Ingredients in Skincare

Maltobionic Acid

Maltobionic acid is a non-irritating poly hydroxy acid (PHA) derived from natural sugars. PHAs provide a gentle exfoliation of the skin, encouraging dead cells to be shed from the surface, and new cells to be produced in the basal layer of the epidermis. This process leads to smoother, less congested & more radiant skin, whilst reducing discolouration & fine lines to provide visible anti-ageing results. Maltobionic acid is also an antioxidant, protecting skin from harmful effects of free radicals within the body, as well as inhibiting specific enzymes which lead to degradation of our skin proteins, so this mechanism keeps skin more youthful. Maltobionic acid also has humectant qualities, meaning it is able to draw water molecules to it, plumping & hydrating the area which it is applied. It was patented in 2000 by Neostrata, as one of their ‘Bionic acids’. Maltobionic acid is in a class of polyhydroxy acid ingredients also known by gluconolactone and lactobionic acid.

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide

Many peptides function as anti-ageing ingredients in skincare, due to their ability to fit specific receptors in the body to trigger anti-ageing responses. This includes mechanisms like collagen production, cell regeneration or even blocking muscle contractions to smooth expression lines. Peptides are made up of amino acids, and are unique in shape, with a huge variety available to target specific responses in the body. It is from a class of ingredients also found on ingredients lists as acetyl hexapeptide, acetyl tetrapeptide, acetylarginyltryptophyl diphenylglycine, arginine/lysine polypeptide, azelaoyl bis-dipeptide, copper heptapeptide-14 pantothenate, dipeptide, dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, ferric hexapeptide, heptapeptide-15, palmitate, myristol hexapeptide, myristol pentapeptide, myristoyl nonapeptide, myristoyl pentapeptide, oligopeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl decapeptide, palmitoyl heptapeptide, palmitoyl hexapeptide, palmitoyl nonapeptide, palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, pentapeptide, sh-oligopeptide, tetrapeptide and copper palmitoyl heptapeptide.

Chondrus Crispus

Algae

Algae is an incredibly interesting natural ingredient source. There are many types of algae (kelp, laminaria, microalgae) but in general in all its forms, it acts as a powerful antioxidant, protecting from free radical damage, as well as being able to hydrate the skin and deliver naturally-occurring vitamins into the skin. It is in the class of Algae Extract which also include ahnfeltia concinna extract, alaria esculenta extract, algae exopolysaccharides, algin, alteromonas ferment extract, ascophyllum nodosum extract, asparagopsis armata extract, chlorella protothecoides, vibrio alginolyticus ferment filtrate, dunaliella salina (green algae) extract, hydrolyzed f-fucoidan, laminaria ochroleuca (kelp) extract, macrocystis pyrifera (kelp) extract, marine extract, parachlorella beijerinckii exopolysaccharides, padina pavonica thallus extract, plankton extract, porphyridium cruentum extract, pseudoalteromonas exopolysaccharides, tripleurospermum maritimum extract, chlorella protothecoides oil and chlorella protothecoides oil.

Phospholipids

Phospholipids

Phospholipids are comprising of fatty acids, glycerol & phosphate. They are in the class of essential lipids, and can be found on ingredient lists as caprooyl phytosphingosine, caprooyl sphingosine, cholesterol, glycolipids, glycoproteins, glycosphingolipids, Lecithin, linolenic acid, linolenic acid and phytosphingosine.

Histidine

Histidine

Histidine is a semi-essential amino acid which the body does not produce. When synthetically produced is known for being more hydrating to the skin. Amino acids are a class of ingredients. They can also be found on ingredients lists as acetyl glucosamine,acetyl tyrosinamide, alanine, arginine hcl, arginine pca, histidine, isoleucine, lysine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine and valine and yeast amino acids.

Porphyridium Cruentum Extract

Porphyridium Cruentum Extract

A type of red algae rich in polysaccharides, which helps to retain moisture and hydrate the skin. This ingredient has a smoothing effect and is very well tolerated by all skin types. The extract of red algae helps to enhance skin elasticity, which results in a reduction of lines and wrinkles. It is in the class of Algae Extract which also include ahnfeltia concinna extract, alaria esculenta extract, algae exopolysaccharides, algin, alteromonas ferment extract, ascophyllum nodosum extract, asparagopsis armata extract, chlorella protothecoides, chlorella vulgaris extract, dunaliella salina (green algae) extract, hydrolyzed f-fucoidan, laminaria ochroleuca (kelp) extract, macrocystis pyrifera (kelp) extract, marine extract, parachlorella beijerinckii exopolysaccharides, parachlorella beijerinckii exopolysaccharides, plankton extract, pseudoalteromonas exopolysaccharides, tripleurospermum maritimum extract, vibrio alginolyticus ferment filtrate, chlorella protothecoides oil

L-Ascorbic Acid

L-Ascorbic Acid

Part of the Vitamin C family of ingredients, L-ascorbic acid is Vitamin C in its purest form, and the active form required by the body to result in the many skin skin benefits of Vitamin C. The issue with L-ascorbic acid is in the delivery, as it is very unstable in water, and needs a pH 4 or below for it to penetrate the skin. That being said, when it can be stabilised in a formula and is able to penetrate the skin, it provides the highest potency of any form of Vitamin C currently available. Vitamin C can also be found on ingredients lists as ascorbic acid, ascorbyl glucoside, ascorbyl palmitate, ethyl ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate and tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate.

Phytosphingosine

Phytosphingosine

Phytosphingosine (PS) is a lipid which naturally occurs in the stratum corneum (the top, visible layer of our epidermis). This acts as a precursor for ceramide synthesis, meaning it encourages the skin to produce ceramides naturally. Studies have also shown PS to offer anti-acne benefits, it is believed by reinforcing the protective barrier, and therefore reducing specific abnormalities in the skin functioning that lead to acne (invading inflammatory bacteria, increased keratinization, increased sebaceous gland activity). It is in the same class of essential lipids that include caprooyl phytosphingosine, caprooyl sphingosine, cholesterol, glycolipids, glycoproteins, glycosphingolipids, lecithin, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and phospholipids.

Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract

Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract

Padina pavonica, also known as peacocks tail, is a brown algae native to the Mediterranean coast. It is rich in polysaccharides, which provide humectant properties, meaning they can draw water molecules to them to plump & hydrate the surrounding area. It is also shown to have anti-pollution effects, protecting skin against free radical and heavy metal exposure. It is in the class of Algae Extract which also include ahnfeltia concinna extract, alaria esculenta extract, algae exopolysaccharides, algin, alteromonas ferment extract, ascophyllum nodosum extract, asparagopsis armata extract, chlorella protothecoides, chlorella vulgaris extract, dunaliella salina (green algae) extract, hydrolyzed f-fucoidan, laminaria ochroleuca (kelp) extract, macrocystis pyrifera (kelp) extract, marine extract, parachlorella beijerinckii exopolysaccharides, plankton extract, porphyridium cruentum extract, pseudoalteromonas exopolysaccharides, tripleurospermum maritimum extract, vibrio alginolyticus ferment filtrate, chlorella protothecoides oil

Dipeptide

Dipeptide is an anti-ageing peptide, which facilitates the skin’s healing process and makes the skin firmer. It is in a class of ingredients also found on ingredients lists as acetyl hexapeptide, acetyl tetrapeptide, acetylarginyltryptophyl diphenylglycine, arginine/lysine polypeptide, azelaoyl bis-dipeptide, copper heptapeptide-14 pantothenate, dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, ferric hexapeptide, heptapeptide-15, palmitate, myristol hexapeptide, myristol pentapeptide, myristoyl nonapeptide, myristoyl pentapeptide, oligopeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl decapeptide, palmitoyl heptapeptide, palmitoyl hexapeptide, palmitoyl nonapeptide, palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl pentapeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, pentapeptide, sh-oligopeptide, tetrapeptide and copper palmitoyl heptapeptide.

Myristol Hexapeptide

A synthetic, fatty acid-linked peptide known to improve the skin's resilience, visibly calm, and help the skin look and feel smoother and softer. Myristoyl hexapeptide-16 is categorized as a protein-stimulating peptide, which means it can help skin's surface look better and become more resistant to moisture loss. It is in a class of ingredients also found on ingredients lists as acetyl hexapeptide, acetyl tetrapeptide, acetylarginyltryptophyl diphenylglycine, arginine/lysine polypeptide, azelaoyl bis-dipeptide, myristol hexapeptide, dipeptide, dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, ferric hexapeptide, palmitate, myristol hexapeptide, myristol pentapeptide, myristoyl nonapeptide, myristoyl pentapeptide, oligopeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl decapeptide, palmitoyl heptapeptide, palmitoyl hexapeptide, palmitoyl nonapeptide, palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl pentapeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, pentapeptide, sh-oligopeptide, tetrapeptide and copper palmitoyl heptapeptide.

Retinyl Retinoate

Retinyl Retinoate (8X More Powerful Than Retinol)

Retinyl retinoate is a part of the vitamin A family of ingredients, which combines retinol with retinoic acid. Research shows that this makes it more stable in the delivery (a common problem with either active alone), as well as more potent and less irritating. It is broken down by the body in two stages - first into retinol and retinoic acid, then the retinol is broken down again into retinoic acid, so essentially packing double the punch. Studies carried out comparing this to pure retinol showed significantly more effective and faster results, with comparable side effects. It is part of a family of ingredients also found on ingredients lists as encapsulated retinaldehyde, hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinaldehyde, retinyl palmitate and retinyl propionate.

Linolenic Acid

Linolenic Acid

Alpha Linolenic Acid (ALA) is a plant-based Omega 3 fatty acid, found in plant oils such as flaxseed and soy. ALA provides anti-inflammatory effects by inhibiting the production of inflammatory mediators in the body. ALA also supports healthy skin barrier functioning, by inhibiting levels of trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), and therefore maintaining adequate levels of hydration in the epidermis, resulting in smooth, soft & moisturised skin. Linolenic acid is in the class of essential lipids, and can be found on ingredient lists as caprooyl phytosphingosine, caprooyl sphingosine, cholesterol, glycolipids, glycoproteins, glycosphingolipids, Lecithin, linoleic acid, phospholipids and phytosphingosine.

Chlorella Vulgaris Extract

Chlorella Vulgaris Extract

In skin care products, algae extract has several functions, including as a thickening agent, water-binding agent, and antioxidant. Chlorella vulgaris extract has been shown to stimulate collagen synthesis. It is in the class of Algae Extract which also include ahnfeltia concinna extract, alaria esculenta extract, algae exopolysaccharides, algin, alteromonas ferment extract, alteromonas ferment extract, ascophyllum nodosum extract, asparagopsis armata extract, chlorella protothecoides, dunaliella salina (green algae) extract, hydrolyzed f-fucoidan, laminaria ochroleuca (kelp) extract, macrocystis pyrifera (kelp) extract, and marine extract.

Pentapeptide

Pentapeptide is a biomimetic peptide that helps the skin become less sensitive by neutralising signals in skin's uppermost layers that would otherwise appear as signs of sensitivity. In order to deliver this peptide to skin and keep it stable during use, it's typically paired with emollient fatty acids such as shea butter or lecithin.