Explore breakdowns of the skincare ingredients featured in our personalised Renude routines. Learn their benefits, functions, and who they're suitable for.
Maltobionic acid is a non-irritating poly hydroxy acid (PHA) derived from natural sugars. PHAs provide a gentle exfoliation of the skin, encouraging dead cells to be shed from the surface, and new cells to be produced in the basal layer of the epidermis. This process leads to smoother, less congested & more radiant skin, whilst reducing discolouration & fine lines to provide visible anti-ageing results. Maltobionic acid is also an antioxidant, protecting skin from harmful effects of free radicals within the body, as well as inhibiting specific enzymes which lead to degradation of our skin proteins, so this mechanism keeps skin more youthful. Maltobionic acid also has humectant qualities, meaning it is able to draw water molecules to it, plumping & hydrating the area which it is applied. It was patented in 2000 by Neostrata, as one of their ‘Bionic acids’. Maltobionic acid is in a class of polyhydroxy acid ingredients also known by gluconolactone and lactobionic acid.
Palmitoyl oligopeptides are peptide or small proteins, characterized by a generic structure of a string of amino acids. Generally, palmitoyl oligopeptides have similar uses in skincare, and cosmetic formulations are often used as an anti-aging ingredient. They are thought to be beneficial in anti-aging formulations due to their potential to help stimulate collagen production and promote healthy cell functioning. It is in a class of ingredients also found on ingredients lists as acetylarginyltryptophyl diphenylglycine, acetyl tetrapeptide, arginine/lysine polypeptide, azelaoyl bis-dipeptide, copper heptapeptide-14 pantothenate, dipeptide, dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, ferric hexapeptide, heptapeptide-15, palmitate, myristol hexapeptide, myristol pentapeptide, myristoyl nonapeptide, myristoyl pentapeptide, oligopeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl heptapeptide, palmitoyl hexapeptide, palmitoyl nonapeptide, palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl pentapeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, pentapeptide, sh-oligopeptide, tetrapeptide and copper palmitoyl heptapeptide.
Macrocystis Pyrifera (Kelp) Extract
Macrocystis pyrifera extract is a type of seaweed rich in multiple beneficial ingredients. Its primary value in skin care comes from its antioxidant properties. It is in the class of Algae Extract which also include ahnfeltia concinna extract, alaria esculenta extract, algae exopolysaccharides, algin, alteromonas ferment extract, alteromonas ferment extract, ascophyllum nodosum extract, asparagopsis armata extract, chlorella protothecoides, chlorella vulgaris extract, dunaliella salina (green algae) extract, hydrolyzed f-fucoidan, laminaria ochroleuca (kelp) extract, and marine extract.
Lactobacillus Ferment
Lactobacillus ferment is a probiotic, with a number of skin benefits. It was first shown by Estee Lauder to protect against environmental aggressors by supporting DNA repair within the cell. It was later shown to have powerful anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial effects, with research indicating it being particularly beneficial for those with acne or rosacea. The manufacturer of the ingredient, Barnet, has confirmed the mechanism of this is by suppressing the growth of harmful bacteria associated with these conditions, and encouraging the diversity of growth of beneficial skin microbiota. Lactobacillus ferment sits in a class of probiotic ingredients which can be found on ingredients lists as bifida ferment lysate and lactococcus ferment lysate.
Serine
Serine is a non-essential amino acid and serves as a water-binding ingredient. It's great for moisturising dry and dehydrated skin and serves as an antioxidant against external factors. Amino acids are a class of ingredients. They can also be found on ingredients lists as acetyl glucosamine,acetyl tyrosinamide, alanine, arginine hcl, arginine pca, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine and valine and yeast amino acids.
Leucine
Leucine is an amino acid that has anti-aging properties. It is used in anti-aging skin care products and is thought to help regenerate aging skin and reduce fine lines and sagging skin. It is said to create firmer, more supple skin and increase elasticity by repairing aging skin tissue. Amino acids are a class of ingredients. They can also be found on ingredients lists as acetyl glucosamine,acetyl tyrosinamide, alanine, arginine hcl, arginine pca, histidine, isoleucine, lysine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine and valine and yeast amino acids.
Octocrylene
Octocrylene is a synthetic UV filter used in sun care products to provide protection against UVB rays with wavelengths between 290-320 nm. Other ingredients in the class of synthetic UV filters include bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyl triazone, homosalate, octinoxate, octisalate and triazine diethyl butamidotriazone.
Valine
It's a branched chain amino acid that is claimed to enhance energy, increase endurance and aid in muscle tissue recovery and repair when taken as a supplement. In skincare, Valine helps to keep the skin hydrated and to protect against external aggressors. Amino acids are a class of ingredients. They can also be found on ingredients lists as acetyl glucosamine,acetyl tyrosinamide, alanine, arginine hcl, arginine pca, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, proline, serine and valine and yeast amino acids.
Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract
Padina pavonica, also known as peacocks tail, is a brown algae native to the Mediterranean coast. It is rich in polysaccharides, which provide humectant properties, meaning they can draw water molecules to them to plump & hydrate the surrounding area. It is also shown to have anti-pollution effects, protecting skin against free radical and heavy metal exposure. It is in the class of Algae Extract which also include ahnfeltia concinna extract, alaria esculenta extract, algae exopolysaccharides, algin, alteromonas ferment extract, ascophyllum nodosum extract, asparagopsis armata extract, chlorella protothecoides, chlorella vulgaris extract, dunaliella salina (green algae) extract, hydrolyzed f-fucoidan, laminaria ochroleuca (kelp) extract, macrocystis pyrifera (kelp) extract, marine extract, parachlorella beijerinckii exopolysaccharides, plankton extract, porphyridium cruentum extract, pseudoalteromonas exopolysaccharides, tripleurospermum maritimum extract, vibrio alginolyticus ferment filtrate, chlorella protothecoides oil
Many peptides function as anti-ageing ingredients in skincare, due to their ability to fit specific receptors in the body to trigger anti-ageing responses. This includes mechanisms like collagen production, cell regeneration or even blocking muscle contractions to smooth expression lines. Peptides are made up of amino acids, and are unique in shape, with a huge variety available to target specific responses in the body. Heptapeptide-15 palmitate is in a class of ingredients also found on ingredients lists as acetyl hexapeptide, acetyl tetrapeptide, acetylarginyltryptophyl diphenylglycine, arginine/lysine polypeptide, azelaoyl bis-dipeptide, copper heptapeptide-14 pantothenate, dipeptide, dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, ferric hexapeptide, heptapeptide-15, palmitate, myristol hexapeptide, myristol pentapeptide, myristoyl nonapeptide, myristoyl pentapeptide, oligopeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl decapeptide, palmitoyl heptapeptide, palmitoyl hexapeptide, palmitoyl nonapeptide, palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl pentapeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, pentapeptide, sh-oligopeptide, tetrapeptide and copper palmitoyl heptapeptide.
Phytosphingosine
Phytosphingosine (PS) is a lipid which naturally occurs in the stratum corneum (the top, visible layer of our epidermis). This acts as a precursor for ceramide synthesis, meaning it encourages the skin to produce ceramides naturally. Studies have also shown PS to offer anti-acne benefits, it is believed by reinforcing the protective barrier, and therefore reducing specific abnormalities in the skin functioning that lead to acne (invading inflammatory bacteria, increased keratinization, increased sebaceous gland activity). It is in the same class of essential lipids that include caprooyl phytosphingosine, caprooyl sphingosine, cholesterol, glycolipids, glycoproteins, glycosphingolipids, lecithin, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and phospholipids.
Sodium lactate is in a class of ingredients that can be found on ingredients lists as natural moisturising factors, sodium PCA or trehalose.
Categorized as a “messenger peptide” because of its ability to “tell” skin how to look better, specifically regarding reducing signs of sun damage like wrinkles and rough texture. Some research has shown that palmitoyl tripeptide has similar anti-aging benefits to retinol.
Chlorella Vulgaris Extract
In skin care products, algae extract has several functions, including as a thickening agent, water-binding agent, and antioxidant. Chlorella vulgaris extract has been shown to stimulate collagen synthesis. It is in the class of Algae Extract which also include ahnfeltia concinna extract, alaria esculenta extract, algae exopolysaccharides, algin, alteromonas ferment extract, alteromonas ferment extract, ascophyllum nodosum extract, asparagopsis armata extract, chlorella protothecoides, dunaliella salina (green algae) extract, hydrolyzed f-fucoidan, laminaria ochroleuca (kelp) extract, macrocystis pyrifera (kelp) extract, and marine extract.
Glycolipids
Glycolipids are made up of a sugar monomer (monosaccharide) and a lipid. This is the umbrella term encompassing ceramides, sphingoids & sterols. Glycolipids is in the class of essential lipids, it can be found on ingredient lists as caprooyl phytosphingosine, caprooyl sphingosine, cholesterol, glycoproteins, glycosphingolipids, lecithin, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, phospholipids and phytosphingosine.
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