Ingredients in Skincare

Oligopeptide

Oligopeptides are short chains of amino acids that can mimic the natural DNA structure and interfere with the ageing process. It is in a class of ingredients also found on ingredients lists as acetylarginyltryptophyl diphenylglycine, acetyl tetrapeptide, arginine/lysine polypeptide, azelaoyl bis-dipeptide, copper heptapeptide-14 pantothenate, dipeptide, dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, ferric hexapeptide, heptapeptide-15, palmitate, myristol hexapeptide, myristol pentapeptide, myristoyl nonapeptide, myristoyl pentapeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl decapeptide, palmitoyl heptapeptide, palmitoyl hexapeptide, palmitoyl nonapeptide, palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl pentapeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, pentapeptide, sh-oligopeptide, tetrapeptide and copper palmitoyl heptapeptide.

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide

Many peptides function as anti-ageing ingredients in skincare, due to their ability to fit specific receptors in the body to trigger anti-ageing responses. This includes mechanisms like collagen production, cell regeneration or even blocking muscle contractions to smooth expression lines. Peptides are made up of amino acids, and are unique in shape, with a huge variety available to target specific responses in the body. It is from a class of ingredients also found on ingredients lists as acetyl hexapeptide, acetyl tetrapeptide, acetylarginyltryptophyl diphenylglycine, arginine/lysine polypeptide, azelaoyl bis-dipeptide, copper heptapeptide-14 pantothenate, dipeptide, dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, ferric hexapeptide, heptapeptide-15, palmitate, myristol hexapeptide, myristol pentapeptide, myristoyl nonapeptide, myristoyl pentapeptide, oligopeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl decapeptide, palmitoyl heptapeptide, palmitoyl hexapeptide, palmitoyl nonapeptide, palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, pentapeptide, sh-oligopeptide, tetrapeptide and copper palmitoyl heptapeptide.

Laminaria Ochroleuca (Kelp) Extract

Laminaria Ochroleuca (Kelp) Extract

A type of kelp that helps soothe skin and offers hydration-enhancing properties, it can also play a role in reinforcing skin’s barrier and warding off environmental stressors. Researchers note that this ingredient is particularly useful for those prone to sensitive skin. It is in the class of Algae Extract which also include ahnfeltia concinna extract, alaria esculenta extract, algae exopolysaccharides, algin, alteromonas ferment extract, alteromonas ferment extract, ascophyllum nodosum extract, asparagopsis armata extract, chlorella protothecoides, chlorella vulgaris extract, dunaliella salina (green algae) extract, hydrolyzed f-fucoidan, macrocystis pyrifera (kelp) extract, and marine extract.

Chlorella Protothecoides Oil

Chlorella Protothecoides Oil

Chlorella vulgaris is a green eukaryotic microalgae that was first discovered in 1890. In skin care products, Chlorella vulgaris extract has been shown to stimulate collagen synthesis. Since collagen and elastin are responsible for the strength and elasticity of skin, preventing the degradation of these proteins is important for maintaining a youthful complexion. It is in the class of Algae Extract which also include ahnfeltia concinna extract, alaria esculenta extract, algae exopolysaccharides, algin, alteromonas ferment extract, ascophyllum nodosum extract, asparagopsis armata extract, chlorella protothecoides, vibrio alginolyticus ferment filtrate, dunaliella salina (green algae) extract, hydrolyzed f-fucoidan, laminaria ochroleuca (kelp) extract, macrocystis pyrifera (kelp) extract, marine extract, parachlorella beijerinckii exopolysaccharides, padina pavonica thallus extract, plankton extract, porphyridium cruentum extract, pseudoalteromonas exopolysaccharides, chondrus crispus, tripleurospermum maritimum extract and vibrio alginolyticus ferment filtrate.

Fomes Officinalis (Mushroom) Extract

Fomes Officinalis (Mushroom) Extract

Fomes officinalis is in a class of ingredients also known as mushroom extract and polyporus umbellatus (mushroom) extract

Copper Heptapeptide-14 Pantothenate

It encapsulates copper peptides and reduces wrinkles. It helps gene expression of collagen & elastin and increases elasticity. It is in a class of ingredients also found on ingredients lists as acetyl hexapeptide, acetyl tetrapeptide, acetylarginyltryptophyl diphenylglycine, arginine/lysine polypeptide, azelaoyl bis-dipeptide, dipeptide, dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, ferric hexapeptide, heptapeptide-15, palmitate, myristol hexapeptide, myristol pentapeptide, myristoyl nonapeptide, myristoyl pentapeptide, oligopeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl decapeptide, palmitoyl heptapeptide, palmitoyl hexapeptide, palmitoyl nonapeptide, palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl pentapeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, pentapeptide, sh-oligopeptide, tetrapeptide and copper palmitoyl heptapeptide.

Caprooyl Sphingosine

Caprooyl Sphingosine

Caprooyl Sphingosine is a mixture of fatty acids Caproic acid and Sphingosine. It acts as a precursor for ceramide synthesis, meaning it encourages the skin to produce ceramides naturally. The function of ceramides is to hold the skin cells together by creating a barrier against water-loss from the inside-out, and external aggressors from the outside-in. They make up almost 50% of our skins composition, but they can be depleted by UV, free radicals & pollution, and their production also naturally slows with age. This leads to an impaired skin barrier, which results in dry, rough skin with more visible wrinkling and redness. Encouraging the skin’s natural production of ceramides leads to an improved skin barrier, resulting in smoother, more hydrated, younger-looking skin. Caprooyl sphingosine is in the class of essential lipids, it can be found on ingredient lists as caprooyl phytosphingosine, cholesterol, glycolipids, glycoproteins, glycosphingolipids, lecithin, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, phospholipids and phytosphingosine.

Palmitoyl Decapeptide

Palmitoyl oligopeptides are peptide or small proteins, characterized by a generic structure of a string of amino acids. Generally, palmitoyl oligopeptides have similar uses in skincare, and cosmetic formulations are often used as an anti-aging ingredient. They are thought to be beneficial in anti-aging formulations due to their potential to help stimulate collagen production and promote healthy cell functioning. It is in a class of ingredients also found on ingredients lists as acetylarginyltryptophyl diphenylglycine, acetyl tetrapeptide, arginine/lysine polypeptide, azelaoyl bis-dipeptide, copper heptapeptide-14 pantothenate, dipeptide, dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, ferric hexapeptide, heptapeptide-15, palmitate, myristol hexapeptide, myristol pentapeptide, myristoyl nonapeptide, myristoyl pentapeptide, oligopeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl heptapeptide, palmitoyl hexapeptide, palmitoyl nonapeptide, palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl pentapeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, pentapeptide, sh-oligopeptide, tetrapeptide and copper palmitoyl heptapeptide.

Lactobacillus Extract Filtrate

Lactobacillus Extract Filtrate

Lactobacillus Extract Filtrate is a cell-free extract (CFE) of the lactobacillus microorganism. This means it is no longer a living bacteria (probiotic), but an extract of a once-living bacteria, which functions as a prebiotic. This active has been shown via clinical studies from the manufacturer, Evonik, to encourage the growth of beneficial skin bacteria, as well as support the natural skin barrier function, helping to protect against skin roughness and dryness. Lactobacillus extract filtrate is in a class of prebiotic ingredients and can be found on ingredients lists as alpha-glucan oligosaccharide, fructooligosaccharides, rhamnose and saccharomyces cerevisiae (yeast) extract.

Retinyl Propionate

Retinyl Propionate

Retinyl Propionate is a part of the vitamin A family of ingredients and is an ester of retinol and propionic acid. It is designed to have better skin tolerability vs. retinol. Once absorbed, it is broken down in the body to retinol, then into retinaldehyde, and then again into retinoic acid, the active form recognised by the body to trigger it’s skin benefits. Studies have shown levels of 0.3% or higher are required to see benefits comparable with retinol. It is part of a family of ingredients also found on ingredients lists as encapsulated retinaldehyde, hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinaldehyde, retinyl palmitate, retinyl propionate and retinyl retinoate (8x more powerful than retinol)

Octocrylene

Octocrylene

Octocrylene is a synthetic UV filter used in sun care products to provide protection against UVB rays with wavelengths between 290-320 nm. Other ingredients in the class of synthetic UV filters include bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyl triazone, homosalate, octinoxate, octisalate and triazine diethyl butamidotriazone.

Maltobionic Acid

Maltobionic acid is a non-irritating poly hydroxy acid (PHA) derived from natural sugars. PHAs provide a gentle exfoliation of the skin, encouraging dead cells to be shed from the surface, and new cells to be produced in the basal layer of the epidermis. This process leads to smoother, less congested & more radiant skin, whilst reducing discolouration & fine lines to provide visible anti-ageing results. Maltobionic acid is also an antioxidant, protecting skin from harmful effects of free radicals within the body, as well as inhibiting specific enzymes which lead to degradation of our skin proteins, so this mechanism keeps skin more youthful. Maltobionic acid also has humectant qualities, meaning it is able to draw water molecules to it, plumping & hydrating the area which it is applied. It was patented in 2000 by Neostrata, as one of their ‘Bionic acids’. Maltobionic acid is in a class of polyhydroxy acid ingredients also known by gluconolactone and lactobionic acid.

L-Ascorbic Acid

L-Ascorbic Acid

Part of the Vitamin C family of ingredients, L-ascorbic acid is Vitamin C in its purest form, and the active form required by the body to result in the many skin skin benefits of Vitamin C. The issue with L-ascorbic acid is in the delivery, as it is very unstable in water, and needs a pH 4 or below for it to penetrate the skin. That being said, when it can be stabilised in a formula and is able to penetrate the skin, it provides the highest potency of any form of Vitamin C currently available. Vitamin C can also be found on ingredients lists as ascorbic acid, ascorbyl glucoside, ascorbyl palmitate, ethyl ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate and tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate.

Dunaliella Salina (Green Algae) Extract

Dunaliella Salina (Green Algae) Extract

A natural source of Vitamin B12, it’s also a rich source of beta-carotene, and conveys potent antioxidant benefits that can benefit skin. It is in the class of Algae Extract which also include ahnfeltia concinna extract, alaria esculenta extract, algae exopolysaccharides, algin, alteromonas ferment extract, alteromonas ferment extract, ascophyllum nodosum extract, asparagopsis armata extract, chlorella protothecoides, chlorella vulgaris extract, hydrolyzed f-fucoidan, laminaria ochroleuca (kelp) extract, macrocystis pyrifera (kelp) extract, and marine extract.

Leucine

Leucine

Leucine is an amino acid that has anti-aging properties. It is used in anti-aging skin care products and is thought to help regenerate aging skin and reduce fine lines and sagging skin. It is said to create firmer, more supple skin and increase elasticity by repairing aging skin tissue. Amino acids are a class of ingredients. They can also be found on ingredients lists as acetyl glucosamine,acetyl tyrosinamide, alanine, arginine hcl, arginine pca, histidine, isoleucine, lysine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine and valine and yeast amino acids.