration and support the skin barrier, while superfood antioxidants help protect the skin and improved overall radiance.

Allantoin occurs naturally in the body, but can also be derived from the root of the Comfrey plant or Chamomile, or produced synthetically. It is used in skincare for its ability to promote wound healing and healthy tissue growth, by stimulating the fibroblasts in the dermis to produce collagen and elastin fibres, essential tissues for skin regeneration and healing. Allantoin has also been shown to have soothing and anti-irritant properties, which is thought to be down to its ability to form complexes with irritating agents, thus preventing them from activating inflammatory mechanisms within the skin.

allantoin

Glycerin is a humectant present in all natural lipids. It works to attract water molecules towards it, plumping & hydrating the applied area, resulting in smooth, soft, hydrated skin. It is one of the most widely used humectants in skincare, due to it’s high performance and broad availability (making it very cost-effective). Recent research has shown that it’s ability to penetrate the layers of the skin is superior to that of low molecular weight hyaluronic acid, making it a brilliant choice for overall skin hydration, and suitable for all skin types.

glycerin

This ingredient is used in skincare for it’s hydrating abilities. It works by stimulating the production of Aquaporin 3, a natural substance found in the epidermis to regulate the movement of water between cells. An increased level of Aquaporin 3 in the skin results in improved hydration throughout the surface, and deeper layers, of the skin.

glyceryl glucoside

hyaluronic acid

Lactic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), which occurs naturally in the body, as well as being found in dairy products, but is typically derived synthetically for cosmetics today.

AHAs work by dissolving the keratin binding the outermost layer of skin cells, speeding up the skin’s natural exfoliation process. This leads to smoother, brighter, clearer skin, whilst reducing skin discolouration & fine lines/wrinkles with continued use.  

lactic acid

Lysine is used in skincare to treat hyperpigmentation & post-inflammatory acne scarring.

lysine

phenylalanine

prebiotics

soybean extract

taurine

Urea is humectant ingredient found in the skin’s natural moisturising factor (NMF), making up around 7-8% of the total composition. Its humectant properties mean it can bind to water molecules in the atmosphere, drawing them to it, and in turn plumping and hydrating the skin. Research also shows that Urea has a mild exfoliating action on the skin, encouraging the removal of dead cells which results in smoother, healthier, more hydrated skin.

urea

vitamin b5

Medik8 Hydr8 B5. Intense 30ml
 Medik8's ultimate hyaluronic acid serum that is expertly designed to unlock your skin's true hydration potential, by replenishing and recharging the skin's natural moisture network for intense visible smoothing and plumping result
 
 The silky, fast-absorbing serum slots into any skin regime needing a hydration boost, clinically proven to work instantly and over time.
 Natural Moisturising Factors (NMF) and superfood antioxidants work with multi-weight hyaluronic acid to flood the skin with moisture so that the look of crepiness and dehydration lines are drastically improved.

Unfragranced

Nut free

firmness

wrinkles

I have chosen this peptide-based serum to target the ageing concerns you mention. Loaded with various anti-ageing peptides, this works to reduce wrinkles and improve skin firmness and smoothness.

Acetylarginyltryptophyl Diphenylglycine is a synthetic tetrapeptide used in skincare for its firming abilities. It works by inhibiting the enzyme elastase, which breaks down elastin in the skin (the protein responsible for skin firmness and elasticity). This reduction in elastase allows for higher levels of elastin in the skin, which in turn leads to skin that looks firmer, tighter and restructured.

acetylarginyltryptophyl diphenylglycine

Many peptides function as anti-ageing ingredients in skincare, due to their ability to fit specific receptors in the body to trigger anti-ageing responses. This includes mechanisms like collagen production, cell regeneration or even blocking muscle contractions to smooth expression lines. Peptides are made up of amino acids, and are unique in shape, with a huge variety available to target specific responses in the body.

acetyl hexapeptide

dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate

Lactococcus Ferment Lysate is a post-biotic ingredient derived from Gram-positive bacteria, Lactococcus lactis. It is used in skincare for its ability to increase the speed of epidermal growth, leading to a thicker stratum corneum (outermost layer of the skin), and in turn better barrier function. This is seen as healthier-looking, more hydrated and supple skin.

lactococcus ferment lysate

Probiotics can be defined as living bacteria which are good for the skin, and are useful to include in skincare formulations in order to populate a healthy microbiome (the ecosystem of bacteria on the skin). A diverse breadth in the strains of bacteria living on the skin results in a healthy microbiome, and some early research has linked certain imbalances in this microbiome to skin conditions such as acne, ezcema and psoriasis.

palmitoyl tetrapeptide

pentapeptide

Sodium Hyaluronate crosspolymer is a modified version of Hyaluronic acid, with additional polymers added to it to slow skin penetration, keeping it in the upper layers of the epidermis for longer to provide surface hydration.

sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer

This formula combines a comprehensive array of studied technologies to target multiple signs of aging at once. The technologies are Matrixyl™ 3000 peptide complex (with palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7), Matrixyl™ synthe'6™ peptide complex (with palmitoyl tripeptide-38), SYN™-AKE peptide complex (with dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate), Relistase peptide complex (with acetylarginyltryptophyl diphenylglycine), ARGIRELOX™ peptide complex (with acetyl hexapeptide-8, pentapeptide-18), Probiotic complex (with lactococcus lactis lysate), in a base of 11 skin-friendly amino acids and multiple hyaluronic acid complexes. The total concentration of these technologies in the formula by weight is 25.1%.

Vegan

blackheads

blemishes

enlarged pores

loss of firmness

This exfoliating toner targets blemishes and congestion with 2% salicylic acid to unclog pores and reduce excess sebum. Colloidal silver and Pro-Vit D3 provide anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory benefits, promoting a clearer and calmer complexion.

Ascorbyl palmitate is an oil-soluble Vitamin C ester, produced by the reaction of ascorbic acid and palmitic acid. This oil-soluble form works to improve stability against oxidation (something L-ascorbic acid is notorious for), as well as improve skin affinity to allow the ingredient to penetrate further.

ascorbyl palmitate

Vitamin C has many skin benefits, including its action as an antioxidant, to neutralise free radicals (reactive molecules with an unpaired electron), preventing them from causing damage to cells within the body. Vitamin C is also involved in the collagen-production process, so provides anti-wrinkle activity through this mechanism. Lastly, Vitamin C inhibits the enzyme tyrosinase, which is involved in melanin-synthesis, and can therefore visibly reduce areas of hyperpigmentation in the skin.

Gluconolactone is a poly hydroxy acid (PHA). PHAs work by gently dissolving the keratin that binds our outermost layer of skin cells, encouraging the natural exfoliation process of the skin, leading to smoother, clearer skin. This process also encourages new skin cell generation in the basal layer of the epidermis, a process which naturally slows with age, so with repeated use this can have an overall anti-ageing effect on the skin. Gluconolactone has also been shown to inhibit the enzyme elastase, which breaks down elastin in the skin (an essential protein produced by the fibroblasts), leading to sagging of the skin.

PHAs are much larger in molecular weight vs AHAs so they cannot penetrate the skin as fast or as far, which therefore makes more gentle & suitable for more sensitive skin types, including those with rosacea-prone skin. Gluconolactone is also especially good for drier skin types as it also has natural humectant qualities, meaning it draws water towards it, hydrating the skin from within. 

gluconolactone

Polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) work by gently dissolving the keratin that binds our outermost layer of skin cells, encouraging the natural exfoliation process of the skin, leading to smoother, clearer skin. This process also encourages new skin cell generation in the basal layer of the epidermis, a process which naturally slows with age, so with repeated use this can have an overall anti-ageing effect on the skin. Gluconolactone has also been shown to inhibit the enzyme elastase, which breaks down elastin in the skin (an essential protein produced by the fibroblasts), leading to sagging of the skin.

PHAs are much larger in molecular weight vs AHAs so they cannot penetrate the skin as fast or as far, which therefore makes more gentle & suitable for more sensitive skin types, including those with rosacea-prone skin. Gluconolactone is also especially good for drier skin types as it also has natural humectant qualities, meaning it draws water towards it, hydrating the skin from within. 

green algae

horse chesnut extract

Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA), which occurs naturally in willow bark. Salicylic acid works as an exfoliating acid to dissolve the keratin that binds the outermost layers of the skin, encouraging the natural exfoliation process of the skin.

Due to its oil-soluble form, salicylic acid can penetrate inside the pore, to clear out dead skin cell build up and prevent comedones (blocked pores) from occurring, or acne-causing bacteria to overpopulate within the pore. This P.Acnes bacteria is anaerobic so needs an oxygen-free environment to thrive, and thus require a pore to be blocked.

salicylic acid

Sodium lactate is a salt produced by the fermentation of lactic acid. It acts as a humectant in the skin, drawing water molecules from the atmosphere towards it to plump and hydrate. It is present in the skin’s natural moisturising factor (NMF), as both sodium and lactate. Studies have shown that lactate levels in the stratum corneum directly correlate with the hydration levels within the skin, with low levels resulting in dry, rough, flaky skin. Applying this ingredient topically helps the natural water-binding capacity of the epidermis, resulting in smoother, softer, more hydrated skin.

sodium lactate

vitamin e

Oskia Violet Water BHA Tonic 100ml.
 
 With 2% Salicylic Acid, Colloidal Silver, Pro-Vit D3, Yuzu & Violet Willow
 CLEARING - EXFOLIATING - BRIGHTENING
 A purifying exfoliating treatment tonic, containing 31 actives, to support, clear and brighten congested skin. Helps unclog pores and reduce the appearance of blemishes to keep skin clearer, calmer, brighter and nurtured, revealing a healthier-looking complexion.
 
 
 Up to 35% reduction in blemishes after 2 weeks, 58% after 4 weeks and 98% reduction of c.acne bacteria
 
 Independent clinical trials over 4 weeks on 30 subjects with oily/acne prone skin when using the complete Violet Water range. Aged 18-50. Mixed Fitzpatrick 1 - 6 (20% being Fitzpatrick 6). Mixed ethnicity.
 
 
 Best for
 Congested, hormonal or oily skins, or during warmer months to keep skin clear and bright.
 
 
 
 Key benefits
 
 
 
 
 Targets the five key concerns associated with oily, blemish prone skin, and much more...
 
 Helps unclog pores and keep them clear and healthy.
 Anti-bacterial.
 Anti-inflammatory.
 Helps reduce excess sebum production.
 Soothes and calms.
 Supports and encourages the natural repair and regeneration process.
 
 Fragrance free but with a natural scent of fruits and rose.

I have chosen this active-packed anti-ageing cream to target the concerns you have around wrinkles & skin firmness. The product contains a host of peptides and amino acids, to trigger the production of collagen within the skin, alongside gentle PHAs for mild resurfacing, and plant antioxidants to protect the skin from free radical damage.

Acetyl Glucosamine is an amino acid sugar

acetyl glucosamine

acetyl tyrosinamide

Maltobionic acid is a non-irritating poly hydroxy acid (PHA) derived from natural sugars. PHAs provide a gentle exfoliation of the skin, encouraging dead cells to be shed from the surface, and new cells to be produced in the basal layer of the epidermis. This process leads to smoother, less congested & more radiant skin, whilst reducing discolouration & fine lines to provide visible anti-ageing results.

Maltobionic acid is also an antioxidant, protecting skin from harmful effects of free radicals within the body, as well as inhibiting specific enzymes which lead to degradation of our skin proteins, so this mechanism keeps skin more youthful. Maltobionic acid also has humectant qualities, meaning it is able to draw water molecules to it, plumping & hydrating the area which it is applied. It was patented in 2000 by Neostrata, as one of their ‘Bionic acids’.

maltobionic acid

Polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) work by gently dissolving the keratin that binds our outermost layer of skin cells, encouraging the natural exfoliation process of the skin, leading to smoother, clearer skin. This process also encourages new skin cell generation in the basal layer of the epidermis, a process which naturally slows with age, so with repeated use this can have an overall anti-ageing effect on the skin. Gluconolactone has also been shown to inhibit the enzyme elastase, which breaks down elastin in the skin (an essential protein produced by the fibroblasts), leading to sagging of the skin.

PHAs are much larger in molecular weight vs AHAs so they cannot penetrate the skin as fast or as far, which therefore makes more gentle & suitable for more sensitive skin types, including those with rosacea-prone skin. Gluconolactone is also especially good for drier skin types as it also has natural humectant qualities, meaning it draws water towards it, hydrating the skin from within.

palmitoyl tripeptide

vitis vinifera (grape) seed extract

Resveratrol in a polyphenol most famously found in the skin of red grapes, but also occurs naturally in peanuts and certain fruits such as blueberries and cranberries. It is included in skincare for its powerful antioxidant abilities - with research showing it can protect against free radicals, as well as oxidative damage caused by UV. 

Intensively moisturizes and hydrates, reduces the appearance of wrinkles. Overall skin appears smoother, brighter, more radiant and firm. Contains the building blocks of skin’s Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF). Oil-free, non-comedogenic.

Peptides can stimulate specific mechanisms in the skin (e.g. collagen production), so are great ingredients for keeping skin looking youthful for longer.

Youth-boosting moisturiser picks

This formula has been clinically proven to lift, firm and add volume to the skin. It contains high levels of maltobionic acid to gently resurface, smooth & brighten the skin, alongside anti-ageing peptides to firm and lift, and acetyl glucosamine to brighten and natural resveratrol (from grape extract), to act as a powerful antioxidant. Oil free, non-comedogenic.

Packed with naturally-occurring constituents of the skin barrier, such as ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids, this formula is great for nourishing drier skin or supporting strong actives like retinoids or acids in your routine. It also contains peptides to firm, acetyl glucosamine to brighten, and dragonfruit extract to tighten.

This rich cream works by delivering hyaluronic acid into the skin, whilst stimulating the skins own production of this powerful humectant to deliver long term hydration to the skin. It also works to plump the skin, boost radiance and provide visible anti-ageing effects, with a user trial showing that after 4 weeks, 82% agreed their wrinkles appeared reduced.

Nourishing, yet quick to absorb, this fuss-free moisturiser contains two different peptides, to firm skin and reduce fine lines. Alongside this, glycerin as a humectant to hydrate, and Vitamin E as an antioxidant.

This afforable nourishing formula contains a blend of ingredients to support overall skin health. A seaweed-derived collagen works to plump and hydrate the skin, lactic acid gently exfoliates, magnesium pca boosts radiance and shea butter nourishes.

Glycine

What is Glycine?

What does Glycine do?

Who is Glycine good for?

Who should avoid Glycine?

Glycine

What is Glycine?

What does Glycine do?

Who is Glycine good for?

Who should avoid Glycine?

Treatments (3)

Hydrators (1)