Ingredients in Skincare

Tranexamic Acid

Tranexamic Acid

Tranexamic acid is a synthetic derivative of the amino acid lysine, which is used in skincare to treat hyperpigmentation & post-inflammatory acne scarring. Studies have shown this to be as effective as the gold standard prescription ingredient hydroquinone, without any of the associated irritation, based on a panel with medium-toned skin (50 women of Iranian descent). It is believed to work by suppressing some of the mechanisms in the skin, which lead to the production of excess melanin.

Essential Lipids

The outer layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, has a multilamellar structure (essentially a fine membrane), made up of lipids (fats), to form a non-permeable barrier. This keeps water inside the skin, and acts as the first defense against external aggressors. Using lipids in skincare helps to support the natural skin barrier, preventing water-loss to keep skin hydrated and balanced. Essential lipids are a class of ingredients also known as caprooyl phytosphingosine, caprooyl sphingosine, cholesterol, glycolipids, glycoproteins, glycosphingolipids, lecithin, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, phospholipids and phytosphingosine.

Bio-Active Glucosides

Bio-Active Glucosides

Derived from plants, with the ability to soothe the skin by sending signals to the relevant cells to regulate any inflammatory response. They also work to even out skin tone and blotchiness.

Bakuchiol

Psoralea Corylifolia Seed Oil

Bakuchiol has been dubbed as ‘nature’s retinol’ due to its ability to achieve some of the same skin benefits (without the side effects). Studies have shown this plant active, when used twice daily, to result in visible improvements in wrinkle depth, skin smoothness, elasticity & uneven skin tone.

Citric Acid

Citric Acid

Citric acid (in dilution) is often used in tiny quantities to adjust the pH of a formula to be more acidic. In higher doses, it acts as an Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA), encouraging the skin’s natural exfoliation process to brighten, smooth and refine overall skin texture.

Ascorbic Acid

Ascorbic Acid

Part of the Vitamin C family of ingredients, L-ascorbic acid is Vitamin C in its purest form, and the active form required by the body to result in the many skin skin benefits of Vitamin C. The issue with L-ascorbic acid is in the delivery, as it is very unstable in water, and needs a pH 4 or below for it to penetrate the skin. That being said, when it can be stabilised in a formula and is able to penetrate the skin, it provides the highest potency of any form of Vitamin C currently available. Vitamin C can also be found on ingredients lists as ascorbyl glucoside, ascorbyl palmitate, ethyl ascorbic acid, l-ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate and tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate.

Mushroom Extract

Mushroom extracts are derived from various types of mushrooms, such as shiitake, reishi, and chaga. In skincare, they are used for their potential anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and skin-soothing properties. Studies have shown that compounds from specific mushroom types can inhibit tyrosinase activity (an enzyme involved in melanin synthesis), which in turn visibly minimises areas of hyperpigmentation. Mushroom extract is a class of ingredients also known by fomes officinalis (mushroom) extract, fomes officinalis (mushroom) extract and polyporus umbellatus (mushroom) extract.

Blue Mallow Extract

Mallow Extract

Blue mallow extract, also known as Malva sylvestris extract or common mallow extract, is derived from the flowers and leaves of the blue mallow plant. It is used in skincare for its soothing, hydrating, and anti-inflammatory properties.

Tartaric Acid

Tartaric Acid

Tartaric acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) which works to exfoliate the top layer of the skin. This helps to remove dead skin cells which might be blocking the pores, which in turn reduces the instances of blemishes and breakouts.

Sugar Cane Extract

Saccharum Officinarum (Sugar Cane) Extract

Sugar Cane extract is a natural ingredient that works as a humectant when applied to the skin, meaning it draws water molecules towards it, plumping & hydrating the area. It is also the natural plant from which glycolic acid is derived, so it is thought to have some degree of exfoliating & brightening action, although there is currently insufficient research proving this.

Arginine PCA

Arginine PCA

Arginine is an amino acid that can be found in food sources such as almonds and chocolate. Arginine is an essential amino acid that the body cannot produce on its own. It is often referred to as the ‘master amino acid’ and has a number of benefits to skin health. Amino acids are a class of ingredients. They can also be found on ingredients lists as acetyl glucosamine, acetyl tyrosinamide, alanine, arginine hcl, arginine pca, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, lysine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine and valine and yeast amino acids.

Blueberry Extract

Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract

Blueberry extract is used in skincare for its powerful antioxidant and skin conditioning properties. It is also a rich source of Vitamin C, and studies have shown them to protect against UV damage in the skin on exposure to the sun (alongside a broad spectrum SPF of course).

Phytic Acid

Phytic Acid

Phytic acid is technically an alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), although its exfoliating effects are very mild compared to other acids in the AHA family. It does work to remove dead skin cell build up from the pores, and in turn reducing occurrences of breakouts, but this is not its main skin benefit. It is predominantly used for its high antioxidant potential, meaning it can neutralise damaging free radicals before they can cause any damage to the skin.

Kojic Acid

Kojic acid is produced naturally in a number of plant species, such as mushrooms, and is also a by-product of the fermentation process of soy and rice wine. It is used in cosmetics for its ability to target hyperpigmentation, and works by inhibiting the enzyme tyrosinase, which is involved in producing the pigment in our skin, known as melanin. A reduction in the activity of this enzyme helps to minimise the overproduction of melanin, and help reduce areas of hyperpigmentation.

Jojoba Beads

Jojoba beads are spherical exfoliating particles made from jojoba oil, a natural liquid wax obtained from the seeds of the jojoba plant (Simmondsia chinensis). These beads are used in skincare for their gentle exfoliating and skin-smoothing properties.