Ingredients in Skincare

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide

Many peptides function as anti-ageing ingredients in skincare, due to their ability to fit specific receptors in the body to trigger anti-ageing responses. This includes mechanisms like collagen production, cell regeneration or even blocking muscle contractions to smooth expression lines. Peptides are made up of amino acids, and are unique in shape, with a huge variety available to target specific responses in the body. It is from a class of ingredients also found on ingredients lists as acetyl hexapeptide, acetyl tetrapeptide, acetylarginyltryptophyl diphenylglycine, arginine/lysine polypeptide, azelaoyl bis-dipeptide, copper heptapeptide-14 pantothenate, dipeptide, dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, ferric hexapeptide, heptapeptide-15, palmitate, myristol hexapeptide, myristol pentapeptide, myristoyl nonapeptide, myristoyl pentapeptide, oligopeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl decapeptide, palmitoyl heptapeptide, palmitoyl hexapeptide, palmitoyl nonapeptide, palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, pentapeptide, sh-oligopeptide, tetrapeptide and copper palmitoyl heptapeptide.

Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate

Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate

Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a part of the vitamin A family of ingredients, and is classed as an ester of retinoic acid. This means it is able to bind directly with the retinoic acid receptors in our body, without the need for conversion first (a process all retinol derivatives undergo, which typically reduces their potency). Hydroxypinacolone retinoate is part of a family of ingredients also found on ingredients lists as retinol, retinaldehyde, Retinoic acid (aka tretinoin), encapsulated retinaldehyde, retinyl palmitate, retinyl propionate or retinyl retinoate (8x more powerful than retinol).

Caprooyl Phytosphingosine

Caprooyl Phytosphingosine

Caprooyl Phytosphingosine is a mixture of fatty acids Caproic acid and Phytosphingosine. It acts as a precursor for ceramide synthesis, meaning it encourages the skin to produce ceramides naturally. The function of ceramides is to hold the skin cells together by creating a barrier against water-loss from the inside-out, and external aggressors from the outside-in. They make up almost 50% of our skins composition, but they can be depleted by UV, free radicals & pollution, and their production also naturally slows with age. This leads to an impaired skin barrier, which results in dry, rough skin with more visible wrinkling and redness. Encouraging the skin’s natural production of ceramides leads to an improved skin barrier, resulting in smoother, more hydrated, younger-looking skin. Caprooyl phytosphingosine is in the class of essential lipids, it can be found on ingredient lists as caprooyl sphingosine, cholesterol, glycolipids, glycoproteins, glycosphingolipids, lecithin, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, phospholipids and phytosphingosine.

Octocrylene

Octocrylene

Octocrylene is a synthetic UV filter used in sun care products to provide protection against UVB rays with wavelengths between 290-320 nm. Other ingredients in the class of synthetic UV filters include bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyl triazone, homosalate, octinoxate, octisalate and triazine diethyl butamidotriazone.

Ethylhexyl Triazone

Ethylhexyl Triazone

Ethylhexyl Triazone is a synthetic UV filter offering protection against the full UVB wavelength spectrum 280-320 nm. Other ingredients in the class of synthetic UV filters include bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl salicylate,, homosalate, octinoxate, octisalate, octocrylene and triazine diethyl butamidotriazone.

Retinyl Palmitate

Retinyl Palmitate

Retinyl Palmitate is a part of the vitamin A family of ingredients. It is broken down in the body to retinol, and then into retinaldehyde, then again into retinoic acid, the active form recognised by the body to trigger its skin benefits. It is part of a family of ingredients also found on ingredients lists as encapsulated retinaldehyde, hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinaldehyde, retinol, retinyl propionate and retinyl retinoate (8x more powerful than retinol)

Dipeptide

Dipeptide is an anti-ageing peptide, which facilitates the skin’s healing process and makes the skin firmer. It is in a class of ingredients also found on ingredients lists as acetyl hexapeptide, acetyl tetrapeptide, acetylarginyltryptophyl diphenylglycine, arginine/lysine polypeptide, azelaoyl bis-dipeptide, copper heptapeptide-14 pantothenate, dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, ferric hexapeptide, heptapeptide-15, palmitate, myristol hexapeptide, myristol pentapeptide, myristoyl nonapeptide, myristoyl pentapeptide, oligopeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl decapeptide, palmitoyl heptapeptide, palmitoyl hexapeptide, palmitoyl nonapeptide, palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl pentapeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, pentapeptide, sh-oligopeptide, tetrapeptide and copper palmitoyl heptapeptide.

Yeast Amino Acids

Yeast Amino Acids

Yeast amino acids help to stimulate the skin’s cellular renewal, soothe skin, and increase oxygen flow to skin cells. It is also believed that yeast amino acids can stimulate collagen production. Amino acids are a class of ingredients. They can also be found on ingredients lists as acetyl glucosamine,acetyl tyrosinamide, alanine, arginine hcl, arginine pca, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, proline, serine and yeast amino acids.

Turmeric Root Extract

Turmeric Root Extract

Turmeric is known for its powerful anti-inflammatory properties, which help to soothe and calm skin irritation. It also has antioxidant properties to help protect against free radical damage.

Octisalate

Ethylhexyl Salicylate

Octisalate/Octyl Salicylate is a synthetic UV filter used in sun care products to provide protection against UVB wavelengths of 290-320 nm, with a peak absorbance at 306 nm. Other ingredients in the class of synthetic UV filters include bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyl triazone, homosalate, octinoxate, octocrylene and triazine diethyl butamidotriazone.

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide is a synthetic peptide composed of the amino acids glutamine, glycine, arginine, and proline. Along with the four amino acids, this peptide also contains the fatty acid palmitic acid to enhance stability and penetration into the skin.

L-Ascorbic Acid

L-Ascorbic Acid

Part of the Vitamin C family of ingredients, L-ascorbic acid is Vitamin C in its purest form, and the active form required by the body to result in the many skin skin benefits of Vitamin C. The issue with L-ascorbic acid is in the delivery, as it is very unstable in water, and needs a pH 4 or below for it to penetrate the skin. That being said, when it can be stabilised in a formula and is able to penetrate the skin, it provides the highest potency of any form of Vitamin C currently available. Vitamin C can also be found on ingredients lists as ascorbic acid, ascorbyl glucoside, ascorbyl palmitate, ethyl ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate and tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate.

Phospholipids

Phospholipids

Phospholipids are comprising of fatty acids, glycerol & phosphate. They are in the class of essential lipids, and can be found on ingredient lists as caprooyl phytosphingosine, caprooyl sphingosine, cholesterol, glycolipids, glycoproteins, glycosphingolipids, Lecithin, linolenic acid, linolenic acid and phytosphingosine.

Sodium PCA

Sodium PCA

Sodium PCA is in a class of ingredients that can be found on ingredients lists as natural moisturising factors, sodium lactate or trehalose.

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is a stable, oil-soluble form of Vitamin C. It is used in cosmetics, personal care products, and anti-aging products. Vitamin C can also be found on ingredients lists as ascorbic acid, ascorbyl glucoside, ascorbyl palmitate, ethyl ascorbic acid, l-ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, and sodium ascorbyl phosphate.