Ingredients in Skincare

Maltobionic Acid

Maltobionic acid is a non-irritating poly hydroxy acid (PHA) derived from natural sugars. PHAs provide a gentle exfoliation of the skin, encouraging dead cells to be shed from the surface, and new cells to be produced in the basal layer of the epidermis. This process leads to smoother, less congested & more radiant skin, whilst reducing discolouration & fine lines to provide visible anti-ageing results. Maltobionic acid is also an antioxidant, protecting skin from harmful effects of free radicals within the body, as well as inhibiting specific enzymes which lead to degradation of our skin proteins, so this mechanism keeps skin more youthful. Maltobionic acid also has humectant qualities, meaning it is able to draw water molecules to it, plumping & hydrating the area which it is applied. It was patented in 2000 by Neostrata, as one of their ‘Bionic acids’. Maltobionic acid is in a class of polyhydroxy acid ingredients also known by gluconolactone and lactobionic acid.

Saccharomyces Cerevisiae (Yeast) Extract

Saccharomyces Cerevisiae (Yeast) Extract

Yeast extract (e.g. Saccharomyces Cerevisiae) is used in skincare for its benefits as a moisturising and soothing agent. It has strong antioxidant properties to protect against free radical damage and its fermented nature means it also functions as a prebiotic on the skin (meaning it acts as a food source for beneficial skin bacteria to thrive). Prebiotics are in a class of ingredients that can be found on ingredients lists as alpha-glucan oligosaccharide, fructooligosaccharides, lactobacillus extract filtrate and rhamnose.

Fomes Officinalis (Mushroom) Extract

Fomes Officinalis (Mushroom) Extract

Fomes officinalis is in a class of ingredients also known as mushroom extract and polyporus umbellatus (mushroom) extract

Histidine

Histidine

Histidine is a semi-essential amino acid which the body does not produce. When synthetically produced is known for being more hydrating to the skin. Amino acids are a class of ingredients. They can also be found on ingredients lists as acetyl glucosamine,acetyl tyrosinamide, alanine, arginine hcl, arginine pca, histidine, isoleucine, lysine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine and valine and yeast amino acids.

Oligopeptide

Oligopeptides are short chains of amino acids that can mimic the natural DNA structure and interfere with the ageing process. It is in a class of ingredients also found on ingredients lists as acetylarginyltryptophyl diphenylglycine, acetyl tetrapeptide, arginine/lysine polypeptide, azelaoyl bis-dipeptide, copper heptapeptide-14 pantothenate, dipeptide, dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, ferric hexapeptide, heptapeptide-15, palmitate, myristol hexapeptide, myristol pentapeptide, myristoyl nonapeptide, myristoyl pentapeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl decapeptide, palmitoyl heptapeptide, palmitoyl hexapeptide, palmitoyl nonapeptide, palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl pentapeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, pentapeptide, sh-oligopeptide, tetrapeptide and copper palmitoyl heptapeptide.

Palmitoyl Heptapeptide

Many peptides function as anti-ageing ingredients in skincare, due to their ability to fit specific receptors in the body to trigger anti-ageing responses. This includes mechanisms like collagen production, cell regeneration or even blocking muscle contractions to smooth expression lines. Peptides are made up of amino acids, and are unique in shape, with a huge variety available to target specific responses in the body. It is from a class of ingredients also found on ingredients lists as acetyl hexapeptide, acetyl tetrapeptide, acetylarginyltryptophyl diphenylglycine, arginine/lysine polypeptide, azelaoyl bis-dipeptide, copper heptapeptide-14 pantothenate, dipeptide, dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, ferric hexapeptide, heptapeptide-15, palmitate, myristol hexapeptide, myristol pentapeptide, myristoyl nonapeptide, myristoyl pentapeptide, oligopeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl decapeptide, palmitoyl heptapeptide, palmitoyl nonapeptide, palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl pentapeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, pentapeptide, sh-oligopeptide, tetrapeptide and copper palmitoyl heptapeptide.

Lactobacillus Extract Filtrate

Lactobacillus Extract Filtrate

Lactobacillus Extract Filtrate is a cell-free extract (CFE) of the lactobacillus microorganism. This means it is no longer a living bacteria (probiotic), but an extract of a once-living bacteria, which functions as a prebiotic. This active has been shown via clinical studies from the manufacturer, Evonik, to encourage the growth of beneficial skin bacteria, as well as support the natural skin barrier function, helping to protect against skin roughness and dryness. Lactobacillus extract filtrate is in a class of prebiotic ingredients and can be found on ingredients lists as alpha-glucan oligosaccharide, fructooligosaccharides, rhamnose and saccharomyces cerevisiae (yeast) extract.

Lactococcus Ferment Lysate

Lactococcus Ferment Lysate

Lactococcus Ferment Lysate is a post-biotic ingredient derived from Gram-positive bacteria, Lactococcus lactis. It is used in skincare for its ability to increase the speed of epidermal growth, leading to a thicker stratum corneum (outermost layer of the skin), and in turn better barrier function. This is seen as healthier-looking, more hydrated and supple skin. Lactococcus ferment lysate sits in a class of probiotic ingredients which can be found on ingredients lists as bifida ferment lysate and lactobacillus ferment.

Myristol Pentapeptide

Myristoyl pentapeptide is an anti-aging peptide that promotes cell regeneration and is used in skincare to treat fine lines and wrinkles. It is in a class of ingredients also found on ingredients lists as acetylarginyltryptophyl diphenylglycine, acetyl tetrapeptide, arginine/lysine polypeptide, azelaoyl bis-dipeptide, copper heptapeptide-14 pantothenate, dipeptide, dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, ferric hexapeptide, heptapeptide-15, palmitate, myristol hexapeptide, myristoyl nonapeptide, myristoyl pentapeptide, oligopeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl decapeptide, palmitoyl heptapeptide, palmitoyl hexapeptide, palmitoyl nonapeptide, palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl pentapeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, pentapeptide, sh-oligopeptide, tetrapeptide and copper palmitoyl heptapeptide.

L-Ascorbic Acid

L-Ascorbic Acid

Part of the Vitamin C family of ingredients, L-ascorbic acid is Vitamin C in its purest form, and the active form required by the body to result in the many skin skin benefits of Vitamin C. The issue with L-ascorbic acid is in the delivery, as it is very unstable in water, and needs a pH 4 or below for it to penetrate the skin. That being said, when it can be stabilised in a formula and is able to penetrate the skin, it provides the highest potency of any form of Vitamin C currently available. Vitamin C can also be found on ingredients lists as ascorbic acid, ascorbyl glucoside, ascorbyl palmitate, ethyl ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate and tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate.

Chondrus Crispus

Algae

Algae is an incredibly interesting natural ingredient source. There are many types of algae (kelp, laminaria, microalgae) but in general in all its forms, it acts as a powerful antioxidant, protecting from free radical damage, as well as being able to hydrate the skin and deliver naturally-occurring vitamins into the skin. It is in the class of Algae Extract which also include ahnfeltia concinna extract, alaria esculenta extract, algae exopolysaccharides, algin, alteromonas ferment extract, ascophyllum nodosum extract, asparagopsis armata extract, chlorella protothecoides, vibrio alginolyticus ferment filtrate, dunaliella salina (green algae) extract, hydrolyzed f-fucoidan, laminaria ochroleuca (kelp) extract, macrocystis pyrifera (kelp) extract, marine extract, parachlorella beijerinckii exopolysaccharides, padina pavonica thallus extract, plankton extract, porphyridium cruentum extract, pseudoalteromonas exopolysaccharides, tripleurospermum maritimum extract, chlorella protothecoides oil and chlorella protothecoides oil.

Ferric Hexapeptide

Ferric hexapeptide is an anti-ageing peptide and is used in skincare to treat fine lines and wrinkles. It is in a class of ingredients also found on ingredients lists as acetylarginyltryptophyl diphenylglycine, acetyl tetrapeptide, arginine/lysine polypeptide, azelaoyl bis-dipeptide, copper heptapeptide-14 pantothenate, dipeptide, dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, heptapeptide-15, palmitate, myristol hexapeptide, myristol pentapeptide, myristoyl nonapeptide, myristoyl pentapeptide, oligopeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl decapeptide, palmitoyl heptapeptide, palmitoyl hexapeptide, palmitoyl nonapeptide, palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl pentapeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, pentapeptide, sh-oligopeptide, tetrapeptide and copper palmitoyl heptapeptide.

Octisalate

Ethylhexyl Salicylate

Octisalate/Octyl Salicylate is a synthetic UV filter used in sun care products to provide protection against UVB wavelengths of 290-320 nm, with a peak absorbance at 306 nm. Other ingredients in the class of synthetic UV filters include bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyl triazone, homosalate, octinoxate, octocrylene and triazine diethyl butamidotriazone.

Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract

Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract

Padina pavonica, also known as peacocks tail, is a brown algae native to the Mediterranean coast. It is rich in polysaccharides, which provide humectant properties, meaning they can draw water molecules to them to plump & hydrate the surrounding area. It is also shown to have anti-pollution effects, protecting skin against free radical and heavy metal exposure. It is in the class of Algae Extract which also include ahnfeltia concinna extract, alaria esculenta extract, algae exopolysaccharides, algin, alteromonas ferment extract, ascophyllum nodosum extract, asparagopsis armata extract, chlorella protothecoides, chlorella vulgaris extract, dunaliella salina (green algae) extract, hydrolyzed f-fucoidan, laminaria ochroleuca (kelp) extract, macrocystis pyrifera (kelp) extract, marine extract, parachlorella beijerinckii exopolysaccharides, plankton extract, porphyridium cruentum extract, pseudoalteromonas exopolysaccharides, tripleurospermum maritimum extract, vibrio alginolyticus ferment filtrate, chlorella protothecoides oil

Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate

Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate

Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a part of the vitamin A family of ingredients, and is classed as an ester of retinoic acid. This means it is able to bind directly with the retinoic acid receptors in our body, without the need for conversion first (a process all retinol derivatives undergo, which typically reduces their potency). Hydroxypinacolone retinoate is part of a family of ingredients also found on ingredients lists as retinol, retinaldehyde, Retinoic acid (aka tretinoin), encapsulated retinaldehyde, retinyl palmitate, retinyl propionate or retinyl retinoate (8x more powerful than retinol).