Ingredients in Skincare

Maltobionic Acid

Maltobionic acid is a non-irritating poly hydroxy acid (PHA) derived from natural sugars. PHAs provide a gentle exfoliation of the skin, encouraging dead cells to be shed from the surface, and new cells to be produced in the basal layer of the epidermis. This process leads to smoother, less congested & more radiant skin, whilst reducing discolouration & fine lines to provide visible anti-ageing results. Maltobionic acid is also an antioxidant, protecting skin from harmful effects of free radicals within the body, as well as inhibiting specific enzymes which lead to degradation of our skin proteins, so this mechanism keeps skin more youthful. Maltobionic acid also has humectant qualities, meaning it is able to draw water molecules to it, plumping & hydrating the area which it is applied. It was patented in 2000 by Neostrata, as one of their ‘Bionic acids’. Maltobionic acid is in a class of polyhydroxy acid ingredients also known by gluconolactone and lactobionic acid.

Chondrus Crispus

Algae

Algae is an incredibly interesting natural ingredient source. There are many types of algae (kelp, laminaria, microalgae) but in general in all its forms, it acts as a powerful antioxidant, protecting from free radical damage, as well as being able to hydrate the skin and deliver naturally-occurring vitamins into the skin. It is in the class of Algae Extract which also include ahnfeltia concinna extract, alaria esculenta extract, algae exopolysaccharides, algin, alteromonas ferment extract, ascophyllum nodosum extract, asparagopsis armata extract, chlorella protothecoides, vibrio alginolyticus ferment filtrate, dunaliella salina (green algae) extract, hydrolyzed f-fucoidan, laminaria ochroleuca (kelp) extract, macrocystis pyrifera (kelp) extract, marine extract, parachlorella beijerinckii exopolysaccharides, padina pavonica thallus extract, plankton extract, porphyridium cruentum extract, pseudoalteromonas exopolysaccharides, tripleurospermum maritimum extract, chlorella protothecoides oil and chlorella protothecoides oil.

Neoglucosamine

A patented non-amino acid sugar which gently exfoliates the skin, reduces fine lines and wrinkles and evens out skin tone. It is also a building block of our skin’s natural hyaluronic acid so helps to plump and firm the skin.

Sh-Oligopeptide

In It's raw form, oligopeptide is a white powder. Most of the research has been conducted by the labs that manufacture it; however, there are promising studies showing it can help manage acne-causing bacteria, both on its own and in conjunction with anti-acne superstar exfoliant salicylic acid.

Fernblock

Fernblock

Known as FernBlock, this is a patented active from Heliocare, developed alongside Harvard medical school. It is derived from a tropical fern native to South America, and works by protecting against UVB-induced sunburn, as well as protecting against UVA and Infrared wavelengths. The active is also able to support cell renewal and protect from cumulative damage caused by sun exposure (such as ageing and DNA damage). It is an antioxidant, protecting against free radicals, and has been shown to boost production of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid in the skin.

Ethylhexyl Salicylate

Ethylhexyl Salicylate

Ethylhexyl Salicylate is a synthetic UV filter used in sun care products to protect against UVB radiation to offer SPF protection to the skin. Other ingredients in the class of synthetic UV filters include bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl triazone, homosalate, octinoxate, octisalate, octocrylene and triazine diethyl butamidotriazone.

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide is a synthetic peptide composed of the amino acids glutamine, glycine, arginine, and proline. Along with the four amino acids, this peptide also contains the fatty acid palmitic acid to enhance stability and penetration into the skin.

Phytosphingosine

Phytosphingosine

Phytosphingosine (PS) is a lipid which naturally occurs in the stratum corneum (the top, visible layer of our epidermis). This acts as a precursor for ceramide synthesis, meaning it encourages the skin to produce ceramides naturally. Studies have also shown PS to offer anti-acne benefits, it is believed by reinforcing the protective barrier, and therefore reducing specific abnormalities in the skin functioning that lead to acne (invading inflammatory bacteria, increased keratinization, increased sebaceous gland activity). It is in the same class of essential lipids that include caprooyl phytosphingosine, caprooyl sphingosine, cholesterol, glycolipids, glycoproteins, glycosphingolipids, lecithin, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and phospholipids.

Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Part of the Vitamin C family of ingredients, L-ascorbic acid is designed to improve its stability and skin penetration abilities, to achieve optimum skin benefits. Once absorbed into the skin, the ethyl group is removed, and l-ascorbic acid is returned to its active form, where it can best support the skin to achieve visible brightening & anti-ageing results. Vitamin C can also be found on ingredients lists as ascorbic acid, ascorbyl glucoside, ascorbyl palmitate, l-ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate and tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate.

Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract

Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract

Padina pavonica, also known as peacocks tail, is a brown algae native to the Mediterranean coast. It is rich in polysaccharides, which provide humectant properties, meaning they can draw water molecules to them to plump & hydrate the surrounding area. It is also shown to have anti-pollution effects, protecting skin against free radical and heavy metal exposure. It is in the class of Algae Extract which also include ahnfeltia concinna extract, alaria esculenta extract, algae exopolysaccharides, algin, alteromonas ferment extract, ascophyllum nodosum extract, asparagopsis armata extract, chlorella protothecoides, chlorella vulgaris extract, dunaliella salina (green algae) extract, hydrolyzed f-fucoidan, laminaria ochroleuca (kelp) extract, macrocystis pyrifera (kelp) extract, marine extract, parachlorella beijerinckii exopolysaccharides, plankton extract, porphyridium cruentum extract, pseudoalteromonas exopolysaccharides, tripleurospermum maritimum extract, vibrio alginolyticus ferment filtrate, chlorella protothecoides oil

L-Ascorbic Acid

L-Ascorbic Acid

Part of the Vitamin C family of ingredients, L-ascorbic acid is Vitamin C in its purest form, and the active form required by the body to result in the many skin skin benefits of Vitamin C. The issue with L-ascorbic acid is in the delivery, as it is very unstable in water, and needs a pH 4 or below for it to penetrate the skin. That being said, when it can be stabilised in a formula and is able to penetrate the skin, it provides the highest potency of any form of Vitamin C currently available. Vitamin C can also be found on ingredients lists as ascorbic acid, ascorbyl glucoside, ascorbyl palmitate, ethyl ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate and tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate.

Turmeric Root Extract

Turmeric Root Extract

Turmeric is known for its powerful anti-inflammatory properties, which help to soothe and calm skin irritation. It also has antioxidant properties to help protect against free radical damage.

Sodium Lactate

Sodium lactate is in a class of ingredients that can be found on ingredients lists as natural moisturising factors, sodium PCA or trehalose.

Valine

Valine

It's a branched chain amino acid that is claimed to enhance energy, increase endurance and aid in muscle tissue recovery and repair when taken as a supplement. In skincare, Valine helps to keep the skin hydrated and to protect against external aggressors. Amino acids are a class of ingredients. They can also be found on ingredients lists as acetyl glucosamine,acetyl tyrosinamide, alanine, arginine hcl, arginine pca, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, proline, serine and valine and yeast amino acids.

Retinyl Propionate

Retinyl Propionate

Retinyl Propionate is a part of the vitamin A family of ingredients and is an ester of retinol and propionic acid. It is designed to have better skin tolerability vs. retinol. Once absorbed, it is broken down in the body to retinol, then into retinaldehyde, and then again into retinoic acid, the active form recognised by the body to trigger it’s skin benefits. Studies have shown levels of 0.3% or higher are required to see benefits comparable with retinol. It is part of a family of ingredients also found on ingredients lists as encapsulated retinaldehyde, hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinaldehyde, retinyl palmitate, retinyl propionate and retinyl retinoate (8x more powerful than retinol)