Ingredients in Skincare

Linoleic Acid

Linoleic Acid

Linoleic Acid is an Omega 6 essential fatty acid (EFA), found in many plant oils: corn, safflower & sunflower. Linoleic acid forms the fatty acid based of Ceramides EOH, EOS and EOP, which are essential for the normal functioning of the skin barrier. Applying linoleic acid topically helps to support ceramide functioning within the skin, leading to improved skin hydration and smoothness. Research also shows that sebum in acne-prone skin can be lacking in Omega 6 (with too much Omega 3), so there is evidence to suggest applying this topically can help to balance the sebum composition and in turn reduce acne lesions. Linoleic Acid is in the class of essential lipids, and can be found on ingredient lists as caprooyl phytosphingosine, caprooyl sphingosine, cholesterol, glycolipids, glycoproteins, glycosphingolipids, Lecithin, linolenic acid, phospholipids and phytosphingosine.

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide is a synthetic peptide composed of the amino acids glutamine, glycine, arginine, and proline. Along with the four amino acids, this peptide also contains the fatty acid palmitic acid to enhance stability and penetration into the skin.

Phytosphingosine

Phytosphingosine

Phytosphingosine (PS) is a lipid which naturally occurs in the stratum corneum (the top, visible layer of our epidermis). This acts as a precursor for ceramide synthesis, meaning it encourages the skin to produce ceramides naturally. Studies have also shown PS to offer anti-acne benefits, it is believed by reinforcing the protective barrier, and therefore reducing specific abnormalities in the skin functioning that lead to acne (invading inflammatory bacteria, increased keratinization, increased sebaceous gland activity). It is in the same class of essential lipids that include caprooyl phytosphingosine, caprooyl sphingosine, cholesterol, glycolipids, glycoproteins, glycosphingolipids, lecithin, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and phospholipids.

Retinyl Palmitate

Retinyl Palmitate

Retinyl Palmitate is a part of the vitamin A family of ingredients. It is broken down in the body to retinol, and then into retinaldehyde, then again into retinoic acid, the active form recognised by the body to trigger its skin benefits. It is part of a family of ingredients also found on ingredients lists as encapsulated retinaldehyde, hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinaldehyde, retinol, retinyl propionate and retinyl retinoate (8x more powerful than retinol)

Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Part of the Vitamin C family of ingredients, L-ascorbic acid is designed to improve its stability and skin penetration abilities, to achieve optimum skin benefits. Once absorbed into the skin, the ethyl group is removed, and l-ascorbic acid is returned to its active form, where it can best support the skin to achieve visible brightening & anti-ageing results. Vitamin C can also be found on ingredients lists as ascorbic acid, ascorbyl glucoside, ascorbyl palmitate, l-ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate and tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate.

Caprooyl Phytosphingosine

Caprooyl Phytosphingosine

Caprooyl Phytosphingosine is a mixture of fatty acids Caproic acid and Phytosphingosine. It acts as a precursor for ceramide synthesis, meaning it encourages the skin to produce ceramides naturally. The function of ceramides is to hold the skin cells together by creating a barrier against water-loss from the inside-out, and external aggressors from the outside-in. They make up almost 50% of our skins composition, but they can be depleted by UV, free radicals & pollution, and their production also naturally slows with age. This leads to an impaired skin barrier, which results in dry, rough skin with more visible wrinkling and redness. Encouraging the skin’s natural production of ceramides leads to an improved skin barrier, resulting in smoother, more hydrated, younger-looking skin. Caprooyl phytosphingosine is in the class of essential lipids, it can be found on ingredient lists as caprooyl sphingosine, cholesterol, glycolipids, glycoproteins, glycosphingolipids, lecithin, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, phospholipids and phytosphingosine.

Glycosphingolipids

Glycosphingolipids are naturally occurring in the skin and are involved in the skin’s natural ceramide-production process. It in the class of essential lipids, and can be found on ingredient lists as caprooyl phytosphingosine, caprooyl sphingosine, cholesterol, glycolipids, glycoproteins, lecithin, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, phospholipids and phytosphingosine.

Caprooyl Sphingosine

Caprooyl Sphingosine

Caprooyl Sphingosine is a mixture of fatty acids Caproic acid and Sphingosine. It acts as a precursor for ceramide synthesis, meaning it encourages the skin to produce ceramides naturally. The function of ceramides is to hold the skin cells together by creating a barrier against water-loss from the inside-out, and external aggressors from the outside-in. They make up almost 50% of our skins composition, but they can be depleted by UV, free radicals & pollution, and their production also naturally slows with age. This leads to an impaired skin barrier, which results in dry, rough skin with more visible wrinkling and redness. Encouraging the skin’s natural production of ceramides leads to an improved skin barrier, resulting in smoother, more hydrated, younger-looking skin. Caprooyl sphingosine is in the class of essential lipids, it can be found on ingredient lists as caprooyl phytosphingosine, cholesterol, glycolipids, glycoproteins, glycosphingolipids, lecithin, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, phospholipids and phytosphingosine.

Lecithin

Lecithin

Lecithin can be classed as a phospholipid, which occurs naturally in eggs, soybean, sunflower oil and corn. It contains a high concentration of fatty acids, which support the skin’s natural barrier by creating a lipid film to prevent transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Lecithin also has lipophilic & hydrophilic properties, meaning it can function as an emulsifier and skin penetration-enhancer, helping to deliver actives deeper into the skin. Lecithin is in the class of essential lipids, and can be found on ingredient lists as caprooyl phytosphingosine, caprooyl sphingosine, cholesterol, glycolipids, glycoproteins, glycosphingolipids, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, phospholipids and phytosphingosine.

Retinyl Retinoate

Retinyl Retinoate (8X More Powerful Than Retinol)

Retinyl retinoate is a part of the vitamin A family of ingredients, which combines retinol with retinoic acid. Research shows that this makes it more stable in the delivery (a common problem with either active alone), as well as more potent and less irritating. It is broken down by the body in two stages - first into retinol and retinoic acid, then the retinol is broken down again into retinoic acid, so essentially packing double the punch. Studies carried out comparing this to pure retinol showed significantly more effective and faster results, with comparable side effects. It is part of a family of ingredients also found on ingredients lists as encapsulated retinaldehyde, hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinaldehyde, retinyl palmitate and retinyl propionate.

Chlorella Vulgaris Extract

Chlorella Vulgaris Extract

In skin care products, algae extract has several functions, including as a thickening agent, water-binding agent, and antioxidant. Chlorella vulgaris extract has been shown to stimulate collagen synthesis. It is in the class of Algae Extract which also include ahnfeltia concinna extract, alaria esculenta extract, algae exopolysaccharides, algin, alteromonas ferment extract, alteromonas ferment extract, ascophyllum nodosum extract, asparagopsis armata extract, chlorella protothecoides, dunaliella salina (green algae) extract, hydrolyzed f-fucoidan, laminaria ochroleuca (kelp) extract, macrocystis pyrifera (kelp) extract, and marine extract.

Guarana Extract

Guarana extract is derived from the seeds of the guarana plant (Paullinia cupana), which is native to the Amazon rainforest. It is used in skincare for its potential energizing, antioxidant, and skin-conditioning properties.

Laminaria Ochroleuca (Kelp) Extract

Laminaria Ochroleuca (Kelp) Extract

A type of kelp that helps soothe skin and offers hydration-enhancing properties, it can also play a role in reinforcing skin’s barrier and warding off environmental stressors. Researchers note that this ingredient is particularly useful for those prone to sensitive skin. It is in the class of Algae Extract which also include ahnfeltia concinna extract, alaria esculenta extract, algae exopolysaccharides, algin, alteromonas ferment extract, alteromonas ferment extract, ascophyllum nodosum extract, asparagopsis armata extract, chlorella protothecoides, chlorella vulgaris extract, dunaliella salina (green algae) extract, hydrolyzed f-fucoidan, macrocystis pyrifera (kelp) extract, and marine extract.

Luffa Cylindrica Extract

Luffa Cylindrica Extract, also known as sponge gourd or loofah, is derived from the fruit of the Luffa cylindrica plant. In skincare, this extract is used for its potential exfoliating, cleansing, and skin-smoothing properties.

Lactobacillus Extract Filtrate

Lactobacillus Extract Filtrate

Lactobacillus Extract Filtrate is a cell-free extract (CFE) of the lactobacillus microorganism. This means it is no longer a living bacteria (probiotic), but an extract of a once-living bacteria, which functions as a prebiotic. This active has been shown via clinical studies from the manufacturer, Evonik, to encourage the growth of beneficial skin bacteria, as well as support the natural skin barrier function, helping to protect against skin roughness and dryness. Lactobacillus extract filtrate is in a class of prebiotic ingredients and can be found on ingredients lists as alpha-glucan oligosaccharide, fructooligosaccharides, rhamnose and saccharomyces cerevisiae (yeast) extract.