Ingredients in Skincare

Palmitoyl Glycine

Palmitoyl Glycine

A key amino acid in the formation of collagen, this ingredient works to increase microcirculation, improving oxygen flow to the skin, as well as reducing inflammation to result in firmer skin and reduced wrinkle visibility.

Acetyl Tetrapeptide

Acetyl Tetrapeptide

Acetyl tetrapeptide is a string of peptides used in skincare products to reduce the appearance of wrinkles brought on by repeated facial expressions. It is in a class of ingredients also found on ingredients lists as acetylarginyltryptophyl diphenylglycine, acetyl tetrapeptide, arginine/lysine polypeptide, azelaoyl bis-dipeptide, copper heptapeptide-14 pantothenate, dipeptide, dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, ferric hexapeptide, heptapeptide-15, palmitate, myristol hexapeptide, myristol pentapeptide, myristoyl nonapeptide, myristoyl pentapeptide, oligopeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl decapeptide, palmitoyl heptapeptide, palmitoyl hexapeptide, palmitoyl nonapeptide, palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl pentapeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, pentapeptide, sh-oligopeptide, tetrapeptide and copper palmitoyl heptapeptide.

Chemical UV Filters

Chemical UV filters are a family of ingredients also known as bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyl triazone, homosalate, octinoxate, octisalate, octocrylene and triazine diethyl butamidotriazone. They work by absorbing UVB light in the outer layers of the epidermis, then converting it into heat (to neutralise the energy which otherwise can lead to cell damage), and scattering it away from the body.

Polyhydroxy Acids

Polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) work by gently dissolving the keratin that binds our outermost layer of skin cells, encouraging the natural exfoliation process of the skin, leading to smoother, clearer skin. This process also encourages new skin cell generation in the basal layer of the epidermis and with repeated use this can have an overall anti-ageing effect on the skin. PHAs are much larger in molecular weight vs AHAs so they cannot penetrate the skin as fast or as far, which therefore makes more gentle & suitable for more sensitive skin types, including those with rosacea-prone skin. Gluconolactone is also especially good for drier skin types as it also has natural humectant qualities, meaning it draws water towards it, hydrating the skin from within. Polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) are a class of ingredients also known by gluconolactone, lactobionic acid, lactobionic acid (pha) and maltobionic acid.

Algae Exopolysaccharides

Algae Exopolysaccharides

Exopolysaccharides (EPS) are phytochemicals produced by Algae to protect from external stressors: UV radiation, oxidation (from free radicals) and temperature, so these provide skin-protecting benefits in skincare. Being a polysaccharide, this also offers humectant qualities, meaning it can draw water to it, plumping & hydrating the area it is applied to. It is in the class of Algae Extract which also include ahnfeltia concinna extract, alaria esculenta extract, algae extract, algin, alteromonas ferment extract, ascophyllum nodosum extract, asparagopsis armata extract, chlorella protothecoides, chlorella vulgaris extract, dunaliella salina (green algae) extract, hydrolyzed f-fucoidan, laminaria ochroleuca (kelp) extract, macrocystis pyrifera (kelp) extract, and marine extract.

Alanine

Alanine

Amino acids like Alanine are the small building blocks that make up peptides, and proteins. Alanine is part of a class of Amino Acids. They can also be found on ingredients lists as acetyl glucosamine, acetyl tyrosinamide, arginine, arginine hcl, arginine pca, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, lysine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine and valine and yeast amino acids.

Apple Extract

Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract

Apple extract, also known as pyrus malus extract, is used in cosmetics for its antioxidant abilities, as it is very high in polyphenols. This means it is able to help protect the skin from free radical damage, one of the largest external factors which contributes to ageing of the skin (after UV light).

Vitamin E

Vitamin E is a fat-soluble Vitamin contained in many plant oils, or can also be produced synthetically. Vitamin E is found naturally in our own skin, and its main benefit is to offer powerful antioxidant protection against pollution and free radical damage. It also helps to support our skin’s natural lipid barrier, which in turn improves the hydration levels within the epidermis, as water loss through the skin is minimised. Vitamin E is a family of ingredients also known as alpha tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopheryl (vitamin e) acetate, tocopheryl glucoside or tocopheryl linoleate/oleate.

Wild Cherry Extract

Prunus Serotina

Wild cherry is a natural fruit extract, rich in plant antioxidants and vitamin c which help to protect the skin from free radical damage. It may also offer skin calming benefits.

Aquagenium

Aquagenium

A Bioderma exclusive ingredient, which is a blend of niacinamide and apple extract, which works to stimulate the expression of aquaporins (proteins which are responsible for water transfer between cells). Aquagenium works to stimulate the movement of water in order to deliver deep hydration to the skin.

Zinc

Zinc

It is known to regulate sebum production, as well as inhibit the growth of the C. Acnes bacteria to improve acne symptoms. Zinc is a family of ingredients also known as zinc gluconate, zinc pca, zinc sulfate and zinc sulphate.

Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide

Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide

Alpha-glucan oligosaccharide is in a class of prebiotic ingredients also found on ingredients lists as Fructooligosaccharides, lactobacillus extract filtrate, rhamnose and saccharomyces cerevisiae (yeast) extract. Prebiotics are a class of ingredients which can be found on ingredients lists as fructooligosaccharides, lactobacillus extract filtrate, rhamnose and saccharomyces cerevisiae (yeast) extract.

Arbutin

Arbutin

Arbutin, also known as alpha arbutin, can be derived from the bearberry plant, or made synthetically, and is used in skincare to lighten dark spots. It works by breaking down in the body into hydroquinone, which can inhibit tyrosinase, an enzyme responsible for producing melanin. It is one of the most well-researched actives for lightening pigmentation, with better skin tolerability vs. prescription hydroquinone.

Essential Lipids

The outer layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, has a multilamellar structure (essentially a fine membrane), made up of lipids (fats), to form a non-permeable barrier. This keeps water inside the skin, and acts as the first defense against external aggressors. Using lipids in skincare helps to support the natural skin barrier, preventing water-loss to keep skin hydrated and balanced. Essential lipids are a class of ingredients also known as caprooyl phytosphingosine, caprooyl sphingosine, cholesterol, glycolipids, glycoproteins, glycosphingolipids, lecithin, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, phospholipids and phytosphingosine.

Lactic Acid

Lactic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), which occurs naturally in the body, as well as being found in dairy products, but is typically derived synthetically for cosmetics today. AHAs work by dissolving the keratin binding the outermost layer of skin cells, speeding up the skin’s natural exfoliation process. This leads to smoother, brighter, clearer skin, whilst reducing skin discolouration & fine lines/wrinkles with continued use. it is a family of ingredients also seen on ingredients lists as potassium lactate.