Ingredients in Skincare

Retinaldehyde

Retinaldehyde

Retinaldehyde (RetinAl) is a part of the vitamin A family of ingredients and is the most potent cosmetic retinoid. As with most retinoids, retinal must be converted to retinoic acid, the active form of vitamin A, in order to work. However, compared to retinol which undergoes 2 conversion steps to retinoic acid, retinal undergoes only one conversion, making it more potent/effective than retinol. Retinaldehyde is also unique in comparison to other retinoids in that it has antibacterial properties, alongside all other properties of retinoids. This means that you get the smoother, firmer, and more even skin tone that retinoids provide with the additional bonus of antibacterial properties for people with acne. It is part of a family of ingredients also found on ingredients lists as encapsulated retinaldehyde, hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinol, retinyl palmitate, retinyl propionate and retinyl retinoate (8x more powerful than retinol).

Retinyl Retinoate

Retinyl Retinoate (8X More Powerful Than Retinol)

Retinyl retinoate is a part of the vitamin A family of ingredients, which combines retinol with retinoic acid. Research shows that this makes it more stable in the delivery (a common problem with either active alone), as well as more potent and less irritating. It is broken down by the body in two stages - first into retinol and retinoic acid, then the retinol is broken down again into retinoic acid, so essentially packing double the punch. Studies carried out comparing this to pure retinol showed significantly more effective and faster results, with comparable side effects. It is part of a family of ingredients also found on ingredients lists as encapsulated retinaldehyde, hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinaldehyde, retinyl palmitate and retinyl propionate.

Phytosphingosine

Phytosphingosine

Phytosphingosine (PS) is a lipid which naturally occurs in the stratum corneum (the top, visible layer of our epidermis). This acts as a precursor for ceramide synthesis, meaning it encourages the skin to produce ceramides naturally. Studies have also shown PS to offer anti-acne benefits, it is believed by reinforcing the protective barrier, and therefore reducing specific abnormalities in the skin functioning that lead to acne (invading inflammatory bacteria, increased keratinization, increased sebaceous gland activity). It is in the same class of essential lipids that include caprooyl phytosphingosine, caprooyl sphingosine, cholesterol, glycolipids, glycoproteins, glycosphingolipids, lecithin, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and phospholipids.

Lactobionic Acid

Lactobionic acid is a non-irritating poly hydroxy acid (PHA) derived from natural sugars. PHAs provide a gentle exfoliation of the skin, encouraging dead cells to be shed from the surface, and new cells to be produced in the basal layer of the epidermis. This process leads to smoother, less congested & more radiant skin, whilst reducing discolouration & fine lines to provide visible anti-ageing results. Lactobionic acid is also an antioxidant, protecting skin from harmful effects of free radicals within the body, as well as inhibiting specific enzymes which lead to degradation of our skin proteins, so this mechanism keeps skin more youthful. Lactobionic acid also has humectant qualities, meaning it is able to draw water molecules to it, plumping & hydrating the area which it is applied. It was patented in 2000 by Neostrata, as one of their ‘Bionic acids’. Lactobionic acid is in a class of polyhydroxy acid ingredients also known by gluconolactone and maltobionic acid.

Fernblock

Fernblock

Known as FernBlock, this is a patented active from Heliocare, developed alongside Harvard medical school. It is derived from a tropical fern native to South America, and works by protecting against UVB-induced sunburn, as well as protecting against UVA and Infrared wavelengths. The active is also able to support cell renewal and protect from cumulative damage caused by sun exposure (such as ageing and DNA damage). It is an antioxidant, protecting against free radicals, and has been shown to boost production of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid in the skin.

Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate

Many peptides function as anti-ageing ingredients in skincare, due to their ability to fit specific receptors in the body to trigger anti-ageing responses. This includes mechanisms like collagen production, cell regeneration or even blocking muscle contractions to smooth expression lines. Peptides are made up of amino acids, and are unique in shape, with a huge variety available to target specific responses in the body. Heptapeptide-15 palmitate is in a class of ingredients also found on ingredients lists as acetyl hexapeptide, acetyl tetrapeptide, acetylarginyltryptophyl diphenylglycine, arginine/lysine polypeptide, azelaoyl bis-dipeptide, copper heptapeptide-14 pantothenate, dipeptide, dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, ferric hexapeptide, heptapeptide-15, palmitate, myristol hexapeptide, myristol pentapeptide, myristoyl nonapeptide, myristoyl pentapeptide, oligopeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl decapeptide, palmitoyl heptapeptide, palmitoyl hexapeptide, palmitoyl nonapeptide, palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl pentapeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, pentapeptide, sh-oligopeptide, tetrapeptide and copper palmitoyl heptapeptide.

Lactobacillus Ferment

Lactobacillus Ferment

Lactobacillus ferment is a probiotic, with a number of skin benefits. It was first shown by Estee Lauder to protect against environmental aggressors by supporting DNA repair within the cell. It was later shown to have powerful anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial effects, with research indicating it being particularly beneficial for those with acne or rosacea. The manufacturer of the ingredient, Barnet, has confirmed the mechanism of this is by suppressing the growth of harmful bacteria associated with these conditions, and encouraging the diversity of growth of beneficial skin microbiota. Lactobacillus ferment sits in a class of probiotic ingredients which can be found on ingredients lists as bifida ferment lysate and lactococcus ferment lysate.

Proline

Proline

A non-essential amino acid (meaning that our body can produce it) that's also one of the major building blocks of collagen. It is thought to be able to improve wrinkles when combined with other amino acids, glycine and leucine. Amino acids are a class of ingredients. They can also be found on ingredients lists as acetyl glucosamine,acetyl tyrosinamide, alanine, arginine hcl, arginine pca, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, phenylalanine, serine, taurine, threonine and valine and yeast amino acids.

Valine

Valine

It's a branched chain amino acid that is claimed to enhance energy, increase endurance and aid in muscle tissue recovery and repair when taken as a supplement. In skincare, Valine helps to keep the skin hydrated and to protect against external aggressors. Amino acids are a class of ingredients. They can also be found on ingredients lists as acetyl glucosamine,acetyl tyrosinamide, alanine, arginine hcl, arginine pca, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, proline, serine and valine and yeast amino acids.

Retinol

Retinol

Retinol, is a part of the vitamin A family of ingredients and is one of the most well-researched actives used in skincare today. Retinol and all of its derivatives are broken down within the skin first into retinaldehyde, then into retinoic acid, the active form recognised by the body to trigger its skin benefits. Retinoic acid (aka tretinoin) is the gold standard of anti-ageing and works in a number of ways. Firstly, it blocks the production of collagen-degrading enzymes, meaning collagen does not get broken down as quickly in the skin. After prolonged use (6M+), it has also been shown to stimulate the production of type I and type III collagen, reducing wrinkles and improving skin firmness. It has been shown to protect against UV-induced damage, as well as reducing the appearance of hyperpigmentation in the skin. Skin treated with retinoids is smoother, more even-toned, firmer and younger looking. It is part of a family of ingredients also found on ingredients lists as encapsulated retinaldehyde, hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinaldehyde, retinyl palmitate, retinyl propionate and retinyl retinoate (8x more powerful than retinol)

Triazine Diethyl Butamidotriazone

Triazine Diethyl Butamidotriazone

Triazine diethyl butamidotriazone is a synthetic UV filter used in sun care products to provide protection against UVB rays. Other ingredients in the class of synthetic UV filters include bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyl triazone, homosalate, octinoxate, octisalate and octocrylene.

Laminaria Ochroleuca (Kelp) Extract

Laminaria Ochroleuca (Kelp) Extract

A type of kelp that helps soothe skin and offers hydration-enhancing properties, it can also play a role in reinforcing skin’s barrier and warding off environmental stressors. Researchers note that this ingredient is particularly useful for those prone to sensitive skin. It is in the class of Algae Extract which also include ahnfeltia concinna extract, alaria esculenta extract, algae exopolysaccharides, algin, alteromonas ferment extract, alteromonas ferment extract, ascophyllum nodosum extract, asparagopsis armata extract, chlorella protothecoides, chlorella vulgaris extract, dunaliella salina (green algae) extract, hydrolyzed f-fucoidan, macrocystis pyrifera (kelp) extract, and marine extract.

Glycolipids

Glycolipids

Glycolipids are made up of a sugar monomer (monosaccharide) and a lipid. This is the umbrella term encompassing ceramides, sphingoids & sterols. Glycolipids is in the class of essential lipids, it can be found on ingredient lists as caprooyl phytosphingosine, caprooyl sphingosine, cholesterol, glycoproteins, glycosphingolipids, lecithin, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, phospholipids and phytosphingosine.

Glycoproteins

Glycoproteins is in the class of essential lipids, they can be found on ingredient lists as caprooyl phytosphingosine, caprooyl sphingosine, cholesterol, glycolipids, glycosphingolipids, lecithin, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, phospholipids and phytosphingosine.

Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Part of the Vitamin C family of ingredients, L-ascorbic acid is designed to improve its stability and skin penetration abilities, to achieve optimum skin benefits. Once absorbed into the skin, the ethyl group is removed, and l-ascorbic acid is returned to its active form, where it can best support the skin to achieve visible brightening & anti-ageing results. Vitamin C can also be found on ingredients lists as ascorbic acid, ascorbyl glucoside, ascorbyl palmitate, l-ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate and tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate.