Sesderma

Renude

blackheads

blemishes

dull skin

enlarged pores

pigmentation

redness

This lightweight moisturising gel is great for skin prone to acne or rosacea. It contains azelaic acid, alongside tranexamic acid to target hyperpigmentation, niacinamide to regulate sebum and support the natural skin barrier, and vitamins b5 and e to provide antioxidant protection to the skin.

Azelaic acid is found naturally in grains such as barley, wheat and rye, but can also be produced commercially in the lab. It has several benefits in skincare including as an anti-inflammatory, with evidence showing great results in treating rosacea symptoms (swelling & redness) via this mechanism.

Azelaic also has an anti-blemish activity - firstly, it is an antibacterial which works to kill acne-causing bacteria, P.Acnes. Secondly, it prevents pores becoming blocked by the skin’s natural shedding process, which makes it harder for this bacteria to populate inside the pore to cause a blemish (it needs an oxygen-free environment to thrive).

Studies have also shown azelaic acid to inhibit melanogenesis (production of melanin), so also has benefits in treating hyperpigmentation and post-inflammatory acne scarring. It has good skin tolerability, so can be used to treat more sensitive skin types in concentrations of around 10%.

azelaic acid

Hyaluronic acid is a polysaccharide which occurs naturally in the body. Hyaluronic acid works as an extremely powerful humectant, able to attract 1000x its own weight in water, to immediately plump and hydrate the area it is applied to. The body’s own production of hyaluronic acid slows with age, so supplementing this ingredient in topical formulations helps to support the skin’s natural moisture-binding, anti-ageing mechanisms.

hyaluronic acid

Niacinamide, also known as Vitamin B3 and Nicotinamide, has many skincare benefits. Firstly, it regulates sebum production in the skin, which in turn reduces blemishes and visible pore size. It also reduces facial redness by improving microcirculation, which means moving the blood inside the capillaries away from the face to reduce visible redness. It also has the ability to strengthen the natural lipid barrier of the skin by encouraging ceramide production (the building blocks which seal our skin cells together), which in turn increases the hydration within the epidermis. Lastly, niacinamide works to help reduce hyperpigmentation by blocking melanin from being deposited on the skin cells.

niacinamide

Panthenol is a form of Vitamin B5, which is converted into Pantothenic acid within the epidermis when applied topically. Its main benefit in cosmetics is as a humectant, meaning it can draw water molecules to it, hydrating and plumping the area it has been applied to.

Panthenol also supports the natural lipid barrier of the skin, by encouraging the production of a precursor to fatty acids & sphingolipids, both of which are essential parts of the skin barrier. This mechanism helps to moisturise the skin by reducing trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), therefore retaining more moisture within the skin. This also helps to reduce inflammation in dry or broken skin, as an intact skin barrier will prevent potential irritants from getting into the epidermis.

panthenol

Vitamin B5 is as a humectant, meaning it can draw water molecules to it, hydrating and plumping the area it has been applied to. It also supports the natural lipid barrier of the skin, by encouraging the production of a precursor to fatty acids & sphingolipids, both of which are essential parts of the skin barrier. This mechanism helps to moisturise the skin by reducing trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), therefore retaining more moisture within the skin. This also helps to reduce inflammation in dry or broken skin, as an intact skin barrier will prevent potential irritants from getting into the epidermis.

Phytosphingosine (PS) is a lipid which naturally occurs in the stratum corneum (the top, visible layer of our epidermis). This acts as a precursor for ceramide synthesis, meaning it encourages the skin to produce ceramides naturally.

Studies have also shown PS to offer anti-acne benefits, it is believed by reinforcing the protective barrier, and therefore reducing specific abnormalities in the skin functioning that lead to acne (invading inflammatory bacteria, increased keratinization, increased sebaceous gland activity).

phytosphingosine

Our outer layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, has a multilamellar structure (essentially a fine membrane), made up of lipids (fats), to form a non-permeable barrier. This keeps water inside the skin, and acts as the first defense against external aggressors. The lipids which make up the majority of this are known as ceramides, which are produced naturally in the body from a range of other naturally-occurring lipids, which we class here as essential lipids (not the same as essential fatty acids, which are deemed ‘essential’ as the body cannot produce these naturally.) Using these lipids in skincare helps to support the natural skin barrier, preventing water-loss to keep skin hydrated and balanced.

Vitamin A derivative. It is broken down in the body to retinol, and then into retinaldehyde, then again into retinoic acid, the active form recognised by the body to trigger it’s skin benefits.

retinyl palmitate

Vitamin A, aka Retinol, is one of the most well-researched actives used in skincare today. Retinol and all of its derivatives are broken down within the skin first into retinaldehyde, then into retinoic acid, the active form recognised by the body to trigger it’s skin benefits.

Retinoic acid (aka tretinoin) is the gold standard of anti-ageing and works in a number of ways. Firstly, it blocks the production of collagen-degrading enzymes, meaning collagen does not get broken down as quickly in the skin. After prolonged use (6M+), it has also been shown to stimulate the production of type I and type III collagen, reducing wrinkles and improving skin firmness. It has been shown to protect against UV-induced damage, as well as reducing the appearance of hyperpigmentation in the skin. Skin treated with retinoids is smoother, more even-toned, firmer and younger looking.

silybum marianum (milk thistle) fruit extract

Milk thistle extract is used in skincare for it’s soothing and skin-restoring abilities, as well as its antioxidant abilities.

Tocopherol, aka Vitamin E, is a fat-soluble Vitamin contained in many plant oils, or can also be produced synthetically. Vitamin E is found naturally in our own skin, and it’s main benefit is to offer powerful antioxidant protection against pollution and free radical damage. It also helps to support our skin’s natural lipid barrier, which in turn improves the hydration levels within the epidermis, as water loss through the skin is minimised.

tocopherol

Vitamin E is a fat-soluble Vitamin contained in many plant oils, or can also be produced synthetically. Vitamin E is found naturally in our own skin, and it’s main benefit is to offer powerful antioxidant protection against pollution and free radical damage. It also helps to support our skin’s natural lipid barrier, which in turn improves the hydration levels within the epidermis, as water loss through the skin is minimised.

Tranexamic acid is a synthetic derivative of the amino acid lysine, which is used in skincare to treat hyperpigmentation & post-inflammatory acne scarring. Studies have shown this to be as effective as the gold standard prescription ingredient hydroquinone, without any of the associated irritation, based on a panel with medium-toned skin (50 women of Iranian descent). It is believed to work by suppressing some of the mechanisms in the skin, which lead to the production of excess melanin.

tranexamic acid

Hydrating gel, light and of excellent tolerance due to its pH 5.5. Azeloglicina combines the properties of azelac acid and moisturizing action of glycine. It has a calming and anti-radical action, fights redness and impurities that accompanies couperosis. Sebumregulator action, decreasing the secretion of sebum and helps to diminish pimples. Inhibits the synthesis of tyrosine, homogenizing the skin color. Increases skin hydration and elasticity. The phytosphingosine natural skin lipid and part in the constitution of most of the ceramides. It has a natural action that reduces irritation. The Silybum marianum has a calming, soothing and antioxidant effect, camouflaging the redness of the skin prone to couperosis.

These formulas contain a high concentration of azelaic acid, which has proven effectiveness in treating redness, blemishes and hyperpigmentation.

Azelaic acid treatment picks

This 10% Azelaic acid booster is combined with salicylic acid to support breakout prone skin. The formula is a creamy texture, which absorbs instantly without dry out the skin.

This milky serum contains15% azelaic acid, in combination with salicylic acid, zinc and niacinamide. These ingredients work in combination to reduce inflammation, regulate oil production and provide antibacterial action to redness blemishes and post-inflammatory marks.

This lightweight moisturising gel contains azelaic acid, alongside tranexamic acid to target hyperpigmentation, niacinamide to regulate sebum and support the natural skin barrier, and vitamins b5 and e to provide antioxidant protection to the skin.

This water-based serum uses 12% of a derivative of azelaic acid known as Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate rather than the active itself (as it's notoriously difficult to formulate with and get a killer texture). This derivative delivers all the amazing benefits of azelaic acid as well as hydrating the skin, so this is a fantastic product for the price.

This creamy serum formula contains azelaic acid which acts as an antibacterial and anti-inflammatory to calm breakouts. Zinc PCA helps to regulate oil production while natural plant extracts provide antioxidant protection.

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