Ingredients in Skincare

Kola Seed Extract

Kola seed extract is derived from the seeds of the kola nut tree, and is used in skincare for its potential skin-toning, and antioxidant properties.

Lactic Acid

Lactic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), which occurs naturally in the body, as well as being found in dairy products, but is typically derived synthetically for cosmetics today. AHAs work by dissolving the keratin binding the outermost layer of skin cells, speeding up the skin’s natural exfoliation process. This leads to smoother, brighter, clearer skin, whilst reducing skin discolouration & fine lines/wrinkles with continued use. it is a family of ingredients also seen on ingredients lists as potassium lactate.

Lactobacillus Extract Filtrate

Lactobacillus Extract Filtrate

Lactobacillus Extract Filtrate is a cell-free extract (CFE) of the lactobacillus microorganism. This means it is no longer a living bacteria (probiotic), but an extract of a once-living bacteria, which functions as a prebiotic. This active has been shown via clinical studies from the manufacturer, Evonik, to encourage the growth of beneficial skin bacteria, as well as support the natural skin barrier function, helping to protect against skin roughness and dryness. Lactobacillus extract filtrate is in a class of prebiotic ingredients and can be found on ingredients lists as alpha-glucan oligosaccharide, fructooligosaccharides, rhamnose and saccharomyces cerevisiae (yeast) extract.

Lactobacillus Ferment

Lactobacillus Ferment

Lactobacillus ferment is a probiotic, with a number of skin benefits. It was first shown by Estee Lauder to protect against environmental aggressors by supporting DNA repair within the cell. It was later shown to have powerful anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial effects, with research indicating it being particularly beneficial for those with acne or rosacea. The manufacturer of the ingredient, Barnet, has confirmed the mechanism of this is by suppressing the growth of harmful bacteria associated with these conditions, and encouraging the diversity of growth of beneficial skin microbiota. Lactobacillus ferment sits in a class of probiotic ingredients which can be found on ingredients lists as bifida ferment lysate and lactococcus ferment lysate.

Lactobionic Acid

Lactobionic acid is a non-irritating poly hydroxy acid (PHA) derived from natural sugars. PHAs provide a gentle exfoliation of the skin, encouraging dead cells to be shed from the surface, and new cells to be produced in the basal layer of the epidermis. This process leads to smoother, less congested & more radiant skin, whilst reducing discolouration & fine lines to provide visible anti-ageing results. Lactobionic acid is also an antioxidant, protecting skin from harmful effects of free radicals within the body, as well as inhibiting specific enzymes which lead to degradation of our skin proteins, so this mechanism keeps skin more youthful. Lactobionic acid also has humectant qualities, meaning it is able to draw water molecules to it, plumping & hydrating the area which it is applied. It was patented in 2000 by Neostrata, as one of their ‘Bionic acids’. Lactobionic acid is in a class of polyhydroxy acid ingredients also known by gluconolactone and maltobionic acid.

Lactococcus Ferment Lysate

Lactococcus Ferment Lysate

Lactococcus Ferment Lysate is a post-biotic ingredient derived from Gram-positive bacteria, Lactococcus lactis. It is used in skincare for its ability to increase the speed of epidermal growth, leading to a thicker stratum corneum (outermost layer of the skin), and in turn better barrier function. This is seen as healthier-looking, more hydrated and supple skin. Lactococcus ferment lysate sits in a class of probiotic ingredients which can be found on ingredients lists as bifida ferment lysate and lactobacillus ferment.

Laminaria Ochroleuca (Kelp) Extract

Laminaria Ochroleuca (Kelp) Extract

A type of kelp that helps soothe skin and offers hydration-enhancing properties, it can also play a role in reinforcing skin’s barrier and warding off environmental stressors. Researchers note that this ingredient is particularly useful for those prone to sensitive skin. It is in the class of Algae Extract which also include ahnfeltia concinna extract, alaria esculenta extract, algae exopolysaccharides, algin, alteromonas ferment extract, alteromonas ferment extract, ascophyllum nodosum extract, asparagopsis armata extract, chlorella protothecoides, chlorella vulgaris extract, dunaliella salina (green algae) extract, hydrolyzed f-fucoidan, macrocystis pyrifera (kelp) extract, and marine extract.

L-Ascorbic Acid

L-Ascorbic Acid

Part of the Vitamin C family of ingredients, L-ascorbic acid is Vitamin C in its purest form, and the active form required by the body to result in the many skin skin benefits of Vitamin C. The issue with L-ascorbic acid is in the delivery, as it is very unstable in water, and needs a pH 4 or below for it to penetrate the skin. That being said, when it can be stabilised in a formula and is able to penetrate the skin, it provides the highest potency of any form of Vitamin C currently available. Vitamin C can also be found on ingredients lists as ascorbic acid, ascorbyl glucoside, ascorbyl palmitate, ethyl ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate and tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate.

L-Carnitine

Carnitine is a naturally occurring amino acid derivative found in the body. In skincare, L-Carnitine is used for its potential skin-soothing, antioxidant, and revitalizing properties.

Lecithin

Lecithin

Lecithin can be classed as a phospholipid, which occurs naturally in eggs, soybean, sunflower oil and corn. It contains a high concentration of fatty acids, which support the skin’s natural barrier by creating a lipid film to prevent transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Lecithin also has lipophilic & hydrophilic properties, meaning it can function as an emulsifier and skin penetration-enhancer, helping to deliver actives deeper into the skin. Lecithin is in the class of essential lipids, and can be found on ingredient lists as caprooyl phytosphingosine, caprooyl sphingosine, cholesterol, glycolipids, glycoproteins, glycosphingolipids, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, phospholipids and phytosphingosine.

Leucine

Leucine

Leucine is an amino acid that has anti-aging properties. It is used in anti-aging skin care products and is thought to help regenerate aging skin and reduce fine lines and sagging skin. It is said to create firmer, more supple skin and increase elasticity by repairing aging skin tissue. Amino acids are a class of ingredients. They can also be found on ingredients lists as acetyl glucosamine,acetyl tyrosinamide, alanine, arginine hcl, arginine pca, histidine, isoleucine, lysine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine and valine and yeast amino acids.

Licochalcone A

Licochalcone A is a naturally occurring compound found in the root extract of the licorice plant (Glycyrrhiza glabra). It is used in skincare for its potential anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and skin-soothing properties.

Licorice Extract

Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract

It has been shown to prevent and reverse UV-induced skin damage, to provide visible skin-lightening properties to the skin. Its second active component, glycyrrhetinic acid is used in skincare for its anti-inflammatory benefits. It works by inhibiting the production of inflammatory substances, such as cortisone, within the body, with some research showing results to be comparable to prescription hydrocortisone cream. Licorice is a family of ingredients and can also be known as ammonium glycyrrhizate, dipotassium glycyrrhizate (licorice), glycyrrhetinic acid, glycyrrhiza glabra (licorice) root extract, glycyrrhiza glabra root extract or glycyrrhiza inflata root extract.

Lily Extract

Lilium Candidum Flower Extract

Lily extract is derived from various species of lilies, particularly Lilium candidum (also known as Madonna lily) or Lilium longiflorum. In skincare, lily extract is used for its potential skin-soothing, moisturizing, and brightening properties.

Linoleic Acid

Linoleic Acid

Linoleic Acid is an Omega 6 essential fatty acid (EFA), found in many plant oils: corn, safflower & sunflower. Linoleic acid forms the fatty acid based of Ceramides EOH, EOS and EOP, which are essential for the normal functioning of the skin barrier. Applying linoleic acid topically helps to support ceramide functioning within the skin, leading to improved skin hydration and smoothness. Research also shows that sebum in acne-prone skin can be lacking in Omega 6 (with too much Omega 3), so there is evidence to suggest applying this topically can help to balance the sebum composition and in turn reduce acne lesions. Linoleic Acid is in the class of essential lipids, and can be found on ingredient lists as caprooyl phytosphingosine, caprooyl sphingosine, cholesterol, glycolipids, glycoproteins, glycosphingolipids, Lecithin, linolenic acid, phospholipids and phytosphingosine.