Serine is a non-essential amino acid and serves as a water-binding ingredient. It's great for moisturising dry and dehydrated skin and serves as an antioxidant against external factors.

Amino acids are a class of ingredients. They can also be found on ingredients lists as acetyl glucosamine,acetyl tyrosinamide, alanine, arginine hcl, arginine pca, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine and valine and yeast amino acids.

Renude

barrier support

dehydrated skin

fine lines

redness

ultra dry skin

I have chosen this barrier-supporting serum to improve skin hydration, reduce redness, and provide daily antioxidant protection to the skin.

Amino acids are the small building blocks that make up peptides, and proteins. Each amino acid has a unique structure, and as such plays a specific role within the body. There are around 20 different types considered to be most important for human health. In the outer layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, they are present in the ‘natural moisturising factors’, our skin’s own moisturising mechanism, and they help to support water transport between skin cells to keep our surface smooth and hydrated.

alanine

L-ascorbic acid is Vitamin C in its purest form, and the active form required by the body to result in the many skin skin benefits of Vitamin C. The issue with L-ascorbic acid is in the delivery, as it is very unstable in water, and needs a pH 4 or below for it to penetrate the skin. That being said, when it can be stabilised in a formula and is able to penetrate the skin, it provides the highest potency of any form of Vitamin C currently available.

ascorbic acid

Vitamin C has many skin benefits, including its action as an antioxidant, to neutralise free radicals (reactive molecules with an unpaired electron), preventing them from causing damage to cells within the body. Vitamin C is also involved in the collagen-production process, so provides anti-wrinkle activity through this mechanism. Lastly, Vitamin C inhibits the enzyme tyrosinase, which is involved in melanin-synthesis, and can therefore visibly reduce areas of hyperpigmentation in the skin.

Many peptides function as anti-ageing ingredients in skincare, due to their ability to fit specific receptors in the body to trigger anti-ageing responses. This includes mechanisms like collagen production, cell regeneration or even blocking muscle contractions to smooth expression lines. Peptides are made up of amino acids, and are unique in shape, with a huge variety available to target specific responses in the body.

copper palmitoyl heptapeptide

Epigallocatechin Gallate (EGCG) is a catechin found naturally in abundance within green tea. It has a number of skin benefits, firstly as a powerful antioxidant, meaning it can neutralise free radicals before they can cause damage to skin cells. Studies have also shown it to encourage the production of the skin’s natural moisturising factor (NMF), in turn increasing the skin’s ability to retain moisture, which results in more hydrated, plump, smoother skin. There is some research to show that EGCG can also reduce visible hyperpigmentation by inhibiting the production of melanin in the skin.

epigallocatechin gallate

heptapeptide-15 palmitate

hydrolyzed oat protein

Oat extract is known to have soothing, anti-inflammatory effects in the skin, and is a popular active for treating symptoms of dry skin. It also has antioxidant properties so is able to protect the skin against free radicals caused by pollution and UV.

Acetyl Glucosamine is an amino acid sugar

isoleucine

Niacinamide, also known as Vitamin B3 and Nicotinamide, has many skincare benefits. Firstly, it regulates sebum production in the skin, which in turn reduces blemishes and visible pore size. It also reduces facial redness by improving microcirculation, which means moving the blood inside the capillaries away from the face to reduce visible redness. It also has the ability to strengthen the natural lipid barrier of the skin by encouraging ceramide production (the building blocks which seal our skin cells together), which in turn increases the hydration within the epidermis. Lastly, niacinamide works to help reduce hyperpigmentation by blocking melanin from being deposited on the skin cells.

niacinamide

parachlorella beijerinckii exopolysaccharides

Algae is an incredibly interesting natural ingredient source. It is essentially an underwater plant, designed to get its food from sunlight, much like any other plants, although from much more challenging conditions. There are many types of algae (kelp, laminaria, microalgae), but in general in all its forms it acts as a powerful antioxidant, protecting from free radical damage, as well as being able to hydrate the skin and deliver naturally-occurring vitamins into the skin.

proline

Vitamin A derivative. It is broken down in the body to retinol, and then into retinaldehyde, then again into retinoic acid, the active form recognised by the body to trigger it’s skin benefits.

retinyl palmitate

Vitamin A, aka Retinol, is one of the most well-researched actives used in skincare today. Retinol and all of its derivatives are broken down within the skin first into retinaldehyde, then into retinoic acid, the active form recognised by the body to trigger it’s skin benefits.

Retinoic acid (aka tretinoin) is the gold standard of anti-ageing and works in a number of ways. Firstly, it blocks the production of collagen-degrading enzymes, meaning collagen does not get broken down as quickly in the skin. After prolonged use (6M+), it has also been shown to stimulate the production of type I and type III collagen, reducing wrinkles and improving skin firmness. It has been shown to protect against UV-induced damage, as well as reducing the appearance of hyperpigmentation in the skin. Skin treated with retinoids is smoother, more even-toned, firmer and younger looking.

serine

Sodium PCA is the sodium salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA), which is found naturally in the body, and in the skin’s natural moisturising factor (NMF). PCA acts as a humectant, meaning it draws water to it, plumping and hydrating the area. The skin’s NMF ensures adequate hydration of the stratum corneum, which also works to support the overall barrier function of the skin, regulating trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL). Including Sodium PCA in skincare supports this natural mechanism of the skin.

sodium pca

Natural moisturising factor (NMF) is a substance produced by the body, made up of minerals, lactate, urea, amino acids & humectants, which coats the surface skin cells to keep them moisturised. NMF increases the skin’s ability to retain moisture, which results in more hydrated, plump, smoother skin.

threonine

valine

An anti-oxidant rich, fortifying serum is formulated to help defend the skin barrier against pollutants and environmental aggressors.

This anti-oxidant rich, fortifying serum is formulated to help defend the skin barrier against pollutants and environmental aggressors. Formulated with the highest concentration of Alguronic Acid from algae, our benefit-boosting ingredient, this fortifying serum combines with nutrient-rich niacinamide (Vitamin B3) and an anti-oxidant power house: Phloretin (from apple wood) and Ergothioneine (from mushroom). Skin barrier is fortified to help improve the appearance of dullness, redness, discoloration, lines, and skin tone.

dull skin

uneven texture

This overnight treatment is full of ingredients to hydrate the skin and support the skin barrier, so is a perfect add-on to your daily routine, to nourish your dry skin and leave it plump & hydrated.

Arginine is an amino acid which occurs naturally within the human body. It is a popular ingredient in skincare for a number of reasons; it offers antioxidant protection, it hydrates the skin by stimulating the body's own production of humectants like urea and it can also repair visible skin damage.

arginine

ceramide ap

Ceramides are long chains of lipids, which occur naturally within the epidermis. Their function is to hold the skin cells together by creating a barrier against water-loss from the inside-out, and external aggressors from the outside-in. They make up almost 50% of our skins composition, but they can be depleted by UV, free radicals & pollution, and their production also naturally slows with age. This leads to an impaired skin barrier, which results in dry, rough skin with more visible wrinkling and redness. Applying ceramides topically can increase the levels of ceramides in the epidermis, and therefore supports the natural healthy functioning of the skin.

ceramide eop

ceramide np

Cholesterol is a fatty acid which occurs naturally in the skin’s lipid barrier. Applying cholesterol topically supports the skin barrier, reducing trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), and maintaining healthy skin functioning. Strengthening this lipid barrier also leads to improved skin hydration, which in turn leads to smoother, plumper, younger-looking skin.

cholesterol

Our outer layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, has a multilamellar structure (essentially a fine membrane), made up of lipids (fats), to form a non-permeable barrier. This keeps water inside the skin, and acts as the first defense against external aggressors. The lipids which make up the majority of this are known as ceramides, which are produced naturally in the body from a range of other naturally-occurring lipids, which we class here as essential lipids (not the same as essential fatty acids, which are deemed ‘essential’ as the body cannot produce these naturally.) Using these lipids in skincare helps to support the natural skin barrier, preventing water-loss to keep skin hydrated and balanced.

glycine

histidine

Phytosphingosine (PS) is a lipid which naturally occurs in the stratum corneum (the top, visible layer of our epidermis). This acts as a precursor for ceramide synthesis, meaning it encourages the skin to produce ceramides naturally.

Studies have also shown PS to offer anti-acne benefits, it is believed by reinforcing the protective barrier, and therefore reducing specific abnormalities in the skin functioning that lead to acne (invading inflammatory bacteria, increased keratinization, increased sebaceous gland activity).

phytosphingosine

Sodium hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid (a polysaccharide which occurs naturally in the body), created to improve the ingredient stability. It works as an extremely powerful humectant, able to attract 1000x its own weight in water, to immediately plump and hydrate the area it is applied to. The body’s own production of hyaluronic acid slows with age, so supplementing this ingredient in topical formulations helps to support the skin’s natural moisture-binding, anti-ageing mechanisms.

sodium hyaluronate

Hyaluronic acid is a polysaccharide which occurs naturally in the body. Hyaluronic acid works as an extremely powerful humectant, able to attract 1000x its own weight in water, to immediately plump and hydrate the area it is applied to. The body’s own production of hyaluronic acid slows with age, so supplementing this ingredient in topical formulations helps to support the skin’s natural moisture-binding, anti-ageing mechanisms.

Squalane is a natural substance usually derived from olives. It is structurally very similar to our skin’s own sebum, so is a great ingredient to support our own natural skin processes. In drier skin, which is naturally lacking in natural sebum, it helps to support the skin barrier to prevent water loss, which results in more hydrated, smooth and plump skin. Due to its sebum-mimicking structure, it is non-comedogenic, meaning it won’t cause breakouts, so is also suitable for oily and acne-prone skin. It can be a great option to reduce any over-stimulation of the sebaceous glands, which can occur with excess cleansing (and make breakouts worse). It also works to support the skin barrier to combat any drying effects caused by ingredients commonly associated with acne treatment, so is a great ingredient for all skin types.

squalane

Forget complicated beauty jargon, The Inkey List are a no-funny-business brand who harness the power of science for effective skincare. Their Ceramide Night Treatment works to replicate the naturally occurring Ceramides in your skin, amplifying its ability to retain moisture overnight. Hydrated skin is happy skin, appearing smoother, plumper and softer. Including one of the most sought-after ingredients, hyaluronic acid, this mask offers pure hydration, locking moisture into your skin cells. What’s more, this formula fights signs of premature ageing, helping your complexion to stay youthful and supple.

blackheads

blemishes

enlarged pores

This exfoliating toner is a great option for decongesting skin, smoothing our texture and brightening. It includes 7% Glycolic acid to resurface, alongside other soothing & barrier-supporting ingredients to minimise any side effects caused by the exfoliation.

aloe barbadensis leaf water

Aloe vera has been used for millennia as a natural medicine across many regions of the world, with references as early as Cleopatra using it as part of her beauty routine. It contains around 75 active constituents, including Vitamins A,C & E to provide antioxidant protection, 8 enzymes to inhibit inflammatory processes in the body and 9 different minerals to support the body’s natural functioning. It also includes sugars to provide hydrating humectant properties, fatty acids to provide anti-inflammatory & antiseptic properties, and hormones to promote wound healing.

Glycerin is a humectant present in all natural lipids. It works to attract water molecules towards it, plumping & hydrating the applied area, resulting in smooth, soft, hydrated skin. It is one of the most widely used humectants in skincare, due to it’s high performance and broad availability (making it very cost-effective). Recent research has shown that it’s ability to penetrate the layers of the skin is superior to that of low molecular weight hyaluronic acid, making it a brilliant choice for overall skin hydration, and suitable for all skin types.

glycerin

Glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), derived from sugar cane. AHAs work by dissolving the keratin binding the outermost layer of skin cells, speeding up the skin’s natural exfoliation process. This leads to smoother, brighter, clearer skin, whilst reducing skin discolouration & fine lines/wrinkles with continued use.

Glycolic acid has the smallest molecular weight of all the AHAs, meaning it can penetrate the skin quickest, producing the fastest results, but also most likely to cause skin sensitivity, so it is best for those with fairly tolerant skin types.

glycolic acid

This natural berry is high in antioxidants, to help protect against free radical damage, and also has anti-inflammatory properties to soothe and calm.

tasmannia lanceolata fruit/leaf extract

Urea is humectant ingredient found in the skin’s natural moisturising factor (NMF), making up around 7-8% of the total composition. Its humectant properties mean it can bind to water molecules in the atmosphere, drawing them to it, and in turn plumping and hydrating the skin. Research also shows that Urea has a mild exfoliating action on the skin, encouraging the removal of dead cells which results in smoother, healthier, more hydrated skin.

urea

Glycolic Acid is an alpha hydroxyl acid that exfoliates the skin. This 7% toning solution offers mild exfoliation for improved skin radiance and visible clarity. The formula also improves the appearance of skin texture with continued use. This formula contains a studied Tasmanian Pepperberry derivative to help reduce irritation associated with acid use. This derivative is of plant origin and varies in colour seasonally and this colour variation may be apparent in the formula from time to time. The formula is further supported with inclusion of ginseng root and aloe vera for both visible radiance and soothing benefits.

Counter Culture

lack of radiance

pigmentation

rough skin

scarring

This cult hydrating serum is formulated to boost hydration, smooth texture and plump the skin. The multi-weight hyaluronic acid and Natural Moisturising Factors (NMF) provide deep hydration and support the skin barrier, while superfood antioxidants help protect the skin and improved overall radiance.

Allantoin occurs naturally in the body, but can also be derived from the root of the Comfrey plant or Chamomile, or produced synthetically. It is used in skincare for its ability to promote wound healing and healthy tissue growth, by stimulating the fibroblasts in the dermis to produce collagen and elastin fibres, essential tissues for skin regeneration and healing. Allantoin has also been shown to have soothing and anti-irritant properties, which is thought to be down to its ability to form complexes with irritating agents, thus preventing them from activating inflammatory mechanisms within the skin.

allantoin

This ingredient is used in skincare for it’s hydrating abilities. It works by stimulating the production of Aquaporin 3, a natural substance found in the epidermis to regulate the movement of water between cells. An increased level of Aquaporin 3 in the skin results in improved hydration throughout the surface, and deeper layers, of the skin.

glyceryl glucoside

hyaluronic acid

Lactic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), which occurs naturally in the body, as well as being found in dairy products, but is typically derived synthetically for cosmetics today.

AHAs work by dissolving the keratin binding the outermost layer of skin cells, speeding up the skin’s natural exfoliation process. This leads to smoother, brighter, clearer skin, whilst reducing skin discolouration & fine lines/wrinkles with continued use.  

lactic acid

Lysine is used in skincare to treat hyperpigmentation & post-inflammatory acne scarring.

lysine

phenylalanine

prebiotics

Prebiotics in simple terms, can be classed as a food source that encourages the growth of good bacteria on the skin. The microbiome (the ecosystem of bacteria on the skin) is a relatively new discovery and we are learning that this is linked to many different aspects of our health, mood and appearance. A diverse breadth in the strains of bacteria living on the skin results in a healthy microbiome, and some early research has linked certain imbalances in this microbiome to skin conditions such as acne, ezcema and psoriasis.

soybean extract

Soybean extract is used in skincare for its powerful antioxidant potential, meaning it is able to protect the skin from free radical damage. Research has also shown this extract to be able to visibly even out skin tone, and reduce the visible signs of ageing.

taurine

Calcium pantothenate is the salt of pantothenic acid, a form of Vitamin B5. Its main benefit in cosmetics is as a humectant, meaning it can draw water molecules to it, hydrating and plumping the area it has been applied to.

Pantothenic acid also supports the natural lipid barrier of the skin, by encouraging the production of a precursor to fatty acids & sphingolipids, both of which are essential parts of the skin barrier. This mechanism helps to moisturise the skin by reducing trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), therefore retaining more moisture within the skin. This also helps to reduce inflammation in dry or broken skin, as an intact skin barrier will prevent potential irritants from getting into the epidermis.

vitamin b5

Vitamin B5 is a humectant, meaning it can draw water molecules to it, hydrating and plumping the area it has been applied to. It also supports the natural lipid barrier of the skin, by encouraging the production of a precursor to fatty acids & sphingolipids, both of which are essential parts of the skin barrier. This mechanism helps to moisturise the skin by reducing trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), therefore retaining more moisture within the skin. This also helps to reduce inflammation in dry or broken skin, as an intact skin barrier will prevent potential irritants from getting into the epidermis.

Medik8 Hydr8 B5. Intense 30ml
 Medik8's ultimate hyaluronic acid serum that is expertly designed to unlock your skin's true hydration potential, by replenishing and recharging the skin's natural moisture network for intense visible smoothing and plumping result
 
 The silky, fast-absorbing serum slots into any skin regime needing a hydration boost, clinically proven to work instantly and over time.
 Natural Moisturising Factors (NMF) and superfood antioxidants work with multi-weight hyaluronic acid to flood the skin with moisture so that the look of crepiness and dehydration lines are drastically improved.

Unfragranced

Nut free

firmness

wrinkles

I have chosen this peptide-based serum to target the ageing concerns you mention. Loaded with various anti-ageing peptides, this works to reduce wrinkles and improve skin firmness and smoothness.

Acetylarginyltryptophyl Diphenylglycine is a synthetic tetrapeptide used in skincare for its firming abilities. It works by inhibiting the enzyme elastase, which breaks down elastin in the skin (the protein responsible for skin firmness and elasticity). This reduction in elastase allows for higher levels of elastin in the skin, which in turn leads to skin that looks firmer, tighter and restructured.

acetylarginyltryptophyl diphenylglycine

acetyl hexapeptide

dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate

Lactococcus Ferment Lysate is a post-biotic ingredient derived from Gram-positive bacteria, Lactococcus lactis. It is used in skincare for its ability to increase the speed of epidermal growth, leading to a thicker stratum corneum (outermost layer of the skin), and in turn better barrier function. This is seen as healthier-looking, more hydrated and supple skin.

lactococcus ferment lysate

Probiotics can be defined as living bacteria which are good for the skin, and are useful to include in skincare formulations in order to populate a healthy microbiome (the ecosystem of bacteria on the skin). A diverse breadth in the strains of bacteria living on the skin results in a healthy microbiome, and some early research has linked certain imbalances in this microbiome to skin conditions such as acne, ezcema and psoriasis.

palmitoyl tetrapeptide

pentapeptide

Sodium Hyaluronate crosspolymer is a modified version of Hyaluronic acid, with additional polymers added to it to slow skin penetration, keeping it in the upper layers of the epidermis for longer to provide surface hydration.

sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer

This formula combines a comprehensive array of studied technologies to target multiple signs of aging at once. The technologies are Matrixyl™ 3000 peptide complex (with palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7), Matrixyl™ synthe'6™ peptide complex (with palmitoyl tripeptide-38), SYN™-AKE peptide complex (with dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate), Relistase peptide complex (with acetylarginyltryptophyl diphenylglycine), ARGIRELOX™ peptide complex (with acetyl hexapeptide-8, pentapeptide-18), Probiotic complex (with lactococcus lactis lysate), in a base of 11 skin-friendly amino acids and multiple hyaluronic acid complexes. The total concentration of these technologies in the formula by weight is 25.1%.

Vegan

This simple moisturiser is a great option for you to add hydration to the skin and support the natural lipid barrier without clogging pores. It is packed with ingredients which occur as part of the natural moisturising layer of the skin, to help support surface hydration and keep skin healthy.

Linoleic is an Omega 6 essential fatty acid (EFA), found in many plant oils: corn, safflower & sunflower. Linoleic acid forms the fatty acid based of Ceramides EOH, EOS and EOP, which are essential for the normal functioning of the skin barrier. Applying linoleic acid topically helps to support ceramide functioning within the skin, leading to improved skin hydration and smoothness.

Research also shows that sebum in acne-prone skin can be lacking in Omega 6 (with too much Omega 3), so there is evidence to suggest applying this topically can help to balance the sebum composition and in turn reduce acne lesions.

linoleic acid

Sodium lactate is a salt produced by the fermentation of lactic acid. It acts as a humectant in the skin, drawing water molecules from the atmosphere towards it to plump and hydrate. It is present in the skin’s natural moisturising factor (NMF), as both sodium and lactate. Studies have shown that lactate levels in the stratum corneum directly correlate with the hydration levels within the skin, with low levels resulting in dry, rough, flaky skin. Applying this ingredient topically helps the natural water-binding capacity of the epidermis, resulting in smoother, softer, more hydrated skin.

sodium lactate

Effectively hydrate skin with The Ordinary Natural Moisturising Factors + HA; a non-greasy moisturiser that supplements skin with a selection of Natural Moisturising Factors to help protect and nourish. Glycerine and molecular weight Hyaluronic Acid quench dryness, while essential amino and fatty acids replenish the lipid layer for improved water retention. A complex blend of phospholipids, triglycerides and saccharides ensure long-lasting results for skin that feels smooth, soft and supple.

We love that this perfect lightweight, yet hydrating moisturiser can be used on all skin types. The oil-free yet hydrating formula is enriched with Hyaluronic Acid to plump and moisturise the skin without feeling heavy. As well as being cruelty-free and vegan, The Ordinary Natural Moisturising Factors + HA is also free from alcohol, oil, silicone, nuts and gluten. Ideal for all skin types but especially those with a drier complexion, it features a blend of phospholipids, triglycerides and saccharides keep the outer layer of the skin protected and well-hydrated for a soft, supple feel.

I have chosen this ultra-hydrating formula for you to support the skins natural barrier, whilst addressing some of the key signs of ageing you mention: wrinkles and skin firmness. The formula is oil-free so is a great option for combination - oily skin types with dehydrated skin.

bacillus/folic acid/soybean ferment extract

Tocopheryl acetate is a specific form of the fat-soluble Vitamin E, with improved stability vs. Tocopherol. Vitamin E is found naturally in our own skin, and it’s main benefit is to offer powerful antioxidant protection against pollution and free radical damage. It also helps to support our skin’s natural lipid barrier, which in turn improves the hydration levels within the epidermis, as water loss through the skin is minimised.

tocopheryl acetate

Vitamin E is a fat-soluble Vitamin contained in many plant oils, or can also be produced synthetically. Vitamin E is found naturally in our own skin, and it’s main benefit is to offer powerful antioxidant protection against pollution and free radical damage. It also helps to support our skin’s natural lipid barrier, which in turn improves the hydration levels within the epidermis, as water loss through the skin is minimised.

yeast amino acids

Intensely hydrating oil-free water gel contains revolutionary Cumulative Hydration-Release Technology that instantly locks moisture to skin and increases retention for up to 5 days.  A nutrient-charged blend of peptides, vitamins and minerals strengthens the skin's barrier for smooth, plump skin.

loss of firmness

This exfoliating toner targets blemishes and congestion with 2% salicylic acid to unclog pores and reduce excess sebum. Colloidal silver and Pro-Vit D3 provide anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory benefits, promoting a clearer and calmer complexion.

Ascorbyl palmitate is an oil-soluble Vitamin C ester, produced by the reaction of ascorbic acid and palmitic acid. This oil-soluble form works to improve stability against oxidation (something L-ascorbic acid is notorious for), as well as improve skin affinity to allow the ingredient to penetrate further.

ascorbyl palmitate

Gluconolactone is a poly hydroxy acid (PHA). PHAs work by gently dissolving the keratin that binds our outermost layer of skin cells, encouraging the natural exfoliation process of the skin, leading to smoother, clearer skin. This process also encourages new skin cell generation in the basal layer of the epidermis, a process which naturally slows with age, so with repeated use this can have an overall anti-ageing effect on the skin. Gluconolactone has also been shown to inhibit the enzyme elastase, which breaks down elastin in the skin (an essential protein produced by the fibroblasts), leading to sagging of the skin.

PHAs are much larger in molecular weight vs AHAs so they cannot penetrate the skin as fast or as far, which therefore makes more gentle & suitable for more sensitive skin types, including those with rosacea-prone skin. Gluconolactone is also especially good for drier skin types as it also has natural humectant qualities, meaning it draws water towards it, hydrating the skin from within. 

gluconolactone

Polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) work by gently dissolving the keratin that binds our outermost layer of skin cells, encouraging the natural exfoliation process of the skin, leading to smoother, clearer skin. This process also encourages new skin cell generation in the basal layer of the epidermis, a process which naturally slows with age, so with repeated use this can have an overall anti-ageing effect on the skin. Gluconolactone has also been shown to inhibit the enzyme elastase, which breaks down elastin in the skin (an essential protein produced by the fibroblasts), leading to sagging of the skin.

PHAs are much larger in molecular weight vs AHAs so they cannot penetrate the skin as fast or as far, which therefore makes more gentle & suitable for more sensitive skin types, including those with rosacea-prone skin. Gluconolactone is also especially good for drier skin types as it also has natural humectant qualities, meaning it draws water towards it, hydrating the skin from within. 

green algae

horse chesnut extract

Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA), which occurs naturally in willow bark. Salicylic acid works as an exfoliating acid to dissolve the keratin that binds the outermost layers of the skin, encouraging the natural exfoliation process of the skin.

Due to its oil-soluble form, salicylic acid can penetrate inside the pore, to clear out dead skin cell build up and prevent comedones (blocked pores) from occurring, or acne-causing bacteria to overpopulate within the pore. This P.Acnes bacteria is anaerobic so needs an oxygen-free environment to thrive, and thus require a pore to be blocked.

salicylic acid

vitamin e

Oskia Violet Water BHA Tonic 100ml.
 
 With 2% Salicylic Acid, Colloidal Silver, Pro-Vit D3, Yuzu & Violet Willow
 CLEARING - EXFOLIATING - BRIGHTENING
 A purifying exfoliating treatment tonic, containing 31 actives, to support, clear and brighten congested skin. Helps unclog pores and reduce the appearance of blemishes to keep skin clearer, calmer, brighter and nurtured, revealing a healthier-looking complexion.
 
 
 Up to 35% reduction in blemishes after 2 weeks, 58% after 4 weeks and 98% reduction of c.acne bacteria
 
 Independent clinical trials over 4 weeks on 30 subjects with oily/acne prone skin when using the complete Violet Water range. Aged 18-50. Mixed Fitzpatrick 1 - 6 (20% being Fitzpatrick 6). Mixed ethnicity.
 
 
 Best for
 Congested, hormonal or oily skins, or during warmer months to keep skin clear and bright.
 
 
 
 Key benefits
 
 
 
 
 Targets the five key concerns associated with oily, blemish prone skin, and much more...
 
 Helps unclog pores and keep them clear and healthy.
 Anti-bacterial.
 Anti-inflammatory.
 Helps reduce excess sebum production.
 Soothes and calms.
 Supports and encourages the natural repair and regeneration process.
 
 Fragrance free but with a natural scent of fruits and rose.

I have chosen this active-packed anti-ageing cream to target the concerns you have around wrinkles & skin firmness. The product contains a host of peptides and amino acids, to trigger the production of collagen within the skin, alongside gentle PHAs for mild resurfacing, and plant antioxidants to protect the skin from free radical damage.

acetyl glucosamine

acetyl tyrosinamide

Maltobionic acid is a non-irritating poly hydroxy acid (PHA) derived from natural sugars. PHAs provide a gentle exfoliation of the skin, encouraging dead cells to be shed from the surface, and new cells to be produced in the basal layer of the epidermis. This process leads to smoother, less congested & more radiant skin, whilst reducing discolouration & fine lines to provide visible anti-ageing results.

Maltobionic acid is also an antioxidant, protecting skin from harmful effects of free radicals within the body, as well as inhibiting specific enzymes which lead to degradation of our skin proteins, so this mechanism keeps skin more youthful. Maltobionic acid also has humectant qualities, meaning it is able to draw water molecules to it, plumping & hydrating the area which it is applied. It was patented in 2000 by Neostrata, as one of their ‘Bionic acids’.

maltobionic acid

Polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) work by gently dissolving the keratin that binds our outermost layer of skin cells, encouraging the natural exfoliation process of the skin, leading to smoother, clearer skin. This process also encourages new skin cell generation in the basal layer of the epidermis, a process which naturally slows with age, so with repeated use this can have an overall anti-ageing effect on the skin. Gluconolactone has also been shown to inhibit the enzyme elastase, which breaks down elastin in the skin (an essential protein produced by the fibroblasts), leading to sagging of the skin.

PHAs are much larger in molecular weight vs AHAs so they cannot penetrate the skin as fast or as far, which therefore makes more gentle & suitable for more sensitive skin types, including those with rosacea-prone skin. Gluconolactone is also especially good for drier skin types as it also has natural humectant qualities, meaning it draws water towards it, hydrating the skin from within.

palmitoyl tripeptide

vitis vinifera (grape) seed extract

Resveratrol in a polyphenol most famously found in the skin of red grapes, but also occurs naturally in peanuts and certain fruits such as blueberries and cranberries. It is included in skincare for its powerful antioxidant abilities - with research showing it can protect against free radicals, as well as oxidative damage caused by UV. 

Intensively moisturizes and hydrates, reduces the appearance of wrinkles. Overall skin appears smoother, brighter, more radiant and firm. Contains the building blocks of skin’s Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF). Oil-free, non-comedogenic.

Peptides can stimulate specific mechanisms in the skin (e.g. collagen production), so are great ingredients for keeping skin looking youthful for longer.

Youth-boosting moisturiser picks

This formula has been clinically proven to lift, firm and add volume to the skin. It contains high levels of maltobionic acid to gently resurface, smooth & brighten the skin, alongside anti-ageing peptides to firm and lift, and acetyl glucosamine to brighten and natural resveratrol (from grape extract), to act as a powerful antioxidant. Oil free, non-comedogenic.

Packed with naturally-occurring constituents of the skin barrier, such as ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids, this formula is great for nourishing drier skin or supporting strong actives like retinoids or acids in your routine. It also contains peptides to firm, acetyl glucosamine to brighten, and dragonfruit extract to tighten.

This rich cream works by delivering hyaluronic acid into the skin, whilst stimulating the skins own production of this powerful humectant to deliver long term hydration to the skin. It also works to plump the skin, boost radiance and provide visible anti-ageing effects, with a user trial showing that after 4 weeks, 82% agreed their wrinkles appeared reduced.

Nourishing, yet quick to absorb, this fuss-free moisturiser contains two different peptides, to firm skin and reduce fine lines. Alongside this, glycerin as a humectant to hydrate, and Vitamin E as an antioxidant.

This afforable nourishing formula contains a blend of ingredients to support overall skin health. A seaweed-derived collagen works to plump and hydrate the skin, lactic acid gently exfoliates, magnesium pca boosts radiance and shea butter nourishes.

I have chosen this hydrating serum for you to add moisture into the skin and support your skin barrier. It contains hyaluronic acid to pull hydration into the skin, as well as ceramides and amino acids to support a healthy skin barrier.

Tocopherol, aka Vitamin E, is a fat-soluble Vitamin contained in many plant oils, or can also be produced synthetically. Vitamin E is found naturally in our own skin, and it’s main benefit is to offer powerful antioxidant protection against pollution and free radical damage. It also helps to support our skin’s natural lipid barrier, which in turn improves the hydration levels within the epidermis, as water loss through the skin is minimised.

tocopherol

Highly concentrated 3% hyaluronic acid serum that hydrates, plumps, soothes and supports the skin's moisture barrier.

These serums all contain hyaluronic acid, which is a powerful humectant, meaning it can attract surrounding water molecules towards it to hydrate and plump the skin.

Hyaluronic acid serum picks

This best-selling formula is a lightweight gel-serum texture, containing hyaluronic acid, alongside two forms of panthenol (Vitamin B5) to hydrate thirsty skin.

This serum is loaded with hydrators, soothers and antioxidants to support overall skin health. Plant extract of bisabolol (derived from chamomile) to soothe the skin, hyaluronic and panthenol, gluconolactone to gentle exfoliate plus liquorice, prebiotics and black tea for added plant protection.

This is an excellent hyaluronic acid serum, packed with hydrators and skin lipids for extra support of the skin barrier. Ceramides, cholesterol, hyaluronic acid and panthenol work to keep skin hydrated, plump and dewy.

This hydrating essence is a silky smooth, absorbs quickly and leaves skin hydrated and dewy. It contains a powerful blend of hydrating humectants: hyaluronic acid, panthenol and glycerin.

This hydrating hyaluronic acid serum contains two different size of hyaluronic acid for adding a quick hit of hydration to the skin, at a fantastic price point.

This affordable formula contains hyaluronic acid alongside other natural hydrators lactic acid, betaine and biosaccharide gum. A fantastic affordable option for adding an extra layer of hydration to the skin.

UK made

Diverse founder

Clinically proven

Hypoallergenic

Dermatologically tested

Sensitive

daily protection

I have chosen this ultra-lightweight SPF50 fluid for your morning routine. The Heliocare 360 range offers protection against broad-spectrum UV, alongside high energy visible and infra-red light, so provides some of the most comprehensive technology on the market. Their patented FernBlock also helps support DNA to prevent damage.

Known as FernBlock, this is a patented active from Heliocare, developed alongside Harvard medical school. It is derived from a tropical fern native to South America, and works by protecting against UVB-induced sunburn, as well as protecting against UVA and Infrared wavelengths. The active is also able to support cell renewal and protect from cumulative damage caused by sun exposure (such as ageing and DNA damage). It is an antioxidant, protecting against free radicals, and has been shown to boost production of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid in the skin.

FernBlock

Indian gooseberry (also known as amla) has one of the highest concentrations of any fruit, of antioxidants such as gallic acid and  quercetin. Studies have also shown this fruit to have great results in reducing signs of sensitivity and redness.

indian gooseberry

Heliocare 360º Water Gel SPF 50+ contains an innovative continuous-release hydration system with ingredients that act in synergy to provide 70% increase in immediate after 1 application and 80% in long-lasting hydration on 2nd day. Ultra light weight, melts right into the skin without leaving white cast. This sunscreen comprises of DNA repair enzymes to reverse damages caused by the sun, slowing down premature skin aging and a unique Bioshield system to absorb up to 200% more blue light than our skin and effectively target the damages from infrared radiation-A. Enhanced with physical barrier and cellular protection for anti-pollution activity, reducing the formation of free radicals that can cause premature skin aging. Its 360º formula combines the exclusive Fernblock®+ Technology with other actives to guarantee full spectrum photoprotection against blue light, infrared radiation-A, UVB and UVA, and an intense anti-oxidant and repairing activity against sun damage.

Broad-spectrum sunscreen is essential in every skincare routine. These SPF50 fluids are lightweight and will layer well over the rest of your routine.

Daily sunscreen SPF50 fluid picks

This lightweight, high protection SPF50 fluid not only protects against UVA and UVB, but also against infra-red and blue light, which can also cause damage to the skin (blue light is emitted from the sun, as well as from mobile phones/computer screens). The formula also includes FernBlock to provide antioxidant protection and intense skin repairing benefits, plus a continuous-release hydration system which has shown to provide an 80% increase in hydration 1 day after application. In terms of protection, the Heliocare 360 range are some of the most advanced formulas on the market, and this one works on all skin tones.

Already a cult classic in the beauty community, this fragrance and silicone-free cream texture melts into the skin to leave an imperceptable finish. It contains niacinamide to brighten, regulate sebum production and support the protective skin barrier, as well as extracts of centella asiatica to reduce redness and soothe irritation in the skin. Great for all skin tones.

This is a brilliant sunscreen fluid SPF50, great for daily protection. The texture is super lightweight, despite not containing silicones, and has been tested as reef safe.

This super light high protection SPF50 fluid is a great option as a final step in your routine. The formula is fragrance free and non-comedogenic, and contains 3 different powders to provide a dry-touch finish. May leave a white cast on medium - deep skin tones.

Serine

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Serine

What is Serine?

What does Serine do?

Who is Serine good for?

Who should avoid Serine?

Treatments (4)

Hydrators (2)

SPFs (1)