Ingredients in Skincare

Palmitoyl Oligopeptide

Many peptides function as anti-ageing ingredients in skincare, due to their ability to fit specific receptors in the body to trigger anti-ageing responses. This includes mechanisms like collagen production, cell regeneration or even blocking muscle contractions to smooth expression lines. Peptides are made up of amino acids, and are unique in shape, with a huge variety available to target specific responses in the body. It is from a class of ingredients also found on ingredients lists as acetyl hexapeptide, acetyl tetrapeptide, acetylarginyltryptophyl diphenylglycine, arginine/lysine polypeptide, azelaoyl bis-dipeptide, copper heptapeptide-14 pantothenate, dipeptide, dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, ferric hexapeptide, heptapeptide-15, palmitate, myristol hexapeptide, myristol pentapeptide, myristoyl nonapeptide, myristoyl pentapeptide, oligopeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl decapeptide, palmitoyl heptapeptide, palmitoyl hexapeptide, palmitoyl nonapeptide, palmitoyl pentapeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, pentapeptide, sh-oligopeptide, tetrapeptide and copper palmitoyl heptapeptide.

Ascorbic Acid

Ascorbic Acid

Part of the Vitamin C family of ingredients, L-ascorbic acid is Vitamin C in its purest form, and the active form required by the body to result in the many skin skin benefits of Vitamin C. The issue with L-ascorbic acid is in the delivery, as it is very unstable in water, and needs a pH 4 or below for it to penetrate the skin. That being said, when it can be stabilised in a formula and is able to penetrate the skin, it provides the highest potency of any form of Vitamin C currently available. Vitamin C can also be found on ingredients lists as ascorbyl glucoside, ascorbyl palmitate, ethyl ascorbic acid, l-ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate and tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate.

Zinc Sulfate

Zinc Sulfate

The jury is still out on the efficacy of this zinc derivative, but it is used in skincare for its antibacterial and astringent properties. This means it is able to fight blemish-causing C. Acnes bacteria, as well as minimise sebum production via its astringent effect. Zinc sulfate is part of a family of ingredients that can also be found on ingredients lists as zinc gluconate, zinc pca and zinc sulphate.

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Part of the Vitamin C family of ingredients, Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate is a water-soluble, medium-strength, derivative of Vitamin C. It is designed to have improved stability vs. pure Vitamin C, with a strong conversion to ascorbic acid (the active form of Vitamin C) within the body. It has extremely low sensitisation profile vs other forms which can cause stinging and dryness/irritation. Vitamin C can also be found on ingredients lists as ascorbic acid, ascorbyl glucoside, ascorbyl palmitate, ethyl ascorbic acid, l-ascorbic acid, sodium ascorbyl phosphate and tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate.

Argan Oil

Argania Spinosa (Argan) Kernel Oil

Argan oil is derived from the nut of the Argan tree which grows in Morocco, it is naturally high in Vitamin E and fatty acids, which work to nourish the skin, protect the natural lipid barrier and provide antioxidant protection against free radicals.

Naringenin Chalcone

Naringenin chalcone is a flavonoid compound derived from citrus fruits, particularly grapefruits. In skincare, it is used for its potential antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin-brightening properties.

Resveratrol

Vitis Vinifera

Resveratrol is a family of ingredients also known as vitis vinifera (organic, cold pressed concord grape) seed oil, vitis vinifera (grape) flower cell extract, vitis vinifera (grape) fruit extract, vitis vinifera (grape) seed extract, vitis vinifera seed extract or vitis vinifera (organic). Most famously found in the skin of red grapes, but also occurring naturally in peanuts and certain fruits such as blueberries and cranberries. It is included in skincare for its powerful antioxidant abilities. Research shows it can protect against free radicals, as well as oxidative damage caused by UV.

Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract

Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract

Ascophyllum nodosum extract is a type of cold water brown seaweed that has antioxidant properties and serves as a texture enhancer in cosmetics. It is found along the shorelines in cold areas of the world, such as Northern Canada and Iceland. It is in the class of Algae Extract which also include ahnfeltia concinna extract, alaria esculenta extract, algae exopolysaccharides, algin, alteromonas ferment extract, alteromonas ferment extract, asparagopsis armata extract, chlorella protothecoides, chlorella vulgaris extract, dunaliella salina (green algae) extract, hydrolyzed f-fucoidan, laminaria ochroleuca (kelp) extract, macrocystis pyrifera (kelp) extract, marine extract, padina pavonica thallus extract, parachlorella beijerinckii exopolysaccharides, plankton extract, porphyridium cruentum extract, pseudoalteromonas exopolysaccharides, tripleurospermum maritimum extract, vibrio alginolyticus ferment filtrate, chlorella protothecoides oil

Citric Acid

Citric Acid

Citric acid (in dilution) is often used in tiny quantities to adjust the pH of a formula to be more acidic. In higher doses, it acts as an Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA), encouraging the skin’s natural exfoliation process to brighten, smooth and refine overall skin texture.

Rhamnose

Rhamnose

Rhamnose is a naturally occurring sugar found in plant sources such as buckthorn and birch. Studies have shown that its molecular size and structure allows it to penetrate to the area between the base of the epidermis and the top of the dermis, known as the ‘dermo-epidermal junction’. This is important as this is where the fibroblasts are situated, which produce the key skin proteins collagen and elastin, which contribute to overall skin structure & firmness. In vivo studies (on humans) from the manufacturers have shown that applying a product including rhamnose once daily for 8 weeks resulting in an increase in collagen production, and a decrease in overall wrinkle depth. Prebiotics are in a class of ingredients that can be found on ingredients lists as alpha-glucan oligosaccharide, fructooligosaccharides, lactobacillus extract filtrate and saccharomyces cerevisiae (yeast) extract.

Arginine HCL

Arginine HCL

Arginine is an amino acid that can be found in food sources such as almonds and chocolate. Arginine is an essential amino acid that the body cannot produce on its own. It is often referred to as the ‘master amino acid’ and has a number of benefits to skin health. Amino acids are a class of ingredients. They can also be found on ingredients lists as acetyl glucosamine, acetyl tyrosinamide, alanine, arginine hcl, arginine pca, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, lysine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine and valine and yeast amino acids.

Tartaric Acid

Tartaric Acid

Tartaric acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) which works to exfoliate the top layer of the skin. This helps to remove dead skin cells which might be blocking the pores, which in turn reduces the instances of blemishes and breakouts.

Asparagopsis Armata Extract

Asparagopsis Armata Extract

asparagopsis armata extract is an extract of the red algae plant. It has antioxidant properties that protect, soothe, and hydrate the skin. It is in the class of Algae Extract which also include ahnfeltia concinna extract, alaria esculenta extract, algae exopolysaccharides, algin, alteromonas ferment extract, alteromonas ferment extract, ascophyllum nodosum extract, chlorella protothecoides, chlorella vulgaris extract, dunaliella salina (green algae) extract, hydrolyzed f-fucoidan, laminaria ochroleuca (kelp) extract, macrocystis pyrifera (kelp) extract, and marine extract.

Caffeine

Caffeine, derived from the coffee plant, is used in skincare as an antioxidant and a vasoconstricting agent. Its antioxidant properties help to protect against free radicals, neutralising them before they can cause damage to the skin cells. Its vasoconstricting abilities make it good for draining water retention from around the eye area, to reduce puff, and for reducing skin redness by constricting the capillaries whose dilation visually increases skin redness by passing blood closer to the skin’s surface.

Arginine

Arginine

Arginine is an amino acid that can be found in food sources such as almonds and chocolate. Arginine is an essential amino acid that the body cannot produce on its own. It is often referred to as the ‘master amino acid’ and has a number of benefits to skin health. Amino acids are a class of ingredients. They can also be found on ingredients lists as acetyl glucosamine, acetyl tyrosinamide, alanine, arginine hcl, arginine pca, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, lysine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine and valine and yeast amino acids.