Ingredients in Skincare

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Part of the Vitamin C family of ingredients, Ascorbyl Glucoside is a water-soluble derivative of Vitamin C. This derivative was created to provide improved stability and skin penetration vs. ascorbic acid alone. It is still unclear how well ascorbyl glucoside is converted into ascorbic acid (the active form of Vitamin C) within the body, but some of it will be lost during this conversion, making this less potent, and therefore requiring higher levels in the formulation in order to achieve great results. Vitamin C can also be found on ingredients lists as ascorbic acid, ascorbyl palmitate, ethyl ascorbic acid, l-ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate and tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate.

Naringenin Chalcone

Naringenin chalcone is a flavonoid compound derived from citrus fruits, particularly grapefruits. In skincare, it is used for its potential antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin-brightening properties.

Arginine

Arginine

Arginine is an amino acid that can be found in food sources such as almonds and chocolate. Arginine is an essential amino acid that the body cannot produce on its own. It is often referred to as the ‘master amino acid’ and has a number of benefits to skin health. Amino acids are a class of ingredients. They can also be found on ingredients lists as acetyl glucosamine, acetyl tyrosinamide, alanine, arginine hcl, arginine pca, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, lysine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine and valine and yeast amino acids.

Blueberry Extract

Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract

Blueberry extract is used in skincare for its powerful antioxidant and skin conditioning properties. It is also a rich source of Vitamin C, and studies have shown them to protect against UV damage in the skin on exposure to the sun (alongside a broad spectrum SPF of course).

Rosemary Leaf Extract

Rosemary Leaf Extract

Rosemary Leaf Extract is derived from the leaves of the rosemary plant (Rosmarinus officinalis). In skincare, it is used for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and soothing properties.

Argan Oil

Argania Spinosa (Argan) Kernel Oil

Argan oil is derived from the nut of the Argan tree which grows in Morocco, it is naturally high in Vitamin E and fatty acids, which work to nourish the skin, protect the natural lipid barrier and provide antioxidant protection against free radicals.

Arginine PCA

Arginine PCA

Arginine is an amino acid that can be found in food sources such as almonds and chocolate. Arginine is an essential amino acid that the body cannot produce on its own. It is often referred to as the ‘master amino acid’ and has a number of benefits to skin health. Amino acids are a class of ingredients. They can also be found on ingredients lists as acetyl glucosamine, acetyl tyrosinamide, alanine, arginine hcl, arginine pca, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, lysine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine and valine and yeast amino acids.

Rhamnose

Rhamnose

Rhamnose is a naturally occurring sugar found in plant sources such as buckthorn and birch. Studies have shown that its molecular size and structure allows it to penetrate to the area between the base of the epidermis and the top of the dermis, known as the ‘dermo-epidermal junction’. This is important as this is where the fibroblasts are situated, which produce the key skin proteins collagen and elastin, which contribute to overall skin structure & firmness. In vivo studies (on humans) from the manufacturers have shown that applying a product including rhamnose once daily for 8 weeks resulting in an increase in collagen production, and a decrease in overall wrinkle depth. Prebiotics are in a class of ingredients that can be found on ingredients lists as alpha-glucan oligosaccharide, fructooligosaccharides, lactobacillus extract filtrate and saccharomyces cerevisiae (yeast) extract.

Tranexamic Acid

Tranexamic Acid

Tranexamic acid is a synthetic derivative of the amino acid lysine, which is used in skincare to treat hyperpigmentation & post-inflammatory acne scarring. Studies have shown this to be as effective as the gold standard prescription ingredient hydroquinone, without any of the associated irritation, based on a panel with medium-toned skin (50 women of Iranian descent). It is believed to work by suppressing some of the mechanisms in the skin, which lead to the production of excess melanin.

Resveratrol

Vitis Vinifera

Resveratrol is a family of ingredients also known as vitis vinifera (organic, cold pressed concord grape) seed oil, vitis vinifera (grape) flower cell extract, vitis vinifera (grape) fruit extract, vitis vinifera (grape) seed extract, vitis vinifera seed extract or vitis vinifera (organic). Most famously found in the skin of red grapes, but also occurring naturally in peanuts and certain fruits such as blueberries and cranberries. It is included in skincare for its powerful antioxidant abilities. Research shows it can protect against free radicals, as well as oxidative damage caused by UV.

Jojoba Beads

Jojoba beads are spherical exfoliating particles made from jojoba oil, a natural liquid wax obtained from the seeds of the jojoba plant (Simmondsia chinensis). These beads are used in skincare for their gentle exfoliating and skin-smoothing properties.

Blue Mallow Extract

Mallow Extract

Blue mallow extract, also known as Malva sylvestris extract or common mallow extract, is derived from the flowers and leaves of the blue mallow plant. It is used in skincare for its soothing, hydrating, and anti-inflammatory properties.

Zinc PCA

Zinc PCA

Zinc PCA is a component of the skin’s natural moisturising factor (NMF), which acts as a humectant to draw water to it, and when synthesized with zinc, it can actually improve the efficacy of zinc, by making it more bioavailable and easily-absorbed. Studies have also shown that zinc PCA can inhibit the activity of destructive enzymes within the skin, therefore providing a protective, anti-ageing mechanism to the skin. Zinc is a family of ingredients that can also be found on ingredients lists as zinc gluconate, zinc sulfate and zinc sulphate.

Evening Primrose Oil

Evening Primrose Oil

Evening primrose oil is derived from the seeds of the Oenothera biennis plant. It is naturally rich in omega-6, which provides anti-inflammatory benefits, as well as supports the skin's natural lipid barrier. Evening primrose oil also acts as an antioxidant to offer protection against free radical damage.

Caffeine

Caffeine, derived from the coffee plant, is used in skincare as an antioxidant and a vasoconstricting agent. Its antioxidant properties help to protect against free radicals, neutralising them before they can cause damage to the skin cells. Its vasoconstricting abilities make it good for draining water retention from around the eye area, to reduce puff, and for reducing skin redness by constricting the capillaries whose dilation visually increases skin redness by passing blood closer to the skin’s surface.