Ingredients in Skincare

Citric Acid

Citric Acid

Citric acid (in dilution) is often used in tiny quantities to adjust the pH of a formula to be more acidic. In higher doses, it acts as an Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA), encouraging the skin’s natural exfoliation process to brighten, smooth and refine overall skin texture.

Quercetin

Quercetin

Quercetin is a naturally occurring bioflavonoid found in fruits and vegetables such as kale, onion, tomatoes and berries. It is used in skincare for its antioxidant abilities, meaning it can neutralise free radicals before they cause any damage to the skin. Studies also show Quercetin to have anti-inflammatory effects, and an ability to protect the skin against aggressors such as UV, histamine and toxic chemicals. It is also believed to support the skin barrier functioning, reducing water-loss via the skin to improve hydration levels in the epidermis.

Zinc PCA

Zinc PCA

Zinc PCA is a component of the skin’s natural moisturising factor (NMF), which acts as a humectant to draw water to it, and when synthesized with zinc, it can actually improve the efficacy of zinc, by making it more bioavailable and easily-absorbed. Studies have also shown that zinc PCA can inhibit the activity of destructive enzymes within the skin, therefore providing a protective, anti-ageing mechanism to the skin. Zinc is a family of ingredients that can also be found on ingredients lists as zinc gluconate, zinc sulfate and zinc sulphate.

Rosemary Leaf Extract

Rosemary Leaf Extract

Rosemary Leaf Extract is derived from the leaves of the rosemary plant (Rosmarinus officinalis). In skincare, it is used for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and soothing properties.

Naringenin Chalcone

Naringenin chalcone is a flavonoid compound derived from citrus fruits, particularly grapefruits. In skincare, it is used for its potential antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin-brightening properties.

Zinc Sulfate

Zinc Sulfate

The jury is still out on the efficacy of this zinc derivative, but it is used in skincare for its antibacterial and astringent properties. This means it is able to fight blemish-causing C. Acnes bacteria, as well as minimise sebum production via its astringent effect. Zinc sulfate is part of a family of ingredients that can also be found on ingredients lists as zinc gluconate, zinc pca and zinc sulphate.

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Part of the Vitamin C family of ingredients, Ascorbyl Glucoside is a water-soluble derivative of Vitamin C. This derivative was created to provide improved stability and skin penetration vs. ascorbic acid alone. It is still unclear how well ascorbyl glucoside is converted into ascorbic acid (the active form of Vitamin C) within the body, but some of it will be lost during this conversion, making this less potent, and therefore requiring higher levels in the formulation in order to achieve great results. Vitamin C can also be found on ingredients lists as ascorbic acid, ascorbyl palmitate, ethyl ascorbic acid, l-ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate and tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate.

Sage Extract

Sage Extract

Sage is a plant extract, naturally high in antioxidants which offer the skin protection from free radical damage. Sage has additional anti-inflammatory benefits which helps to soothe skin which is prone to redness.

Arginine PCA

Arginine PCA

Arginine is an amino acid that can be found in food sources such as almonds and chocolate. Arginine is an essential amino acid that the body cannot produce on its own. It is often referred to as the ‘master amino acid’ and has a number of benefits to skin health. Amino acids are a class of ingredients. They can also be found on ingredients lists as acetyl glucosamine, acetyl tyrosinamide, alanine, arginine hcl, arginine pca, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, lysine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine and valine and yeast amino acids.

Shea Butter

Shea Butter

Shea butter is high in fatty acids and vitamins, so works to support the natural lipid barrier of the skin, reducing water loss via the epidermis to keep skin soft, smooth and moisturised.

Blueberry Extract

Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract

Blueberry extract is used in skincare for its powerful antioxidant and skin conditioning properties. It is also a rich source of Vitamin C, and studies have shown them to protect against UV damage in the skin on exposure to the sun (alongside a broad spectrum SPF of course).

Evening Primrose Oil

Evening Primrose Oil

Evening primrose oil is derived from the seeds of the Oenothera biennis plant. It is naturally rich in omega-6, which provides anti-inflammatory benefits, as well as supports the skin's natural lipid barrier. Evening primrose oil also acts as an antioxidant to offer protection against free radical damage.

Coconut Oil

Cocos Nucifera Oil

Coconut oil, also known as cocos nucifera (coconut) oil, is naturally rich in fat-soluble Vitamins A & E, which provide antioxidant benefits, as well as supporting the skin barrier by reducing TEWL and therefore retaining moisture levels within the epidermis.

Rhamnose

Rhamnose

Rhamnose is a naturally occurring sugar found in plant sources such as buckthorn and birch. Studies have shown that its molecular size and structure allows it to penetrate to the area between the base of the epidermis and the top of the dermis, known as the ‘dermo-epidermal junction’. This is important as this is where the fibroblasts are situated, which produce the key skin proteins collagen and elastin, which contribute to overall skin structure & firmness. In vivo studies (on humans) from the manufacturers have shown that applying a product including rhamnose once daily for 8 weeks resulting in an increase in collagen production, and a decrease in overall wrinkle depth. Prebiotics are in a class of ingredients that can be found on ingredients lists as alpha-glucan oligosaccharide, fructooligosaccharides, lactobacillus extract filtrate and saccharomyces cerevisiae (yeast) extract.

Tartaric Acid

Tartaric Acid

Tartaric acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) which works to exfoliate the top layer of the skin. This helps to remove dead skin cells which might be blocking the pores, which in turn reduces the instances of blemishes and breakouts.