Ingredients in Skincare

Palmitoyl Decapeptide

Palmitoyl oligopeptides are peptide or small proteins, characterized by a generic structure of a string of amino acids. Generally, palmitoyl oligopeptides have similar uses in skincare, and cosmetic formulations are often used as an anti-aging ingredient. They are thought to be beneficial in anti-aging formulations due to their potential to help stimulate collagen production and promote healthy cell functioning. It is in a class of ingredients also found on ingredients lists as acetylarginyltryptophyl diphenylglycine, acetyl tetrapeptide, arginine/lysine polypeptide, azelaoyl bis-dipeptide, copper heptapeptide-14 pantothenate, dipeptide, dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, ferric hexapeptide, heptapeptide-15, palmitate, myristol hexapeptide, myristol pentapeptide, myristoyl nonapeptide, myristoyl pentapeptide, oligopeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl heptapeptide, palmitoyl hexapeptide, palmitoyl nonapeptide, palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl pentapeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, pentapeptide, sh-oligopeptide, tetrapeptide and copper palmitoyl heptapeptide.

Octinoxate

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate

Octinoxate/Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate is a synthetic UV filter used in sun care products to provide protection against UVB light. Other ingredients in the class of synthetic UV filters include bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyl triazone, homosalate, octisalate, octocrylene and triazine diethyl butamidotriazone.

Palmitoyl Oligopeptide

Many peptides function as anti-ageing ingredients in skincare, due to their ability to fit specific receptors in the body to trigger anti-ageing responses. This includes mechanisms like collagen production, cell regeneration or even blocking muscle contractions to smooth expression lines. Peptides are made up of amino acids, and are unique in shape, with a huge variety available to target specific responses in the body. It is from a class of ingredients also found on ingredients lists as acetyl hexapeptide, acetyl tetrapeptide, acetylarginyltryptophyl diphenylglycine, arginine/lysine polypeptide, azelaoyl bis-dipeptide, copper heptapeptide-14 pantothenate, dipeptide, dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, ferric hexapeptide, heptapeptide-15, palmitate, myristol hexapeptide, myristol pentapeptide, myristoyl nonapeptide, myristoyl pentapeptide, oligopeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl decapeptide, palmitoyl heptapeptide, palmitoyl hexapeptide, palmitoyl nonapeptide, palmitoyl pentapeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, pentapeptide, sh-oligopeptide, tetrapeptide and copper palmitoyl heptapeptide.

Lecithin

Lecithin

Lecithin can be classed as a phospholipid, which occurs naturally in eggs, soybean, sunflower oil and corn. It contains a high concentration of fatty acids, which support the skin’s natural barrier by creating a lipid film to prevent transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Lecithin also has lipophilic & hydrophilic properties, meaning it can function as an emulsifier and skin penetration-enhancer, helping to deliver actives deeper into the skin. Lecithin is in the class of essential lipids, and can be found on ingredient lists as caprooyl phytosphingosine, caprooyl sphingosine, cholesterol, glycolipids, glycoproteins, glycosphingolipids, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, phospholipids and phytosphingosine.

Glycoproteins

Glycoproteins is in the class of essential lipids, they can be found on ingredient lists as caprooyl phytosphingosine, caprooyl sphingosine, cholesterol, glycolipids, glycosphingolipids, lecithin, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, phospholipids and phytosphingosine.

Pentapeptide

Pentapeptide is a biomimetic peptide that helps the skin become less sensitive by neutralising signals in skin's uppermost layers that would otherwise appear as signs of sensitivity. In order to deliver this peptide to skin and keep it stable during use, it's typically paired with emollient fatty acids such as shea butter or lecithin.

Ethylhexyl Salicylate

Ethylhexyl Salicylate

Ethylhexyl Salicylate is a synthetic UV filter used in sun care products to protect against UVB radiation to offer SPF protection to the skin. Other ingredients in the class of synthetic UV filters include bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl triazone, homosalate, octinoxate, octisalate, octocrylene and triazine diethyl butamidotriazone.

Ferric Hexapeptide

Ferric hexapeptide is an anti-ageing peptide and is used in skincare to treat fine lines and wrinkles. It is in a class of ingredients also found on ingredients lists as acetylarginyltryptophyl diphenylglycine, acetyl tetrapeptide, arginine/lysine polypeptide, azelaoyl bis-dipeptide, copper heptapeptide-14 pantothenate, dipeptide, dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, heptapeptide-15, palmitate, myristol hexapeptide, myristol pentapeptide, myristoyl nonapeptide, myristoyl pentapeptide, oligopeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl decapeptide, palmitoyl heptapeptide, palmitoyl hexapeptide, palmitoyl nonapeptide, palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl pentapeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, pentapeptide, sh-oligopeptide, tetrapeptide and copper palmitoyl heptapeptide.

Polyporus Umbellatus (Mushroom) Extract

Polyporus umbellatus (mushroom) extract is a type of medicinal mushroom used in skincare for its antioxidant and skin brightening properties.

Pseudoalteromonas Exopolysaccharides

Pseudoalteromonas Exopolysaccharides

Pseudoalteromonas Exopolysaccharides are biotechnological marine alternatives to famous IT-moisturiser and humectant hyaluronic acid (HA). It is obtained by the fermentation of a marine bacterial strain. It is in the class of Algae Extract which also include ahnfeltia concinna extract, alaria esculenta extract, algae exopolysaccharides, algin, alteromonas ferment extract, ascophyllum nodosum extract, asparagopsis armata extract, chlorella protothecoides, chlorella vulgaris extract, dunaliella salina (green algae) extract, hydrolyzed f-fucoidan, laminaria ochroleuca (kelp) extract, macrocystis pyrifera (kelp) extract, marine extract, parachlorella beijerinckii exopolysaccharides, plankton extract, porphyridium cruentum extract, padina pavonica thallus extract, tripleurospermum maritimum extract, vibrio alginolyticus ferment filtrate, chlorella protothecoides oil

Linoleic Acid

Linoleic Acid

Linoleic Acid is an Omega 6 essential fatty acid (EFA), found in many plant oils: corn, safflower & sunflower. Linoleic acid forms the fatty acid based of Ceramides EOH, EOS and EOP, which are essential for the normal functioning of the skin barrier. Applying linoleic acid topically helps to support ceramide functioning within the skin, leading to improved skin hydration and smoothness. Research also shows that sebum in acne-prone skin can be lacking in Omega 6 (with too much Omega 3), so there is evidence to suggest applying this topically can help to balance the sebum composition and in turn reduce acne lesions. Linoleic Acid is in the class of essential lipids, and can be found on ingredient lists as caprooyl phytosphingosine, caprooyl sphingosine, cholesterol, glycolipids, glycoproteins, glycosphingolipids, Lecithin, linolenic acid, phospholipids and phytosphingosine.

Sulfur

Sulfur

Sulfur used in skincare works to reduce blemishes. It does this by acting as an antibacterial to kill off the bacteria which causes acne, and also works to dry out the area, absorbing any excess sebum. It works best for blackheads and whiteheads, and is typically better for sensitive skin types than some other blemish-fighting ingredients.

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP) is a gentle and water-soluble form of Vitamin C. It is more stable for use in skincare than pure ascorbic acid. Vitamin C can also be found on ingredients lists as ascorbic acid, ascorbyl glucoside, ascorbyl palmitate, ethyl ascorbic acid, l-ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate.

Gluconolactone

Gluconolactone is a poly hydroxy acid (PHA). PHAs work by gently dissolving the keratin that binds our outermost layer of skin cells, encouraging the natural exfoliation process of the skin, leading to smoother, clearer skin. This process also encourages new skin cell generation in the basal layer of the epidermis, a process which naturally slows with age, so with repeated use this can have an overall anti-ageing effect on the skin. Gluconolactone has also been shown to inhibit the enzyme elastase, which breaks down elastin in the skin (an essential protein produced by the fibroblasts), leading to sagging of the skin. PHAs are much larger in molecular weight vs AHAs so they cannot penetrate the skin as fast or as far, which therefore makes more gentle & suitable for more sensitive skin types, including those with rosacea-prone skin. Gluconolactone is also especially good for drier skin types as it also has natural humectant qualities, meaning it draws water towards it, hydrating the skin from within. Gluconolactone is in a class of polyhydroxy acid ingredients also known by lactobionic acid, and maltobionic acid.

Caprooyl Phytosphingosine

Caprooyl Phytosphingosine

Caprooyl Phytosphingosine is a mixture of fatty acids Caproic acid and Phytosphingosine. It acts as a precursor for ceramide synthesis, meaning it encourages the skin to produce ceramides naturally. The function of ceramides is to hold the skin cells together by creating a barrier against water-loss from the inside-out, and external aggressors from the outside-in. They make up almost 50% of our skins composition, but they can be depleted by UV, free radicals & pollution, and their production also naturally slows with age. This leads to an impaired skin barrier, which results in dry, rough skin with more visible wrinkling and redness. Encouraging the skin’s natural production of ceramides leads to an improved skin barrier, resulting in smoother, more hydrated, younger-looking skin. Caprooyl phytosphingosine is in the class of essential lipids, it can be found on ingredient lists as caprooyl sphingosine, cholesterol, glycolipids, glycoproteins, glycosphingolipids, lecithin, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, phospholipids and phytosphingosine.