Ingredients in Skincare

Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate

Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate

Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a part of the vitamin A family of ingredients, and is classed as an ester of retinoic acid. This means it is able to bind directly with the retinoic acid receptors in our body, without the need for conversion first (a process all retinol derivatives undergo, which typically reduces their potency). Hydroxypinacolone retinoate is part of a family of ingredients also found on ingredients lists as retinol, retinaldehyde, Retinoic acid (aka tretinoin), encapsulated retinaldehyde, retinyl palmitate, retinyl propionate or retinyl retinoate (8x more powerful than retinol).

Laminaria Ochroleuca (Kelp) Extract

Laminaria Ochroleuca (Kelp) Extract

A type of kelp that helps soothe skin and offers hydration-enhancing properties, it can also play a role in reinforcing skin’s barrier and warding off environmental stressors. Researchers note that this ingredient is particularly useful for those prone to sensitive skin. It is in the class of Algae Extract which also include ahnfeltia concinna extract, alaria esculenta extract, algae exopolysaccharides, algin, alteromonas ferment extract, alteromonas ferment extract, ascophyllum nodosum extract, asparagopsis armata extract, chlorella protothecoides, chlorella vulgaris extract, dunaliella salina (green algae) extract, hydrolyzed f-fucoidan, macrocystis pyrifera (kelp) extract, and marine extract.

Dunaliella Salina (Green Algae) Extract

Dunaliella Salina (Green Algae) Extract

A natural source of Vitamin B12, it’s also a rich source of beta-carotene, and conveys potent antioxidant benefits that can benefit skin. It is in the class of Algae Extract which also include ahnfeltia concinna extract, alaria esculenta extract, algae exopolysaccharides, algin, alteromonas ferment extract, alteromonas ferment extract, ascophyllum nodosum extract, asparagopsis armata extract, chlorella protothecoides, chlorella vulgaris extract, hydrolyzed f-fucoidan, laminaria ochroleuca (kelp) extract, macrocystis pyrifera (kelp) extract, and marine extract.

Pentapeptide

Pentapeptide is a biomimetic peptide that helps the skin become less sensitive by neutralising signals in skin's uppermost layers that would otherwise appear as signs of sensitivity. In order to deliver this peptide to skin and keep it stable during use, it's typically paired with emollient fatty acids such as shea butter or lecithin.

Chlorella Protothecoides

Chlorella Protothecoides

Chlorella protothecoides is a type of algae. Like other algae-based ingredients it has the potential to act as a thickening agent, water-binding agent, and antioxidant in skin care formulations. It is in the class of Algae Extract which also include ahnfeltia concinna extract, alaria esculenta extract, algae exopolysaccharides, algin, alteromonas ferment extract, alteromonas ferment extract, ascophyllum nodosum extract, asparagopsis armata extract, chlorella vulgaris extract, dunaliella salina (green algae) extract, hydrolyzed f-fucoidan, laminaria ochroleuca (kelp) extract, macrocystis pyrifera (kelp) extract, and marine extract.

Porphyridium Cruentum Extract

Porphyridium Cruentum Extract

A type of red algae rich in polysaccharides, which helps to retain moisture and hydrate the skin. This ingredient has a smoothing effect and is very well tolerated by all skin types. The extract of red algae helps to enhance skin elasticity, which results in a reduction of lines and wrinkles. It is in the class of Algae Extract which also include ahnfeltia concinna extract, alaria esculenta extract, algae exopolysaccharides, algin, alteromonas ferment extract, ascophyllum nodosum extract, asparagopsis armata extract, chlorella protothecoides, chlorella vulgaris extract, dunaliella salina (green algae) extract, hydrolyzed f-fucoidan, laminaria ochroleuca (kelp) extract, macrocystis pyrifera (kelp) extract, marine extract, parachlorella beijerinckii exopolysaccharides, parachlorella beijerinckii exopolysaccharides, plankton extract, pseudoalteromonas exopolysaccharides, tripleurospermum maritimum extract, vibrio alginolyticus ferment filtrate, chlorella protothecoides oil

Lactobacillus Extract Filtrate

Lactobacillus Extract Filtrate

Lactobacillus Extract Filtrate is a cell-free extract (CFE) of the lactobacillus microorganism. This means it is no longer a living bacteria (probiotic), but an extract of a once-living bacteria, which functions as a prebiotic. This active has been shown via clinical studies from the manufacturer, Evonik, to encourage the growth of beneficial skin bacteria, as well as support the natural skin barrier function, helping to protect against skin roughness and dryness. Lactobacillus extract filtrate is in a class of prebiotic ingredients and can be found on ingredients lists as alpha-glucan oligosaccharide, fructooligosaccharides, rhamnose and saccharomyces cerevisiae (yeast) extract.

Sh-Oligopeptide

In It's raw form, oligopeptide is a white powder. Most of the research has been conducted by the labs that manufacture it; however, there are promising studies showing it can help manage acne-causing bacteria, both on its own and in conjunction with anti-acne superstar exfoliant salicylic acid.

Myristol Hexapeptide

A synthetic, fatty acid-linked peptide known to improve the skin's resilience, visibly calm, and help the skin look and feel smoother and softer. Myristoyl hexapeptide-16 is categorized as a protein-stimulating peptide, which means it can help skin's surface look better and become more resistant to moisture loss. It is in a class of ingredients also found on ingredients lists as acetyl hexapeptide, acetyl tetrapeptide, acetylarginyltryptophyl diphenylglycine, arginine/lysine polypeptide, azelaoyl bis-dipeptide, myristol hexapeptide, dipeptide, dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, ferric hexapeptide, palmitate, myristol hexapeptide, myristol pentapeptide, myristoyl nonapeptide, myristoyl pentapeptide, oligopeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl decapeptide, palmitoyl heptapeptide, palmitoyl hexapeptide, palmitoyl nonapeptide, palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl pentapeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, pentapeptide, sh-oligopeptide, tetrapeptide and copper palmitoyl heptapeptide.

Caprooyl Sphingosine

Caprooyl Sphingosine

Caprooyl Sphingosine is a mixture of fatty acids Caproic acid and Sphingosine. It acts as a precursor for ceramide synthesis, meaning it encourages the skin to produce ceramides naturally. The function of ceramides is to hold the skin cells together by creating a barrier against water-loss from the inside-out, and external aggressors from the outside-in. They make up almost 50% of our skins composition, but they can be depleted by UV, free radicals & pollution, and their production also naturally slows with age. This leads to an impaired skin barrier, which results in dry, rough skin with more visible wrinkling and redness. Encouraging the skin’s natural production of ceramides leads to an improved skin barrier, resulting in smoother, more hydrated, younger-looking skin. Caprooyl sphingosine is in the class of essential lipids, it can be found on ingredient lists as caprooyl phytosphingosine, cholesterol, glycolipids, glycoproteins, glycosphingolipids, lecithin, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, phospholipids and phytosphingosine.

L-Ascorbic Acid

L-Ascorbic Acid

Part of the Vitamin C family of ingredients, L-ascorbic acid is Vitamin C in its purest form, and the active form required by the body to result in the many skin skin benefits of Vitamin C. The issue with L-ascorbic acid is in the delivery, as it is very unstable in water, and needs a pH 4 or below for it to penetrate the skin. That being said, when it can be stabilised in a formula and is able to penetrate the skin, it provides the highest potency of any form of Vitamin C currently available. Vitamin C can also be found on ingredients lists as ascorbic acid, ascorbyl glucoside, ascorbyl palmitate, ethyl ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate and tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate.

Retinyl Propionate

Retinyl Propionate

Retinyl Propionate is a part of the vitamin A family of ingredients and is an ester of retinol and propionic acid. It is designed to have better skin tolerability vs. retinol. Once absorbed, it is broken down in the body to retinol, then into retinaldehyde, and then again into retinoic acid, the active form recognised by the body to trigger it’s skin benefits. Studies have shown levels of 0.3% or higher are required to see benefits comparable with retinol. It is part of a family of ingredients also found on ingredients lists as encapsulated retinaldehyde, hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinaldehyde, retinyl palmitate, retinyl propionate and retinyl retinoate (8x more powerful than retinol)

Linolenic Acid

Linolenic Acid

Alpha Linolenic Acid (ALA) is a plant-based Omega 3 fatty acid, found in plant oils such as flaxseed and soy. ALA provides anti-inflammatory effects by inhibiting the production of inflammatory mediators in the body. ALA also supports healthy skin barrier functioning, by inhibiting levels of trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), and therefore maintaining adequate levels of hydration in the epidermis, resulting in smooth, soft & moisturised skin. Linolenic acid is in the class of essential lipids, and can be found on ingredient lists as caprooyl phytosphingosine, caprooyl sphingosine, cholesterol, glycolipids, glycoproteins, glycosphingolipids, Lecithin, linoleic acid, phospholipids and phytosphingosine.

Chlorella Protothecoides Oil

Chlorella Protothecoides Oil

Chlorella vulgaris is a green eukaryotic microalgae that was first discovered in 1890. In skin care products, Chlorella vulgaris extract has been shown to stimulate collagen synthesis. Since collagen and elastin are responsible for the strength and elasticity of skin, preventing the degradation of these proteins is important for maintaining a youthful complexion. It is in the class of Algae Extract which also include ahnfeltia concinna extract, alaria esculenta extract, algae exopolysaccharides, algin, alteromonas ferment extract, ascophyllum nodosum extract, asparagopsis armata extract, chlorella protothecoides, vibrio alginolyticus ferment filtrate, dunaliella salina (green algae) extract, hydrolyzed f-fucoidan, laminaria ochroleuca (kelp) extract, macrocystis pyrifera (kelp) extract, marine extract, parachlorella beijerinckii exopolysaccharides, padina pavonica thallus extract, plankton extract, porphyridium cruentum extract, pseudoalteromonas exopolysaccharides, chondrus crispus, tripleurospermum maritimum extract and vibrio alginolyticus ferment filtrate.

Palmitoyl Decapeptide

Palmitoyl oligopeptides are peptide or small proteins, characterized by a generic structure of a string of amino acids. Generally, palmitoyl oligopeptides have similar uses in skincare, and cosmetic formulations are often used as an anti-aging ingredient. They are thought to be beneficial in anti-aging formulations due to their potential to help stimulate collagen production and promote healthy cell functioning. It is in a class of ingredients also found on ingredients lists as acetylarginyltryptophyl diphenylglycine, acetyl tetrapeptide, arginine/lysine polypeptide, azelaoyl bis-dipeptide, copper heptapeptide-14 pantothenate, dipeptide, dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, ferric hexapeptide, heptapeptide-15, palmitate, myristol hexapeptide, myristol pentapeptide, myristoyl nonapeptide, myristoyl pentapeptide, oligopeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl heptapeptide, palmitoyl hexapeptide, palmitoyl nonapeptide, palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl pentapeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, pentapeptide, sh-oligopeptide, tetrapeptide and copper palmitoyl heptapeptide.