Ingredients in Skincare

Cholesterol

Cholesterol

Cholesterol is a fatty acid which occurs naturally in the skin’s lipid barrier. Applying cholesterol topically supports the skin barrier, reducing trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), and maintaining healthy skin functioning. Strengthening this lipid barrier also leads to improved skin hydration, which in turn leads to smoother, plumper, younger-looking skin. cholesterol is in the class of essential lipids, it can be found on ingredient lists as caprooyl phytosphingosine, caprooyl sphingosine, glycolipids, glycoproteins, glycosphingolipids, lecithin, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, phospholipids and phytosphingosine.

Tranexamic Acid

Tranexamic Acid

Tranexamic acid is a synthetic derivative of the amino acid lysine, which is used in skincare to treat hyperpigmentation & post-inflammatory acne scarring. Studies have shown this to be as effective as the gold standard prescription ingredient hydroquinone, without any of the associated irritation, based on a panel with medium-toned skin (50 women of Iranian descent). It is believed to work by suppressing some of the mechanisms in the skin, which lead to the production of excess melanin.

Red Algae

Red Algae

Algae is an incredibly interesting natural ingredient source. It is essentially an underwater plant, designed to get its food from sunlight, much like any other plants, although from much more challenging conditions. There are many types of algae (kelp, laminaria, microalgae), but in general in all its forms it acts as a powerful antioxidant, protecting from free radical damage, as well as being able to hydrate the skin and deliver naturally-occurring vitamins into the skin.

Zinc Gluconate

Zinc Gluconate

Zinc gluconate is known to have antibacterial effects, and is used in skincare as a preservative to protect the user from harmful bacteria exposure, as well as potential imparting some anti-blemish effects via its antibacterial activity. Zinc is a family of ingredients that can also be found on ingredients lists as zinc pca, zinc sulfate and zinc sulphate.

Zinc Sulfate

Zinc Sulfate

The jury is still out on the efficacy of this zinc derivative, but it is used in skincare for its antibacterial and astringent properties. This means it is able to fight blemish-causing C. Acnes bacteria, as well as minimise sebum production via its astringent effect. Zinc sulfate is part of a family of ingredients that can also be found on ingredients lists as zinc gluconate, zinc pca and zinc sulphate.

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Part of the Vitamin C family of ingredients, Ascorbyl Glucoside is a water-soluble derivative of Vitamin C. This derivative was created to provide improved stability and skin penetration vs. ascorbic acid alone. It is still unclear how well ascorbyl glucoside is converted into ascorbic acid (the active form of Vitamin C) within the body, but some of it will be lost during this conversion, making this less potent, and therefore requiring higher levels in the formulation in order to achieve great results. Vitamin C can also be found on ingredients lists as ascorbic acid, ascorbyl palmitate, ethyl ascorbic acid, l-ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate and tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate.

Caffeic Acid

Caffeic acid is a powerful naturally-occurring antioxidant found in most plants. It is able to protect the skin by neutralising damage-causing free radicals. Studies have also shown this ingredient to also have an anti-inflammatory effect within the skin, which can have a beneficial effect on acne, redness and preventing premature ageing.

Shea Butter

Shea Butter

Shea butter is high in fatty acids and vitamins, so works to support the natural lipid barrier of the skin, reducing water loss via the epidermis to keep skin soft, smooth and moisturised.

Arginine PCA

Arginine PCA

Arginine is an amino acid that can be found in food sources such as almonds and chocolate. Arginine is an essential amino acid that the body cannot produce on its own. It is often referred to as the ‘master amino acid’ and has a number of benefits to skin health. Amino acids are a class of ingredients. They can also be found on ingredients lists as acetyl glucosamine, acetyl tyrosinamide, alanine, arginine hcl, arginine pca, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, lysine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine and valine and yeast amino acids.

Quercetin

Quercetin

Quercetin is a naturally occurring bioflavonoid found in fruits and vegetables such as kale, onion, tomatoes and berries. It is used in skincare for its antioxidant abilities, meaning it can neutralise free radicals before they cause any damage to the skin. Studies also show Quercetin to have anti-inflammatory effects, and an ability to protect the skin against aggressors such as UV, histamine and toxic chemicals. It is also believed to support the skin barrier functioning, reducing water-loss via the skin to improve hydration levels in the epidermis.

L-Carnitine

Carnitine is a naturally occurring amino acid derivative found in the body. In skincare, L-Carnitine is used for its potential skin-soothing, antioxidant, and revitalizing properties.

Citric Acid

Citric Acid

Citric acid (in dilution) is often used in tiny quantities to adjust the pH of a formula to be more acidic. In higher doses, it acts as an Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA), encouraging the skin’s natural exfoliation process to brighten, smooth and refine overall skin texture.

Coconut Oil

Cocos Nucifera Oil

Coconut oil, also known as cocos nucifera (coconut) oil, is naturally rich in fat-soluble Vitamins A & E, which provide antioxidant benefits, as well as supporting the skin barrier by reducing TEWL and therefore retaining moisture levels within the epidermis.

Ectoin

Ectoin

Ectoin is an emollient used in skincare to help maintain moisture balance in the skin. New research shows it may also be able to protect against certain environmental aggressors, such as pollutants and UV. This is believed to be down to its antioxidant properties, as well as the ability to protect skin from dehydration from the surrounding environment.

Urea

Urea is humectant ingredient found in the skin’s natural moisturising factor (NMF), making up around 7-8% of the total composition. Its humectant properties mean it can bind to water molecules in the atmosphere, drawing them to it, and in turn plumping and hydrating the skin. Research also shows that Urea has a mild exfoliating action on the skin, encouraging the removal of dead cells which results in smoother, healthier, more hydrated skin.